在段子中品味杭州

林琳

最近，華云文化與浙江工商大學(xué)出版社聯(lián)合推出一部《杭州有意思》。說起來，這書還真有點意思。近300個段子，從南宋古城遺跡侃到眼下風(fēng)起云涌的互聯(lián)網(wǎng)電商，從百歲老人王桂花的名字探究到杭州市花的由來，從小小街頭面館到方言“好漢不賺六月鈿”的解讀，從荷花初綻登上報紙頭條到幾個曝料人引發(fā)的一場暗戰(zhàn)……與杭州有關(guān)的林林總總，八卦小日子還是風(fēng)雅趣事兒，都能在書里找到。不夸張地說，就是一部關(guān)于杭州的“段子體”生活百科。

有的段子雖然只有寥寥幾筆，看似漫不經(jīng)心，卻又直擊命門，讓你立馬升騰起一股被說到點子上的認(rèn)同感。讀著讀著，又仿佛被撓了癢癢一樣，不小心偷偷笑出聲。

那么，我們就選取《杭州有意思》里的一些段子，一起來品味杭州吧。

理所應(yīng)當(dāng)與剛剛好

夏天，“理所應(yīng)當(dāng)”的熱。

冬天，“理所應(yīng)當(dāng)”的冷。

春天和秋天，“理所應(yīng)當(dāng)”的美不勝收。

當(dāng)然還有“理所應(yīng)當(dāng)”的堵車，“理所應(yīng)當(dāng)”的高房價，“理所應(yīng)當(dāng)”的搖不到車牌號，“理所應(yīng)當(dāng)”的排隊吃飯……

所有大城市的“理所應(yīng)當(dāng)”，杭州“理所應(yīng)當(dāng)”也擁有。

可是相比其他城市，杭州是“理所應(yīng)當(dāng)”得剛剛好。

半城山水，滿湖煙雨，剛剛好。

堵車時轉(zhuǎn)頭看見街心花園的郁金香，剛剛好。

城市越來越大，卻又沒那么大，剛剛好。

腳步越來越忙，卻能一走就走到西湖邊，剛剛好。

事情越來越多，但還能容下幾間二十四小時的書店，剛剛好。

人行橫道線剛剛好。

西湖剛剛好。

你和我的愛，剛剛好。

我的城，剛剛好。

倒扣香爐與三潭印月

西湖里最為著名的標(biāo)志性建筑，當(dāng)然是三潭印月的那三座小石塔。

我小時候看過一本《西湖民間故事》，這本流傳甚廣的民間傳說故事集里講，西湖上矗立的這三座小石塔，其實和魯班有關(guān)……

說是魯班帶著妹妹來到杭州，結(jié)果西湖里一個黑魚精看中了魯小妹，要搶走去壓艙，不然就興風(fēng)作浪為害人間。魯班帶著徒弟在寶石山上鑿了一個大香爐，把黑魚精倒扣在西湖里，救了全杭州的人。香爐的三只腳，就成了三潭印月這道美麗的風(fēng)景……

還有另一個版本，也是黑魚精作亂，這里是觀音娘娘用個大香爐扣住了黑魚精。

總之，民間傳說，這三座塔就是一只倒扣香爐的三只腳！香爐下面就是一個黑魚精！

這只香爐該有多大啊……而更有意思的是，這三座塔在湖面上形成一個正三角形，塔與塔之間相距約62米。

可以?！傲边@個數(shù)字，非常杭州。

三潭印月的三座塔大名鼎鼎，但很多人不知道的是，看起來渾然一體的塔，其實是像積木一樣搭起來的：從下往上依次包括塔基、塔身、寶蓋、六邊小亭、小寶蓋。它們都是靠重量保持穩(wěn)固，只有葫蘆狀寶頂用榫卯結(jié)構(gòu)——通過榫卯，寶頂與上層塔檐牢牢相連。這葫蘆寶頂有一個有意的傾斜，大約一度，是為了讓塔頂更牢固。

四百年過去了，石塔們還好好地站在湖面上。不過，最近三十年，數(shù)得出來的，這塔就倒過三次。還有杭州市民說，20世紀(jì)70年代，他在塔邊上拍照片，就把石塔的葫蘆頂?shù)畔聛磉^……最近一次，則是2013年，有一艘游船撞倒了其中一座石塔，塔基以上全部落入水中。2013年，信息傳播手段已經(jīng)相當(dāng)發(fā)達(dá)，全城人民都關(guān)注了事件的進展，有整整一周的新聞主角都是它。

