英國的服裝文化

文/艾布利斯·蓋爾 譯/蔣威

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British clothing culture is a central aspect of life in Britain.Fashion trends,weather, and social norms all shape the country’s modern clothing culture.British clothing categories mainly fall into loungewear, casual, smart-casual1smart casual又稱商務便裝，從字面意義上講可以理解為“體面的休閑風格”。比商務休閑裝（business casual）更為休閑，自由度也較大。, and formal wear.Loungewear is usually limited to indoors or popping2pop〈主英，非正式〉去。to the shops on a low-maintenance day.In contrast, formal wear like a suit is suitable for events like the races and weddings.

2We have curated3curate策劃組織（展覽、表演、音樂會等）。a helpful guide to British clothing culture.

英國的服裝文化是英國生活的一個核心部分。時尚潮流、天氣和社會規(guī)范都塑造了英國的現(xiàn)代服裝文化。英國服裝主要分為家居裝、休閑裝、半正式休閑裝和正裝。家居裝通常限于在室內(nèi)穿或沒有應酬的日子去商店購物時穿。相比之下，套裝等正裝則適合觀看賽馬和參加婚禮等活動時穿。

2我們編寫了一份關于英國服裝文化的實用指南。

Tweed jackets

3While commonly linked to British clothing culture, tweed originates from 18th century Scotland.

粗花呢夾克

3粗花呢雖常與英國服裝文化聯(lián)系在一起，但卻起源于18世紀的蘇格蘭。

4In the Outer Hebrides, the concept behind tweed was simply a protection against the harsh elements.However,word (and fabric) soon spread.By the 19th century, tweed was the height of fashion in British society.Tweed jackets were particularly favored for the sporting upper class and often worn for riding, hunting, and shooting.Later still,tweed spread across the British class spectrum—becoming an essential clothing item for farmers.

4在當時的外赫布里底群島，穿粗花呢只是為了抵御惡劣的氣候環(huán)境。但隨著有關這種穿法的消息不脛而走，粗花呢也很快為人所熟知。到19世紀，穿粗花呢已成為英國社會的頂級時尚。熱衷于運動的英國上流社會尤其青睞粗花呢夾克，常在騎馬、狩獵和射擊時穿。后來，粗花呢在英國各階層流行開來，成為農(nóng)民的基本服裝。

5Nowadays, tweed jackets are a versatile4versatile多種用途的，萬用的。item within British clothing culture.The jackets are worn by men and women alike and can fit several different clothing categories.Many farmers still wear tweed, especially at agricultural shows such as The Great Yorkshire Show.Similarly, some horse riders and sport shooters still choose to don5don穿戴上。a tweed jacket.

6However, the tweed jacket is also suitable for smart-casual events outside of sporting and agriculture.Whether on a night out, a fancy dinner, or even a wedding—tweed gets a large green tick for social acceptability.

5如今，粗花呢夾克已成為英國服裝文化中的一款百搭服飾，男女皆宜，且適合與數(shù)個不同的服裝類別搭配。許多農(nóng)民仍然會穿粗花呢，特別是在大約克郡展這樣的農(nóng)業(yè)展覽上。同樣，一些馬術騎手和射擊運動員仍然選擇穿粗花呢夾克。6但粗花呢夾克也適用于體育和農(nóng)業(yè)以外的半正式休閑活動。無論是晚間外出，還是去高檔餐廳，甚至是參加婚禮，穿粗花呢都合乎時宜。

Jeans

7Jeans are a controversial category choice within British clothing culture.Typically, you will see jeans in the casual and smart-casual clothing categories when in Britain.

牛仔褲

7牛仔褲是英國服裝文化中一個頗有爭議的類別選擇。通常情況下，在英國，牛仔褲屬于休閑裝和半正式休閑裝。

8Jeans originated in the USA back in the 19th century.The design is credited to a tailor named Davis, who sought patency from his fabric supplier, Levi Strauss.Nowadays, Levi’s remains one of the largest company icons in the clothing industry.

8牛仔褲起源于19世紀的美國，其設計要歸功于一位名叫戴維斯的裁縫。戴維斯從其面料供應商李維·斯特勞斯那里獲得了牛仔褲的專利權。如今，李維斯仍是服裝界最大的公司品牌之一。

9By the mid-20th century, jeans had crossed the Atlantic and grown in popularity within British clothing culture.And, now when visiting Britain, you’ll see jeans in supermarkets, fancy bars,and even in the workplace.

