富春江畔第一村

王小奇 胡筱璐 章璐瑤 濮一康

西下嚴陵灘，東流第一關。

幾年前，湖北人彭海杰和妻子到浙江富陽東梓關村旅游，被水墨畫般的美景吸引，隨后便租下一幢民房，并把自己的茶藝培訓事業(yè)和家從湖北搬到了這里。

“始于顏值，終于設計。我來東梓關，是為了完成對富春山居生活狀態(tài)的追求?！迸砗＝芟Ｍ谝粋€山清水秀的地方發(fā)展事業(yè)、享受生活。他的理想之地，最終選在了東梓關。守著一家名為“守一茶”的民宿，彭海杰繼續(xù)著自己熱愛的茶藝培訓事業(yè)，同時也圓了妻子開一間民宿的夢想。

如今，隨著富春江江鮮大會連續(xù)舉辦，“富春山居·味道山鄉(xiāng)”各項活動深入開展，“網(wǎng)紅村”東梓關村名聲越來越響，游人如織，一幅現(xiàn)代版富春山居圖畫卷，正在富春江邊這座千年古村落徐徐展開。

東流第一關，自古盡繁華

自古以來，富春江江水碧透，兩岸峰嶺俊秀，沿江名勝古跡棋布。它上通千島湖和安徽黃山風景區(qū)，下接美麗的杭州西湖，分上下兩段，從梅城到桐廬為上段，稱桐江;從桐廬經(jīng)富陽到蕭山聞家堰為下段，通常稱為富春江。富春江兩岸山色清麗，嚴子陵在此結廬隱居，吳均《與朱元思書》贊嘆“自富陽至桐廬一百許里，奇山異水，天下獨絕”，李桓詩有“天下佳山水，古今推富春”，元代大畫家黃公望晚年隱居富春江畔，完成傳世名作《富春山居圖》。

富春江富陽段全長52公里，兩岸群山連綿，江中沙洲點點，景色宜人。

擁有1500多年歷史的古村落東梓關村，沿富春江水岸線呈帶狀分布，自然風光秀美，文化底蘊十分深厚，是典型的江南濱水古村落。自古以來，就是古杭徽水道上的重要關口，也是富春江上的重要水上關隘。

早年間，富陽的東圖、新桐、常安、湖源，桐廬的深澳、鳳鳴，乃至浦江、諸暨等地的人們，行商往來，都會經(jīng)過東梓關，通過水路將土紙、煙葉、桕子等土特產(chǎn)運銷杭州、上海等地。商人們再通過船只將油、鹽、醬、醋、布匹、藥材、木料等生產(chǎn)生活用品運送到東梓關埠頭卸貨，再由行腳班送進內陸。

數(shù)百年經(jīng)營，東梓關就成了商賈云集、客流如梭的商埠集鎮(zhèn)，也是富春江上一個重要貨物集散地，素有富春江“東流第一關”之稱。

東梓關，曾名青草關、東梓、東梓塞，其“東梓”兩字，歷來眾說紛紜。傳說吳越行軍，到東梓關暫駐，見此處江面狹窄，對面有桐洲沙，往東兩公里是洋漲沙，形成了一處天然關隘，為兵家重地，漸漸就形成了一處關口，往來行旅都要通關。因這里是過富春下錢塘必經(jīng)之地，行人到此無不東望指關，故而得名“東指關”。也有傳說指江邊種有大批梓樹，年深日久后傳為東梓關。

多彩文化，滋養(yǎng)東梓關

在歷史的長河里，這座富春江畔的千年名村逐漸形成了原鄉(xiāng)文化、關隘文化、孝善文化、中醫(yī)文化、江鮮文化等，這些文化互相融合發(fā)展，共同造就了東梓關。

東梓關，原鄉(xiāng)文化歷久彌香。這里有遠近聞名的“許家大院”古建筑，許氏十房的故事早已讓人耳熟能詳。如今，村內還較好地保留著近百幢清末至民國初期建造的老房子和不少有價值的歷史古跡，它們雕梁畫棟、飛檐斗拱、粉墻黛瓦。此外，還有嘉慶年間修建的越石廟、朱家堂樓、王家大院……

東梓關的中醫(yī)文化獨樹一幟，許氏一脈人才輩出，其中不乏杏林妙手。

1932年，郁達夫先生因治療肺病，來東梓關尋找當時的名醫(yī)許善元治病，在許家大院休養(yǎng)了一段時間。根據(jù)這段經(jīng)歷，郁達夫先生創(chuàng)作了小說《東梓關》。小說中，郁達夫借用本地名醫(yī)、許家豪宅和“許春和”大藥房等作為素材，把一批東梓鄉(xiāng)紳所共有的氣質、風度、品行、志趣等集中于一人，塑造出了徐竹園這個典型形象。這個富春江邊的村莊，也因為郁達夫的小說，走進了千萬讀者的視野。

