越南蓮花纖維絲綢原料及織造技術(shù)研究

杜凱麗

摘要：Phung Xa絲綢村（越南河內(nèi)市）開(kāi)發(fā)了一種新型獨(dú)特的天然真絲面料蓮花絲綢。蓮花絲綢是一種高檔材料，含有當(dāng)?shù)厝嗣駤故旒夹g(shù)和從蓮花莖中提取的纖維。2000年以來(lái)，生物燃料和環(huán)保紡織產(chǎn)品的需求不斷增加，絲綢業(yè)成為越南主導(dǎo)產(chǎn)品之一，且是高附加值產(chǎn)品，為越南的GDP和國(guó)民經(jīng)濟(jì)做出了積極貢獻(xiàn)。通過(guò)文獻(xiàn)資料和實(shí)際研究，文章介紹和分析了蓮花絲綢發(fā)展的織造技術(shù)及其優(yōu)良品質(zhì)，如光澤自然、對(duì)染料有親和力、色彩鮮艷、吸收能力高和質(zhì)量輕。此外，還提出了蓮花絲綢在紡織和時(shí)裝業(yè)中作為優(yōu)質(zhì)面料的一些應(yīng)用。

關(guān)鍵詞：越南絲綢：Phung Xa絲綢村；蓮花絲綢：蓮花莖；蓮稈；蓮花纖維

中圖分類(lèi)號(hào)：TS145.3? ?文獻(xiàn)標(biāo)志碼：A? ?文章編號(hào)：1001-7003( 2019) 09-0043-07

引用頁(yè)碼：091107

Generally speaking, the silk industry has been pla-ying an important and meaninqul role in many aspectsof Vietnam society including economy, trade, export-import and culture. As one of the leading major of na-tional economy, silk industry brings income for thou-sands of traders and farmers, especially in the sericul-ture zones and silk villages [1] The benefit and profitcreated by silk manufacture and business is significant.In the context of global trade development , silk and tex-tile also makes the valuable foreign currency income[2] .Silk industry helps rural economic restructuring of Viet-nam move towards industrialization and modemization,reduces the proportion of agriculture and increases theproportion of services and handicrafts [3] .

In the context of modem textile, the environmen-tal-friendly and biodegradable fabric have been substan-tially appreciated [4-5] This topic has recently got theattention and interest of a number of researchers. Lotussilk is a special kind of fabric with the fiber extractedfrom lotus stem and lotus root. Usually, after the har-vest, a significant amount of lotus stem is wasted in thelake. These residues could provide abundant naturalcellulose resources which can be used in the textile , pa-per, medical and construction industries [6-7] . Lotus fi-ber is a new kind of natural fiber and features, com-pared to other traditional natural fibers, significant ad-vantages, including simple cultivation techniques, lowcosts, and abundant resources[8]. With the develop-ment of textile industry , lotus fabric is being studied anddeveloped to produce the materials with high quality.

Vietnam lotus silk is created and developed inPhung Xa Silk Village , a sericulture zone which is loca-ted 40 kilometers far from the center of Ha Noi City.With the soft features and comfortable to wear, time-consuming material treatments from lotus stems, lotussilk is appreciated to be a new high-class silk fabric ofVietnam. Until present time, there is a lack of reseachabout lotus silk , partly according to the new appearancein textile market of this silk fabric. Some informative ar-ticles could be listed as A Research of Situation of SilkVillages in Ha Noi City by Prof. Nguyen Ngoc Lan - Ha-noi University of Science and Technology, SoILLtion forPreservation and Development of Silk in Nam Dinh byDr. Nguyen Van Luu-Hanoi University of Culture.However, the content of these articles focuses on theculture aspect only. On the basis of documents, datacollection and practical research, this article providesan overall knowledge about the material, weaving tech-nology and also recommends some applications of lotussilk in the modem textiles.

1 Introduction

1.1Phung Xa絲綢村的發(fā)展過(guò)程

1.1Development of Phung Xa Silk Village

Located in My Duc District, 40 kilometers from thecenter of Ha Noi Capital, Phung Xa Silk Village was es-tablished since 1929 and has been developed by thepassing of history until present. Prior to the AugustRevolution of Vietnam in 1945 , Phung Xa Silk Villagewas operated in the form of individual and self-producedunits in a cooperative society with low quantity of silkfabric , satin and cotton face towels for export to the for-mer Soviet Union. During this period, according to therudimentary manufacture machines and scarce raw mate-rials, there was no variety of silk and textile productscreated by farmers in Phung Xa Silk Village [9] .