9到20世紀中葉，牛仔褲已跨過大西洋，在英國服裝文化中越來越受歡迎。如今，當你訪問英國時，在英國的超市、高級酒吧，甚至工作場所都能看到有人穿牛仔褲。

Leggings

10Leggings are typically regarded as somewhat of a guilty pleasure6guilty pleasure拿不出手的愛好。and worn mostly by women.While somewhat of a versatile item within British clothing culture, you can primarily expect leggings to fall under loungewear.Leggings are also popular within the sporting and fitness industry, with a matching sports bra and leggings a popular gym outfit in Britain.

11With that said, you can dress leggings up to fit the casual category.Pairing leggings with an oversized jumper and some trendy jewelry is a popular outfit look,especially in the Autumn months.Think of a takeaway coffee street style.

12Funnily enough, while women now favor leggings, it was military men they were designed for in 14th century Scotland.

緊身褲

10緊身褲多為女裝，通常被認為是一種穿起來舒服但看著不怎么講究的服裝。雖然在英國服裝文化中，緊身褲算得上是一種百搭服飾，但主要被歸為家居裝。緊身褲在體育和健身行業(yè)也很受歡迎。運動胸罩配緊身褲在英國是頗為流行的健身裝。

11盡管如此，緊身褲搭配一番也可以歸為休閑裝。緊身褲配大碼羊毛套衫和時尚珠寶便是一種流行的服裝造型，尤其是在秋季。可以腦補一下手捧外賣咖啡的街頭穿搭風。

12有趣的是，雖然緊身褲如今受女性青睞，但在14世紀的蘇格蘭卻是為士兵而設計的。

Trainers

運動鞋

13運動鞋在英國的流行趨勢時常出現(xiàn)波動。一度，可以說90%的英國女性都有一雙阿迪達斯Superstar運動鞋；自然，人們后來因為受夠了運動鞋不好配衣服，轉(zhuǎn)而迷上其他鞋款。

13Fashion trends for trainers fluctuate regularly in Britain.At one point, you could hazard7hazard大膽（猜測）；冒昧提出（建議）。a guess that 90% of the female British population owned a pair of Adidas Superstars.Until, of course,everyone got fed up with matching and moved on to the next shoe obsession.

14Trainers are mostly considered casual in the footwear categories.A prized pair of trainers are suitable for Friday night at the local pub but likely not for clubbing or smart-casual venues and events.

14運動鞋主要被歸為休閑鞋。一雙價格不菲的運動鞋適合周五晚上穿去本地的小酒館，但很可能不適合穿去俱樂部或出席商務便裝場所和活動。

Bodycon dresses

15While the weather may influence the majority of clothing on this list,bodycon dresses are the exception.Rain or shine, winter or summer, when going clubbing, a bodycon dress is uniform.

16And a coat? Absolutely not.Women in Britain take their clubbing outfits very seriously and are more than happy to shiver their way to hypothermia8hypothermia體溫過低，又稱低溫癥、低體溫癥。while lining up to enter the club.Figurehugging dresses are very much the fashion when partying in British clothing culture.

貼身連衣裙

15雖然本指南中的大部分服飾都可能受天氣影響，但貼身連衣裙是個例外。無論晴雨冬夏，去俱樂部都可以穿貼身連身裙。

16大衣呢？絕對不行。英國女性十分重視其聚會著裝，即使在俱樂部門口排隊時瑟瑟發(fā)抖，凍到體溫過低，也心甘情愿。在英國服裝文化中，聚會時穿貼身連衣裙是一種時尚。

17然而，貼身連衣裙并不只適用于俱樂部。其通常歸為半正式休閑裝和正裝，不過膽大的人也可能把它當休閑裝來穿，尤其是在夏天。外出就餐、觀看賽馬或出席婚禮等活動

17However, the bodycon dress is not solely reserved for clubbing.It usually falls into the smart-casual and formal category—although the brave may attempt the casual category, especially in summer.The bodycon is always a popular option for dining out, the races,or events such as weddings.時，貼身連衣裙永遠都是一個受歡迎的選擇。

Suit

18The classic suit is also popular within British clothing culture.Like the bodycon dress, a suit is associated with smart-casual or formal occasions, with casual wearing remaining a bold option.