這次搶修花了整個通宵——把倒下的部件從水里撈出來，原樣搭回去了，一點看不出來被撞倒過。

關(guān)于西湖第一朵荷花的“暗戰(zhàn)”

杭州的夏天，荷花是當(dāng)之無愧的主角。

2005年第一朵荷花開的時候，筆者供職的《都市快報》做了一篇醒目的頭條稿子。正好著名報告文學(xué)作家陳祖芬也在杭州，看到了這篇稿子，很激動。后來，她在著作《杭州的現(xiàn)代童話》一書里專門寫了這件事，說：“不知道還有哪個城市會這樣，把荷花初綻列為頭條新聞？杭州會。這種對美的希冀和對美的體會！”

從這一年開始，杭州第一朵荷花開放就成了一件盛事。2006年，《都市快報》還為當(dāng)年這朵荷花建了一個博客，每天拍一張照片，給大家下載當(dāng)桌面。后來，干脆設(shè)立了一個攝影比賽，叫“西湖荷賽”，參加者甚眾，搞得初夏時分，小荷才露尖尖角，西湖邊就擠滿了長槍短炮——嗯，當(dāng)然，西湖邊啥時候不擠滿長槍短炮呢？

這每年的第一朵荷花，多半開在西泠橋附近，早兩年，都是杭州市民周大伯發(fā)現(xiàn)，然后向所有媒體報料的。有位馮先生就不服氣了，為什么不是他第一個發(fā)現(xiàn)呢？2007年初夏的時候，馮先生下了一個決定，買通西湖邊的保安，第一朵荷花開的時候立刻給他打電話，他要做那一年的荷花代言人！結(jié)果保安笑瞇瞇地說：周大伯老早來約過啦，你遲了。

馮先生一生氣，打電話給媒體報料，報料內(nèi)容是“關(guān)于西湖邊第一朵荷花的暗戰(zhàn)故事”。

這一天，是2007年5月15日。5月18日早上6點，有人報料西湖邊第一朵荷花開啦。報料人既不是馮先生，也不是周大伯，而是一位天天在西湖邊散步的任叔叔。

一句話證明你是老杭州

“我去虎跑泉打過泉水。”

沒錯，即便是我，都沒有在杭州干過這件事。這是真正的老杭州才會做的事：黎明即起，帶著礦泉水桶坐公交車到虎跑泉去打水。畢竟，只有喝過用虎跑泉水泡的龍井茶，才算真正地喝過龍井。

這不是一件輕松的活計，在虎跑泉的取水口，有時候光排隊就要排四五個小時，可見中國人為了喝一口好茶能有多拼。像《紅樓夢》里的妙玉肯定是不愿意和大伯大媽們擠起來排隊取水的，所以她只好另辟蹊徑，收一點梅花瓣上的雪水了，也難怪這么珍惜，要把水埋在梅花樹下。

去虎跑泉取水的大伯大媽們要豪邁得多，水桶都盡可能帶多帶大，即便排很長的隊，也不吵不鬧。對他們來說，這就是他們的社交現(xiàn)場，話題就像取之不盡的虎跑泉水，生生不息，又不緊不慢。

虎跑泉水到底有多甘洌？誰喝誰知道。

不斷的斷橋與網(wǎng)紅西泠橋

白娘子是西湖永遠(yuǎn)的代言人。

她太紅了，以至于西湖邊出現(xiàn)了一種新的周邊商品：里面嵌著白娘子畫像的棒棒糖。這款棒棒糖叫“解救白娘子”，要把白娘子解救出來，只能吃完糖啦。

這種糖賣得很好。大家很樂意解救一下白娘子。

同樣賣得很好的還有那種小綢傘，應(yīng)該也是托了白娘子的福，她和許仙有一個斷橋相會送傘還傘的故事嘛。

說到斷橋，很多外地游客想知道為啥它叫斷橋，明明不斷??！

“斷橋不斷，長橋不長”本來就是關(guān)于西湖的一句老話啊。西湖十景之一的“斷橋殘雪”，名氣大歸大，其實大家也沒怎么看見過。夏天的時候，斷橋邊的荷花倒是開得特別美。