在安雅堂里，還原著“骨科圣手”張紹富問診的一幕。這里是一代名醫(yī)張紹富懸壺濟世行醫(yī)生涯的起始地，也是富陽中醫(yī)骨傷醫(yī)院的發(fā)祥地。1963年開始，張紹富在此坐診，醫(yī)術高明，慕名而來的病人大都乘船經(jīng)由輪船碼頭上岸到安雅堂求診，東梓關村儼然成了“中醫(yī)骨傷科”的代名詞。據(jù)說當時輪船碼頭有一家小面館，一上午就能賣出兩百碗面條，絕對算得上是一個令人驚嘆的數(shù)字。

東梓關依富春江而立，江鮮資源豐富，魚類眾多，鮮美無比?！拔茨軖伒酶淮喝ィ话牍戳羰墙r”，東梓關也曾是文人墨客流連忘返的駐足之處，這和膾炙人口的富春江江鮮密不可分。一年四季中，白鱸魚、刀魚、鳊魚、鰻魚、河蝦、鐵殼秤砣蟹等層出不窮。

清代詩人許正衡是東梓關人，他在《富春雜詠》一詩中寫道：“晚風隔水起漁歌，撥刺銀鱗出碧波。首夏鰣魚新上市，酒樓月下醉人多?！笨梢姰敃r人們對東梓關江鮮的推崇和留戀。

許姓是東梓關族群中的大姓，最早遷居富陽的是許明，他是五代十國時期吳越相國，隱居在距離東梓關約十里的屠山，積善行德做了不少事。

其后人許彧，生活于五代十國末期到北宋初年，和母親起初也住在屠山即今下圖山一帶。因他的母親孫氏愛吃魚，但屠山山高林密，難以吃到鮮魚，因此，許彧先遷居大桐洲，宋初時遷居東梓關。東梓關臨著富春江，江鮮資源豐富，魚類很多。這樣，許彧的母親就能天天吃到最新鮮的魚了。

許彧侍奉母親吃魚，還有一個感人的孝心故事，名叫“對江求魚”。

遷居東梓關后，許彧每天給母親孫氏的飯食中都有鮮魚。一日，許彧因身體不適，沒有抓魚，不久，母親也因數(shù)日沒有吃魚而生病了。當時正逢隆冬時節(jié)，天冷，大雪，漁民無法捕魚，許彧在村里到處都找不到鮮魚。于是，許彧來到江邊，對著富春江水嚎哭。在許彧大哭的時候，忽然有兩條魚跳到了岸邊，他就抓了魚回家，侍奉母親吃魚，不久，母親的病就好了。后來，母親去世，許彧為母親守墓三年。地方官知道了這事后，上報朝廷，也因此，許彧在宋雍熙三年（公元986年）得到了朝廷表彰。

如今，隨著富春江江鮮大會、年俗節(jié)、鄉(xiāng)賢大會等活動的舉辦，醫(yī)養(yǎng)小鎮(zhèn)的建設，不斷增強東梓關多彩文化的內生力，培養(yǎng)鄉(xiāng)村居民的責任意識、參與意識。

新杭派民居，喚醒沉睡鄉(xiāng)村之美

走進東梓關村，漫步長塘邊，一幢幢老房子白墻黛瓦，悠長的石板路，古典的四合院，會讓你深深感受到時代的變遷，簡單但又不失典雅。

這里的鄉(xiāng)村建設，有別于任何村。既要能融入周邊環(huán)境，又不能影響對古村落、老房子的欣賞，要點綴得當、恰到好處。

說到東梓關的美，自然要提杭派民居。在古村落保護工程推進過程中，東梓關村制訂實施了民居改造規(guī)劃，讓一幢幢規(guī)整氣派、斑駁古樸、飽經(jīng)風霜的老房重新煥發(fā)生機，為村民搬遷、建造“杭派民居”創(chuàng)造了條件。

負責東梓關村“回遷房”設計改造的綠城設計師孟凡浩說：“因為有‘限價’因素，我的目標就是做一個合理的造價控制，讓當?shù)氐拇迕裾嬲貜难锾统鲥X來買這個安置房。我們始終堅持一個原則，那就是保留鄉(xiāng)村原始面貌，盡可能在原有村莊形態(tài)上改善村民生活條件，把村子發(fā)展成為有歷史記憶、地域特色、民族特點的美麗鄉(xiāng)村?！?/p>

“我對理想鄉(xiāng)村的理解就是原住民的回歸。原住民流失了，城市里做‘田園夢’的人回歸鄉(xiāng)村再多，可能都不是真正意義上能進行自我循環(huán)的鄉(xiāng)村體系。原住民是否回歸應該是鄉(xiāng)村振興的衡量標準之一。”孟凡浩說出他理想中的鄉(xiāng)村模樣。