19Often, a suit jacket is worn with casual clothes, like a pair of jeans, to create a smart-casual look.A full suit is usually reserved for formal parties, certain work occupations, the races, or key social events like weddings.

西裝

18經(jīng)典西裝在英國服裝文化中也很流行。像貼身連衣裙一樣，西裝適合半正式休閑場合和正式場合，此時穿休閑裝則是一種大膽的選擇。

19通常情況下，西裝上衣可以與牛仔褲等休閑裝搭配，以營造一種半正式休閑裝的感覺。全套西裝通常用于出席正式聚會、從事特定職業(yè)、觀看賽馬或參加婚禮等重要社交活動。

Trench coat

20Popular amongst men and women,the trench coat is a standard wardrobe addition in Britain.The coat shot to the spotlight as military attire in the First World War, despite being used back in the early 19th century.

21The long, waterproof trench coats were ideal for navigating the disgusting mud and diseased trenches.Although,trench coats were mainly reserved for the higher-ranking military, such as officers, instead of the common soldier.

風衣

22Nowadays, many retailers who once designed military uniforms provide fashionable clothing.Burberry, for one,was particularly notable during the war and remains a global fashion company today.During the First World War,Burberry released the Burberry trench coat for military use, and now its website showcases trench coats for a retail price of up to approximately ￡4,000.

20風衣男女皆愛，是英國人衣櫥里的標配。盡管早在19世紀初就已問世，但風衣作為軍裝而受萬眾矚目是在第一次世界大戰(zhàn)期間。

21長款防水風衣非常適合在令人作嘔的泥濘地和沾滿病菌的戰(zhàn)壕里行走時穿著。不過，風衣當時主要提供給軍官等高級別軍人，而非普通士兵。

22如今，許多曾經(jīng)設計過軍服的零售商都會提供時裝。博柏利便是其中之一。該品牌在戰(zhàn)爭期間尤為引人注目，至今仍是一家全球時尚公司。博柏利于第一次世界大戰(zhàn)期間推出了軍用博柏利風衣，如今其網(wǎng)站上展示的風衣零售價高達約4000英鎊。

Grey joggers

23Grey joggers are a necessity within British clothing culture.Commonly associated with hangovers, self-care9self-care工作學習之余自我放松、娛樂休閑等活動的總稱，例如讀書、冥想、鍛煉、烘培、逛街 、聽音樂、看電影等。days,or screaming “I prioritise comfort” to the world—joggers, preferably grey, are a cornerstone10cornerstone基礎；柱石；地基。item of clothing.

24Joggers, also known as sweatpants,usually fall into the loungewear or casual category.For context, you may just about get away with grabbing a drink at the local pub in joggers, although this could be considered a bold move and underdressed.However, to socialize casually with friends, joggers aren’t an issue.

灰色慢跑褲

23灰色慢跑褲是英國服裝文化中的一款必需品。慢跑褲（最好是灰色）是一款基礎服飾，通常與宿醉、自我調(diào)節(jié)的時光或“舒適第一”的穿衣理念聯(lián)系起來。

24慢跑褲，也稱運動褲，通常歸為家居裝或休閑裝。比如，你可以穿著慢跑褲在本地的小酒館喝上一杯，盡管可能被認為穿得有些大膽和隨便。但如果是和朋友休閑聚會，穿慢跑褲就不是問題了。

25Joggers were originally born in France as the brainchild of Emile Camuset, the founder of Le Coq Sportif.He created grey joggers in the 1920s for easy movement yet warmth for athletes.In the 21st century, joggers are massproduced by global brands and are particularly loved by the Brits throughout colder seasons.■

25慢跑褲最初誕生于法國，是樂卡克公司創(chuàng)始人埃米爾·卡米塞的創(chuàng)意。他在20世紀20年代發(fā)明了灰色慢跑褲，方便運動員活動和保暖。到了21世紀，慢跑褲由各種全球品牌批量生產(chǎn)，在寒冷的季節(jié)尤其受英國人的青睞。 □