In 1992 , the cooperative society in Phung Xa wasdissolved due to the inability to adapt to the new mecha-nism. However, farmers and artisans here with passionand great effort for silk craft, they made the self-explo-ration and investment for textile machinery and raw ma-terials in order to maintain the traditional profession andcater the demands of consumers [10] . The towel productsof the village were appreciated by customers in pattemdesign, style and high quality.

Since 2011 until present is the sharp developmentperiod of Phung Xa Silk Village. In the whole area,there are 54 limited liability companies , 28 private firmswith 2550 weaving machines, meanwhile there are 472automatic equipments, the remaining are handicraftlooms [11]. According to the quantity and quality ofsilk, products of Phung Xa Silk Village has been popu-lar in not only domestic market of Vietnam , but also forexport to Taiwan, the United States, Czech Republicand Korea.

1.2Effect of Vietnam textile market on lotus silk

In 2017 , the textile industry of Vietnam made prof-it of 31 billion USD from export, a year-on-year in-crease of over 10% . This growth momentum will in-crease continuously in the next few years, with exportrate predicted to reach 34-36 billion USD in the end of2018, and 50 billion USD by 2020. Meanwhile the silkmanufacture accounts for the majority of fabric business ,at 46% [12] .

The growth of silk textile industry of Vietnam is notonly appreciated in export, but also in the domesticmarket, which has seen a year-on-year growth of 10%in 2017.

Vietnam is the sixth leading silk producing countryin the world, producing approximately 450 metric tonsof silk in 2015. Vietnam produces significantly less silkthan the world ' s leading silk producing countries , Chi-na , which produced approximately 170. 000 metric tonsof silk in 2015 , and the second leading country , India,which produced more than 28. 000 metric tons [13] . Themain and important consuming sources of Vietnam silkmarket is for export, with the prior countries includingEurope, America, Korea, China, Japan... The exportrate of Vietnam silk products is presented as Fig. 1( Source: General Statistics Office of Vietnam) .

The effective export of Vietnam silk products is aconsiderable chance for the development and productionof lotus silk which is able to ensure the stable outputconsumption, long-term careers for workers as well asthe positive contribution to the textile market of Viet-nam.

2 蓮花絲綢原料及織制造工藝分析

2 Analysis of raw material and weavingtechnology of lotus silk

2.1 蓮花絲綢的原料

2.1Raw material of lotus silk

Lotus is a popular kind of plant in South-East Asiaand it is the national flower of Vietnam. According tobiology science, lotus flower is a perennial aquaticplant, growing from roots under the mud in the ponds,lakes or rivers. Lotus leaves with the diameter from 20-60 cm has the superhydrophobic character which is ana-lyzed in textile industry [14-16] There are several ofsmall spines in the body (stem) of lotus [17]

As the lotus stems are collected from planting area,it is compulsory to wash the stems in clean water for twotimes to ensure that all the mud and thorns are totallyremoved.

Every stem of lotus provides about 30 small fiberswith the length of 3-4 cm. For a scarf with the length of1. 7 m and width of 0. 25 m, 4. 800 lotus stems are re-quired, which is equal to about 144. 000 fibers. Thepractical information collection as Phung Xa Silk Villageshows that every farmer can deal with 200-250 stems aday, equal t0 250-300 m of lotus fiber depend on thecondition of lotus such as freshness, flexibility andthickness ( Fig. 2) .

2.2 蓮花絲綢編織技術(shù)

2.2Weaving technology of lotus silk

Weaving process of lotus silk is considered as adifficult, time-consuming and complicated technologythat requires the ingenuity and sophistication of skill-ful workers. Accordingly, the lotus silk are requiredto provide the soft and gentle appearance but extreme-ly arrogant, with characteristic aroma. The weavingprocess of lotus silk could be analyzed in Tab. 1 asfollowed.

In order to optimize the work result , it is neccessa-ry for the artisan to classify the lotus. A lotus would bedivided int0 3 parts. The top part is young and soft,easy to crack and also provides a large quantity of fiber.The root is considered as slightly older and thicker thanthe top part, meanwhile the middle part is the oldestand also difficult to crack.

