中國服飾文化

譯/楊亦彬

掃碼聽讀

As a vital part of Chinese civilization, traditional costumes play an important role in the country’s history and culture.Nowadays, traditional attires are only worn during certain festivals, ceremonies or religious occasions.However, they are often seen in Chinese television serials and movies.Many of the country’s ethnic minorities also wear traditional costumes in their daily lives.

傳統(tǒng)服飾是中華文明的重要組成部分，在中國歷史和文化中扮演著重要的角色。如今，人們只在特定節(jié)日、儀式或宗教場合穿著傳統(tǒng)服飾。但在中國的影視劇中，傳統(tǒng)服飾依然十分常見。許多少數(shù)民族也會在日常生活中穿著他們的傳統(tǒng)服飾。

2Based on historical discoveries, Chinese clothes date back to the later era of Paleolithic Times (1.7 million years ago—the 21st century BC).Materials used were of animal skins and decorations were of small stones and animal teeth.The “real”clothes were not invented until about 5,000 years ago by the Yellow Emperor.By the Shang Dynasty (17th century BC—1046 BC), the basic features of traditional Chinese attire were created, as well as the general pattern of blouse plus skirt.Later, the long gown appeared during the Zhou Dynasty (1046—256 BC) and it coexisted with the blouse-skirt combinations for thousands of years, improving further as time passed.

2歷史研究發(fā)現(xiàn)，中國的服飾可以追溯到舊石器時代晚期（170萬年前—公元前21世紀(jì)）。當(dāng)時人們以獸皮為面料，以小石子或動物牙齒做裝飾。直到至今約5000年前，黃帝才發(fā)明了真正意義上的服裝。商代（公元前17世紀(jì)—前1046）形成了中國傳統(tǒng)服飾的基本特征以及上衣下裳的普遍搭配模式。此后，長袍于周代（公元前1046—前256）出現(xiàn)，袍服制與上衣下裳組合并存數(shù)千年之久，隨著時間的推移不斷發(fā)展。

3In addition to the basic features and patterns, traditional Chinese attires have many other features like appearance,cutting, decoration, color and design,etc, all of which changed over the various dynasties.For example, black is the most dignified color in the Xia Dynasty(21st—17th century BC), white in the Shang Dynasty and red in the Zhou Dynasty.They also vary based on one’s political position, social status, occupation and gender, etc.For instance,dragon embroideries and bright yellow can only be used by emperors most of the time; in the Tang Dynasty (618—907 AD), purple official costumes are for the fifth or higher rank officials; in the Qing Dynasty (1644—1911 AD), the higher a person’s social rank or the richer one was, the more embroideries and borders there were on his attires.

3在基本的特征和樣式外，中國傳統(tǒng)服飾的許多其他特征——如外觀、剪裁、裝飾、色彩、圖案等——在朝代的更迭中不斷改變。比如，夏代（公元前21世紀(jì)—前17世紀(jì)）最尊貴的顏色是黑色，在商代則是白色，周代是紅色。服飾也會因穿著者的政治地位、社會階層、職業(yè)和性別等因素而不同。比方說，龍紋刺繡和明黃色通常為皇帝專用；在唐代（618—907），紫色官服為五品及以上官員專用；在清代（1644—1911），一個人社會地位或富有程度越高，其服飾上的刺繡紋樣和鑲邊也就越多。

4Although the fashion trend changes over time, there are several types that are popular till today both at home and abroad.

4盡管時尚潮流不斷改變，今天，仍有數(shù)種中國傳統(tǒng)服飾在海內(nèi)外廣為流行。

漢族傳統(tǒng)服飾（漢服）：漢服是指自黃帝即位（約公元前2698年）至明朝（1368—1644）晚期漢族人民穿著的服裝。其風(fēng)尚在漢代得到發(fā)展并大為盛行，因而得名“漢服”（Han Fu，fu在中文里意為“服裝”）。其特征為交領(lǐng)右衽、廣袖寬袍、隱扣系帶。漢服盡管紋樣簡樸，卻能給不同的穿著者帶來各異的感受。

Traditional Han Chinese Clothing(Han Fu):It refers to the attire worn by the Han people from the enthronement of the Yellow Emperor (about 2698 BC)till the late Ming Dynasty (1368—1644 AD).It became known as the Han Fu(“fu” means “clothes” in Chinese)because the fashion was improved and popularized during the Han Dynasty.It is usually in the form of long gown,cross collar, wrapping the right lapel over the left, loose wide sleeves and no buttons but a sash.Although simple in design, it gives different feelings to different wearers.

Chinese Suit (Tang Zhuang):It is a combination of the Manchu male jacket of the Qing Dynasty and the western style suit.It is usually straight collared,with coiled1coil盤繞，卷成卷。buttons down the front.Its color and design are in traditional Chinese style but the tailoring is western.

Cheongsam (Qi Pao):Originated from the Manchu female clothes, it evolved by merging with western patterns that show off the beauty of a female body.Its features are straight collar, strain on the waist, coiled buttons and slits on both sides of the dress.Materials used are usually silk, cotton and linen.Cheongsam is the most popular Chinese attire in the world today.