鄉(xiāng)村設計的力量，賦予美麗鄉(xiāng)村的，不僅僅是顏值的升級、功能的完善，還有因人氣帶來的人流和新生代的回歸，如此，文化得以傳承。

2016年6月，新杭派民居主體工程相繼完工。當月，一期46戶村民完成了抽簽選房。如今，很多村民都陸續(xù)入住新居。

借鑒吳冠中筆下江南民居形象設計而成的回遷房，溫婉內斂、簡約大氣。2017年，經(jīng)各大媒體報道，東梓關村的新杭派民居一下子成為全國網(wǎng)友關注的焦點，被稱為中國鄉(xiāng)村“最美回遷房”，東梓關村也成了人人向往的“網(wǎng)紅村”。

東梓新村33號，成為新杭派民居的第一位住戶。2017年新年前，村民許再新簡單裝修了一下房子，便入住了?！拔覀円郧白≡诟淮航?，房子是上世紀八九十年代造的，條件和現(xiàn)在的房子肯定沒法比，我們老兩口住上了330平方米的大房子，當然更舒服。”許再新說。

回遷掀熱潮，激發(fā)古村新活力

“家鄉(xiāng)是個回不去的地方?！边@句話，曾令許多走出家門、外出務工的人感同身受。但在東梓關村，隨著“最美回遷房”的建成，村里迎來了一波又一波的“回遷潮”。

這不僅是因為東梓關近年來的美麗鄉(xiāng)村建設“成果”，還因為人們看到了美麗鄉(xiāng)村背后的無限商機，依托家鄉(xiāng)的文化背景與現(xiàn)有資源，辦起農家樂，發(fā)展民宿經(jīng)濟。

位于杭派民居新居A-35號的茶言居，就是其中開辦較早的一家。走進院子，赫然是一片小花園，栽著幾株綠植，落地玻璃門敞開著，中式混合簡約裝修風格的堂屋讓人眼前一亮。

據(jù)民宿主人朱勇杰介紹，除自家人居住外，其余房間都已做了客房，即使遇到旅游淡季，也無需擔心支出成本，一個月賺五六千元是很平常的事。

村民趙小兒的民宿“棲遲”，名氣越來越大，客人絡繹不絕。

“現(xiàn)在東梓關環(huán)境這么好，不愁沒有人來?！壁w小兒對村莊的未來發(fā)展充滿信心，也對辦民宿這件事另有一番向往。

走在富春江邊，一座叫“梓緣”的民宿一定能吸引很多人的目光。它以江邊樓、酒樓作坊與老供銷社為建筑主體改造而成，根生于鄉(xiāng)間，卻仿佛是為人們親近自然所營造的憩息空間。而更令人未曾想到的是，創(chuàng)辦這間民宿的主人，竟是一位1993年出生的從英國回來的“海歸”陸琦瑞。

“我之前在英國倫敦大學學院攻讀數(shù)字媒體專業(yè)，回國后，看到鄉(xiāng)村旅游很‘熱’，就萌發(fā)開民宿的想法，并且想開一間能讓人‘回歸本心’的民宿?！标戠疬@樣形容他開這間民宿的初衷。

從義烏返鄉(xiāng)的申屠素云，創(chuàng)辦杭州富陽素云生態(tài)農業(yè)有限公司，把手工紅糖的手藝帶到了東梓關，衍生出幾十個紅糖產(chǎn)品，很受歡迎，不需要網(wǎng)購，光零售都不夠賣。

這樣的例子，在東梓關村還有很多。不僅只有“回遷潮”，古村落也吸引了很多“外來戶”紛紛入駐。

“我們是被東梓關的設計所吸引過來的，停留下來之后發(fā)現(xiàn)這個村子的內涵竟如此豐富。我最大的希望，是能夠和大家一起朝著同一個方向努力。”早已和當?shù)卮迕翊虺梢黄暮比伺砗＝?，對東梓關有著更高的期待。

Several years ago， Peng Haijie， a man from Hubei province， travelled to the Dongziguan village with his wife. He was so attracted to the picturesque landscape that he rented a local house， then moved his tea art training business there and settled down with his family. Peng hopes that he could find a nice place to do business and enjoy life， and he chose Dongziguan as the ideal destination. Running a B&B named Shouyicha， Peng continues to pursue his beloved career in tea art while bringing his wife’s dream of opening a B&B into reality.

Nowadays， as all kinds of activities are being held frequently to promote the local specialties along Fuchun River. The now well-known Dongziguan village is attracting a large number of tourists.