For taking out the lotus yarn, the artist uses a smallknife to cut around the stem, then twist and pull the yamsoftly by hand and thread the fiber into circle shape. Forthe top part of lotus, the artists cut about 3 centimeter totake out the fiber, meanwhile they cut 4-5 cm for the rootand middle part to make it easy to take out the yam ( Fig.3). This stage requires the in-dept skills of the workers.

Lotus silk is woven by the traditional loom of Vi-etnam ( Fig. 3) . Excess warp is stored and later re-leased during the weaving process. Traditional loomprovides the fabric with a width of approximately60. 96 cm ( 24 inches) . During the weaving durationtime, it is neccessary that the fibers are continuouslymoistened in clean water to make it cool. The fibersare very thin and delicate and should be woven within24 hours of being extracted in order to be safe fromdeterioration .

In order to create a scarf from lotus silk with thelength of l. 7 m and width of 0. 25 m, 4. 800 lotusstems are required, equal t0 2. 218 m of lotus fiber,working time needed is 90 hours of weaving the fibercontinuously. Lotus yam is extreruely thin , soft and eas-y to be broken into short pieces, therefore, there is therequirement of caring and high skill for the workers andprofessional weaving looms are also neccessary.

2.3 蓮花絲綢的特點(diǎn)

2.3Features of lotus silk

Vietnam lotus silk has its own special quality thatmake it become unique and attractive. It is consideredas a perfect combination of pure silk and linen fabricwhich is extremely soft and breathable , even though thesurface of lotus silk is rough and not as smooth as silk-worm-based silk fabric, it still provides a sponginessand light touching for users.

However, there is an advantage of lotus silk thanpure silk or linen , it is wrinkle resistant and stain resist-ant. According to aquatic habitat of natural plants , lotussilk is waterproof and quick drying when it gets wetwhile using.

Moreover, thanks to the natural aroma of lotusflower and stem, the initial fragrance of lotus fiber issustainably maintained after the weaving process. Lotusaroma from fabric provides the calming power for wear-ers , help decrease some common diseases such as head-ache, neck ache and some physical matters of throat,heart and lung.

3 蓮花絲綢的應(yīng)用

3Application in textile of lotus silk

According to its own appreciated quality, Vietnamlotus silk is able to be an environmental-friendly andbeautiful materials for textile and fashion industry, in-cluding elegant appearance, soft touching, smooth sur-face, natural fragrance and skillful weaving technology.However, nowadays, the application of lotus silk hasnot been popular yet, because of seasonal raw materialsof lotus stem and time-consuming manufacture.

The cooperation between artists of Phung Xa SilkVillage and native and intemational textile companies issuggested. With the high-quality properties includingwrinkle resistant and stain resistant, lotus silk can bedesigned for several products such as scarf , coat, robe ,wallet- These products are promised to contribute posi-tively to the profits of textile industry, create the stablecareers and income for farmers and silk artists, espe-cially in the rural areas of Vietnam.

The various design to enhance the value of outsideappearance of lotus silk is also recommended. In orderto be popular and easy to apply in fashion industry,some extra materials could be mixed with original lotusfabric such as embroidery pattems, hand painting,pearl . . .

Currently, there is no dyeing process applied forlotus silk , the original colors of fabric are maintained forfinished products, including yellow and light brown.According to the demands of consumers in textile andfashion market , it is possible for the original color of lo-tus silk fabric to be extremely simple and boring forwearers , especially the young generations of customersin urban areas. Therefore, environmental-friendly dye-ing process is suggested to apply for lotus silk. For in-stance, dyeing extract from green tea, carrot oil, coffeebean , persimmon fruit will not affect or change the mor-phology structure of surface and interface of lotus silk,which can ensure the stability of initial characteristics ofthe fabric.

4 結(jié)語(yǔ)

4 Conclusion

According to the research process , this article sum-marizes the manufacture and development of a new andspecial kind of silk fabric with the fibers extracted fromlotus stems , also introduces in detail about raw materialcollection, impurity removal, fiber extracting and wea-ving technology of lotus silk. The process of extractingthe lotus fibers from stems is deeply analyzed to expressthe difficult technology and time-consuming production.This also explains for the limited quantity of productsfrom lotus silk in textile market recently. Besides, thisarticle also suggests some ideal modifications and appli-cations of lotus silk to become a popular material of tex-tile and garment industry.

In the upcoming joumals , researcher looks forwardto doing ruore studies about the development and appli-cation of lotus silk, especially focusing on dyeingprocess and design for this material.

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