中式套裝（唐裝）：唐裝融合了清代滿族男士上衣和西式正裝，通常為立領(lǐng)，前襟正中列有盤扣。其顏色和紋樣均為中國傳統(tǒng)風(fēng)格，但采用了西式的剪裁方法。

長衫（旗袍）：旗袍源自滿族婦女服裝，在演進過程中融入了西式剪裁，以彰顯女性身形之美。旗袍的特點為立領(lǐng)、收腰、盤扣，且在衣裙兩側(cè)均有開衩。其材質(zhì)通常為絲綢、棉和亞麻。旗袍是當(dāng)今世界上最為流行的中式服裝。

中式緊身套裝（中山裝）：中山裝由孫中山先生設(shè)計，是西服與中式服裝的融合產(chǎn)物。其特點為翻領(lǐng)、有四個帶蓋口袋。自1949年新中國成立至20世紀(jì)80年代，中山裝是中國人的主要服裝。直至今天，在閱兵儀式等重要場合，國家領(lǐng)導(dǎo)人仍穿著中山裝出席。

Chinese Tunic Suit (Zhongshan Zhuang):Also called the Yat-sen Suit,it is designed by Dr.Sun Yat-sen2原文為“孫逸仙博士”。實際上，孫中山并無博士稱號，英文習(xí)慣稱其為Dr.Sun Yat-sen，是指其于1892年獲得的醫(yī)師（Medical Doctor）頭銜，因此，按照中文習(xí)慣譯為“孫中山先生”更加恰當(dāng)。by combining the western-style suit and Chinese attire.It has a turn-down collar and four pockets with flaps.It is the main attire from the founding of the People’s Republic of China in 1949 till 1980’s.The country’s leaders still wear it today when attending important occasions, such as military parades.

Other Types

Traditional Manchu Clothing: It is the traditional dress of the Manchu ethnic nationality, usually in the form of long gown and sometimes with a jacket or waistcoat outside.Since Manchu is the leading class of the Qing Dynasty and their dresses were strongly promoted,this kind of clothes was very popular in that period.The characteristics are round or straight collar, fasten with buttons from the right collar and a sash on the waist, two or four slits, and tight sleeves with cuffs shaped like horse hoofs3清朝服飾的袖是在本來就比較狹窄的袖口的前邊，再接一個半圓形的“袖頭”，因為形狀像“馬蹄”，所以人們都習(xí)慣地叫它“馬蹄袖”，滿族人則稱它為“哇哈”。cuff袖口。.

其他種類

滿族傳統(tǒng)服飾：滿族的傳統(tǒng)服裝通常為長袍，有時外面套一件馬褂或馬甲。由于滿族是清代的統(tǒng)治階級，且其服飾得到大力推廣，滿族服裝在此時期盛行。其通常為圓領(lǐng)或立領(lǐng)，衣服由領(lǐng)子右側(cè)的盤扣和一條腰帶系緊，下身有兩個或四個開衩，窄袖的袖頭形如馬蹄。

Traditional Clothing of the Other Ethnic Minorities: In addition to Manchu, the country has 54 ethnic minorities and each of them has their own unique costumes.Unlike the traditional Han Chinese costumes, these costumes are still widely worn today.Basically, they can be divided into two types: long gown and short coat with pants or skirt.They usually wear long gowns with hats and boots; others prefer short coat and generally wrap their head with cloth and wear shoes.People wearing the same type of clothes can be further distinguished by the costume details like the structure,craft and style, etc.Take the long gown for instance.The Mongolian and Tu nationalities prefer high collared gown with buttons down the front; the Tibet and Monba groups wear collarless gown with buttons on one side and the Uygur love those with buttons on the right.

其他少數(shù)民族傳統(tǒng)服飾：除滿族以外，中國還有54個其他少數(shù)民族，他們都有各自獨特的民族服飾。不同于漢族傳統(tǒng)服飾，這些民族服飾至今仍被人們廣泛穿著。這些服飾可以大致分為兩類：一類為長袍，另一類則為短衣和裙或褲的搭配。有些民族穿著長袍、搭配帽子和靴子；另一些民族則穿著短上衣，常常包裹頭巾并搭配鞋子。根據(jù)服飾結(jié)構(gòu)、工藝、風(fēng)格等細節(jié)，可以進一步區(qū)分穿著同類服飾的諸多民族。以長袍為例，蒙古族和土族偏好高領(lǐng)袍，其扣子位于前襟中央；藏族和門巴族則穿著無領(lǐng)袍，其扣子位于前襟的一側(cè)；維吾爾族則偏好扣子位于右側(cè)的長袍。

Officials’ Uniform: Unlike modern China, almost all kinds of officials in ancient times had uniforms.They are strictly distinguished by colors, embroidered patterns and hats, etc.For instance, in the Ming Dynasty, the embroidered pattern on a first rank civil officer’s uniform was a crane, second rank a golden pheasant,third rank a peacock, fourth rank a wild goose, fifth rank a silver pheasant, sixth rank an egret, seventh rank a “purple mandarin duck”, eighth rank an oriole and ninth rank a quail.

Traditional Wedding Costumes: Chinese traditional wedding costumes vary in different dynasties and time periods.However, they are red most of the time as red is considered lucky, happy and auspicious in the country’s culture.The most well-known are red chaplet and official robes, which are still widely worn today by the newly-weds in traditional style wedding ceremonies or for taking wedding photos.■

官服：與現(xiàn)代中國不同，古代中國的官員幾乎都有各自的官服。官員根據(jù)服裝顏色、刺繡補服紋樣、官帽等嚴(yán)格區(qū)分等級。比如說，在明代，一品文官的刺繡圖案為仙鶴，二品文官為錦雞，三品孔雀，四品云雁，五品白鷴，六品鷺鷥，七品“紫鴛鴦”，八品黃鸝，九品鵪鶉。

傳統(tǒng)婚服：中國傳統(tǒng)婚服根據(jù)朝代和時期的不同而各異。不過通常情況下婚服都使用紅色，因為按照中國文化，紅色是幸運、快樂和吉祥的顏色。最為人熟知的傳統(tǒng)婚服有紅色頭冠和官服長袍，它們至今仍是新婚佳人舉行傳統(tǒng)婚禮或拍攝婚紗照時的熱門著裝。 □