作為西湖著名的地標(biāo)之一，假日里，斷橋上全部都是“人人人人人人人人人”。

這里早就不許通車了，據(jù)說是因為實在不能再承受車子的壓力，怕真的會斷。

西泠橋之所以那么紅，主要是因為它的地理位置絕佳。

南宋周密在《武林舊事》中是這么給大家規(guī)劃“一日游”路線的：“若游之次第，則先南而后北，至午則盡入西泠橋里湖，其外幾無一舸矣。弁陽老人有詞云：‘看畫船盡入西泠，閑卻半湖春色。蓋紀(jì)實也?！蹦憧?，這里被點名提到的就是西泠橋。周密還特別指出，午后，西湖上的船都通過西泠橋進到北里湖了。

說起來，也只有在北里湖，才能看見西泠橋橋身上的三個字——“西泠橋”。這三個字刻在橋身上，不是很明顯，所以不太有人留意。

據(jù)說很多年前，這三個字里面是填過顏色的，但沒人說得出是啥顏色。為了讓游人能注意到這三個字（“打卡”的時候至少能一目了然?。?，2019年，西湖景區(qū)打算給這三個字填色。

填色之前，先在報紙上請杭州市民海選填什么色。大家給了很多意見：青荷色，顯然是要搭荷花;落霞紅，因為西泠橋為看落霞絕佳之處;選正紅的也不少，覺得像“孤山”（正紅）那樣也很大氣。

最后填的那個色，是石青色。

石青色的西泠橋，在等你來。

“刷”西湖與“西湖玫瑰跑”

杭州史上有好幾任相當(dāng)有名的父母官，最有名的莫過于蘇東坡和白居易。

西湖上最有名的兩道“風(fēng)景線”，一道是蘇堤，一道是白堤，正與這兩位父母官有關(guān)。不過，成因倒有不同。

蘇堤踏踏實實的，是蘇東坡在杭州任知州時，疏浚西湖，利用湖底的淤泥構(gòu)筑，再經(jīng)歷歲月演變而成的。杭州人為了紀(jì)念蘇東坡，把它命名為蘇堤。“蘇堤春曉”在南宋時就已經(jīng)是西湖十景之首了。到了元代，這“六橋煙柳”被列入錢塘十景，可見人們是有多喜愛它。

而白堤則是早在唐朝時，為了蓄湖水灌溉農(nóng)田興建的，后世人們以為這是白居易主持修筑的，就稱它為白堤。其實不是啦，白居易在杭州主持工作時，倒是在舊日錢塘門外的石涵橋附近修了一條堤，叫白公堤，現(xiàn)在已經(jīng)不存在了。

不過無論如何，人們還是愿意把這兩條堤，分別與蘇東坡和白居易聯(lián)系在一起。西湖啊，本來就是由詩詞蕩漾而成的啊。

西湖作為著名景點，一般人都會覺得湖邊圍滿了外地人，而本地人應(yīng)該不太去湖邊。

其實不然。一方面，西湖就在市中心，本地人辦個事很可能會經(jīng)過西湖;另一方面，很多人早些年可能還覺得去湖邊算是一件事，這幾年，運動風(fēng)氣盛行，整條蘇堤半條白堤都禁止機動車出入，“刷”西湖漸漸成為一種時尚。

很多資料上都寫，西湖周長約為15000米。其實是不到的?！八ⅰ蔽骱慕?jīng)典線路，從西湖天地這里出發(fā)，過長橋，經(jīng)雷峰塔，再拐入蘇堤，一路疾行，翻過六座橋，經(jīng)過晚上就會歌舞升平的“印象·西湖”現(xiàn)場，再右轉(zhuǎn)走過一小段湖邊，經(jīng)過偶有人憑吊的蘇小小墓，翻西泠橋，沿白堤一路賞景到斷橋，再沿著湖邊走，運氣好可能會碰到音樂噴泉，集賢亭也值得駐足略觀，最后回到西湖天地，這一圈，是10700米。如果走大圈，不從蘇堤穿過西湖，而是繞去楊公堤，我走過一次，超過13000米。這兩個圈的長度，無論是跑步還是走路，都是剛剛好，能出一身汗，又不至于太累。

這幾年，還流行用運動軟件畫步行軌跡圖，西湖的形狀加上里面兩條堤，看起來剛好像一朵含苞待放的玫瑰花。這下好了，每年情人節(jié)都有很多人進行“西湖玫瑰跑”，從虎跑出發(fā)，一張圖跑完，差不多23000米。用一個半馬的距離證明愛情，這波操作，也是很杭州了。

Interesting Little Facts about Hangzhou

By Lin Lin

Hangzhou is a fascinating city and many people have their ways to relate what they know about the city. I have just published a book about interesting little facts about Hangzhou where I was born and raised. The book is full of interesting facts and stories and my personal impressions and comments， which may sound a little bit subjective. Certainly this book is an account of my perspectives. I am aware that other peoples perspectives may differ and be equally interesting and their collections of interesting little facts and impressions and comments may differ too. Thats all right.