Historically speaking， the water of the Fuchun river is always crystal clear， the river itself guarded by undulating hills and dotted with scenic spots along the banks. To the north， it reaches as far as the Thousand Island Lake and the Huangshan Mountain in Anhui， and to the south， the beautiful West Lake in Hangzhou. It has an upper stream and a lower stream： the upper stream is called the Tongjiang River， stretching from Meicheng to Tonglu; the lower stream goes from Tonglu， Fuyang to Wenjiayan in Xiaoshan， and is normally referred to as the Fuchun River.

The full length of the Fuchun River in Fuyang is 52 kilometers and offers pleasant views. Dongziguan， an ancient village of over 1，500 years old， is built along the riverbank in the shape of a band. It is a classic Jiangnan （south of the Yangtze River） village with a spectacular natural landscape and a profound culture. It is also a significant strategic pass for merchandise exchanges throughout history.

From ancient times， different cultures have been nurtured here， which then intertwine with one another， together making the Dongziguan village the way it is today.

There is a rich historical atmosphere， in that nearly a hundred houses built from the end of Qing dynasty （1616-1911） to the early Republican period are well preserved， along with numerous invaluable historical sites. Dongziguan also has a unique traditional Chinese medicine culture. What is worth mentioning is the family of Xu， from where talented doctors have come out in succession. In 1932， Yu Dafu （1896-1945）， a famed short story write and poet， came to Dongziguan to seek treatment for his lung disease from Xu Shanyuan， a famous doctor at that time， and stayed temporarily at Xu’s residence for recovery. Based on that experience， Yu created his novel Dongziguan， which let the riverside village walk into the sight of millions of readers.

As a village by the side of the Fuchun River， Dongziguan is rich in aquatic food resources， which， since ancient times， have been attracting many men of letter to come here， writing poems and articles while enjoying the delicious food. Throughout a year， a wide variety of aquatic foods including sea bass， swordfish， bream， eel， river shrimp and crab just keep appearing.

The family of Xu is one of the largest in Dongziguan. Xu Ming， the earliest in his family to settle in Fuyang， was the chancellor of the Wuyue Kingdom （907-978） during the period of Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms （907-979）. He retreated to Tushan， a place about five kilometers away from Dongziguan， where he did piles of good deeds， and later led a life of a hermit. Xu Yu was one of his descendants well-known for his filial piety. At first Xu Yu lived with his mother at Tushan as well， but his mother was especially fond of fish， which were almost unavailable in the mountainous Tushan. Therefore， Xu Yu relocated with his family to Tongzhou and then to Dongziguan， the riverside village with an adequate supply of fish.

When you walk into the village of Dongziguan， strolling along the waters while admiring the white-walled， black-tiled old buildings， you will feel deeply that the changes of time have shaped this place with simple yet elegant vibes. There is something outstanding about the construction programs taking place in this village， which perfectly fit in the existing surroundings without letting down the sightseers who come for the authentic beauty of old buildings in an ancient village.

A significant part of Dongziguan’s charisma is contributed by the program of the Hangzhou-style civil dwellings， where weather-beaten old houses have been renovated to accommodate relocated villagers. According to the designer Meng Fanhao， who is in charge of this program， the goal is to control the costs within a reasonable range， and make the house prices affordable to local villagers. “We are sticking to a principle， that is to keep the original look of the village. Based on that principle， we are trying to improve the living conditions for local people， and to make this village more beautiful with its own historical memories and geographical as well as ethnic characters，” said Meng.

He also explained his understanding of an ideal village， “As far as I see it， it is all about the returning of local residents. If a village is losing her residents， there is no compensation for that， even if city dwellers with some sort of idyllic dream keep coming in swarms. Only the local residents can help to build a self-recycling system for their own village.”

In June 2016， the main part of this program was completed， and many villagers have been moving into their new home. Since the program fully wrapped up， the village has seen a returning boom. This is not only because of the successful results of the “Beautiful Countryside” programs， but also because of unlimited commercial opportunities lying behind. Relying on the cultural background and existing resources of their hometown， many local people who returned have begun to develop their businesses in agritainment and B&B.

Chayanju， one of the earliest B&Bs， with its green plants in the courtyard and a wide-open French glass door， looks just like a garden. Apart from the owner-occupied rooms， as introduced by Zhu Yongjie the owner， the rest are all functioning as guest rooms. Even in slack seasons， it is needless to worry about the costs， for he could easily make five to six thousand yuan per month. There is another B&B with an eye-catching appearance， one that is mainly transformed from a riverside building， a brewery and an old shop. The owner， quite to people’s surprise， is a young man born in 1993 who just got back from England as an overseas student.

Such cases are aplenty， the heroes of which are not confined to the returned local people， but also nonlocals like Peng Haijie， a man from Hubei. “Originally we were attracted here by the layout of the village. Yet we have been further fascinated as we dig deeper into the folk culture. My biggest hope is to work together with everyone here towards the same goal — to make the village a better place，” said Peng.