The following is a brief report of some interesting little facts and anecdotes， my impressions and comments， all in one.

It can be taken for granted that summer days of Hangzhou are insanely hot and winter days of Hangzhou are uncomfortably chilly. Spring and autumn offer a huge kaleidoscope of beautiful days and nights. This can also be taken for granted. There are many such things that can be taken for granted in Hangzhou： traffic jams， exorbitant property prices， hard-to-get car plates， long lines in front of restaurants. But the city just gets a lot of things right： it is just right to see half of the city are a huge garden of mountains and rivers and the lake where rains and mists often give an additional touch to your heart and soul; it is just right when you are in a traffic jam and then you turn your head and see tulips blooming in a street park; the urban sprawl never stops but you feel the citys size is just right; you always run a tight work schedule and then you can always find time to goof around the West Lake because the lake seems just a stones throw away; even if you just cant find time to get all the things done fast enough， the city has some 24/7 bookshops where you can hang out leisurely; it makes people feel all right when cars and buses stop for you to walk on the zebra lines and cross the street; you feel you are blessed to have the West Lake near you; and you even feel its the city that makes love occur at the right time and in the right place and in the right way. And many residents in Hangzhou feel that the city is exactly what a city should be. The city is perfect.

Photographing the first lotus flower on the West Lake has been a war for professional and amateur photographers since 2005. City Express， a local newspaper in Hangzhou， made a headline of the first lotus flower blooming on the West Lake in 2005. Since then， photographers have vied each other in shooting the best photo of lotus flowers. In 2006， City Express launched a blog which uploaded one lotus flower photo a day. The photos were so good in quality that they could be downloaded and installed as screensavers in a computer. Then the daily newspaper launched a photography competition for best lotus flower photos. Nowadays， in early summers， take a stroll around the West Lake and you can see a lot of cameras around lotus habitats. But again， when do you not see photographers everywhere around the lake？

In 2005 and 2006， a man named Zhou phoned City Express and reported the first lotus flower he had just spotted. The first lotus flower on the West Lake in these two years bloomed near the Xinling Bridge. In 2007， a resident surnamed Feng decided to be the one that year to spot the first lotus flower on the West Lake. So he tried to bribe a security guard whose workplace was near the bridge， asking the guy to tip him first. The security man grinned and told Mr. Feng that Mr. Zhou had already asked him for the tip. Enraged by the fact that he didnt get the privilege of knowing it first from the security guard， Feng phoned the newspaper on May 15， 2007 and ratted Mr. Zhou out for his “underhand” arrangement， saying it was a secret war about the first lotus flower.

At six oclock on the morning of May 18， someone called the newspaper reporting he had just spotted the first lotus flower. It wasnt Mr. Zhou. It wasnt Mr. Feng. It was a middle-aged man surnamed Ren who took a stroll around the West Lake every morning！

Say one thing you have done in Hangzhou to prove you know Hangzhou well enough. I think this one tops all other arguments： I fetched water home from Tiger-Running Spring. A lot of natives of Hangzhou have never ever done that， though so many local residents know about this crazy yearning of fetching water from the spring and making a cup of tea. Most that have done this crazy thing are probably old-generation Hangzhou natives. Back then， one got up early， carried some plastic gallon pails， and took a bus to the Tiger-Running Spring. Some people still go all the way to fetch water nowadays. As there were so many people waiting in a queue for getting water dripping out of rocks， there was usually a long line and people stood for four or five hours until it was their turn. They didnt make big noises. For many people standing in line， it was their socializing moment. They were quiet and enjoyed chatting with their neighbors in the long queue. For some people in Hangzhou， your cup of Dragon Well Tea isnt all right if it is not made with the water from Tiger-Running Spring.

Xiling Bridge that connects the North Hill Street with Solitary Hill has its name carved on the bridge. But most people dont notice the name. It is said that the three characters were once painted， but nobody remembered exactly what the color was. In 2019， the government department in charge of the West Lake affairs planned to have the characters colored again. A questionnaire was placed in City Express to solicit opinions. Opinions differed. Many wanted to be as green as lotus leaves so that the three characters could go nice with the lotus leaves on both sides of the bridge. Many wanted the three characters to be red， as red as the color for the name of Solitary Hill carved on a stone monument. The color chosen was a kind of mineral blue.