史前和古代的服飾

譯/盧屹

掃碼聽(tīng)讀

What did prehistoric people wear?

史前人類(lèi)穿什么？

人類(lèi)開(kāi)始穿衣服的確切時(shí)間不得而知，但有證據(jù)表明，我們可能早在50萬(wàn)到10萬(wàn)年前就開(kāi)始穿衣服了。考古學(xué)家發(fā)現(xiàn)了約4萬(wàn)年前貌似縫衣針的手工制品。首批確定無(wú)疑的縫衣針屬于公元前1.9萬(wàn)到1.5萬(wàn)年前存在于現(xiàn)今法國(guó)的梭魯特文化。染色亞麻纖維的證據(jù)可追溯到公元前3.6萬(wàn)年，發(fā)現(xiàn)于格魯吉亞共和國(guó)的一個(gè)史前洞穴。編織的最早證據(jù)發(fā)現(xiàn)于捷克共和國(guó)的下韋斯特尼采，是陶土片上留下的形似織物、筐、網(wǎng)等的印痕，已有2.7萬(wàn)年的歷史。大約2.5萬(wàn)年前西歐的維納斯雕像裝飾有筐形帽或無(wú)邊帽、腰帶以及一根布帶。東歐的維納斯雕像則扎腰帶、穿繩裙?？脊艑W(xué)家還發(fā)現(xiàn)了織網(wǎng)用的尺板、錠子針、編織棒，認(rèn)為它們也是用于編織的工具。

It is not known for sure when humans began wearing clothes but there is evidence that suggest that we may have begun wearing clothing as far back as 100,000 to 500,000 years ago.Archeologists found objects that look like handmade sewing needles that have been dated to around 40,000 years ago.The first needles that we are sure that are needles belonged to the Solutrean culture which existed in France from 19,000 BC to 15,000 BC.Evidence of dyed flax fibers dates back to 36,000 BC and was found in a prehistoric cave in the Republic of Georgia.The first evidence of weaving was found in Dolni Vestonice in the Czech Republic in the form of impressions of textiles and basketry and nets on pieces of clay and is 27,000 years old.Venus figurines1成組的小型女性石雕像，出現(xiàn)于舊石器時(shí)代晚期，用質(zhì)地較粗的石灰石和泥石巖雕刻而成。其中最有代表性的作品當(dāng)屬“威倫道夫的維納斯”（Venus of Willendorf），又叫“母神雕像”。該雕像肥胖矮小，一頭團(tuán)成圈形的卷發(fā)，面部看不見(jiàn)五官，手腳等細(xì)節(jié)表現(xiàn)較為粗糙，乳房、臀部等女性生理特征較為夸張突出。, from some 25,000 years ago, from Western Europe are decorated with basket hats or caps, belts and a strap of cloth.Venus figurines from Eastern Europe wore belts and string skirts.Net gauges, spindle needles and weaving sticks are also found by archeologists and are believed that they were also used in the making of textiles.

2The first known humans to make clothes were Neanderthals who, at some point in history, learned how to use the hides of the animals they hunted to keep themselves warm and dry.There is also the possibility that first clothes had primarily other purposes such as magic, decoration, cult or prestige, and were later found to be practical as well.Cro-Magnon man, who came after Neanderthal, improved clothes by using sharp awls, pointed tools and needles made out of slivers of animal bone with a point at one end and an eye at the other.He punched small holes in hides and then simply laced them with sinew and other types of cordage that could be found in nature.One of the first simpler clothes was tunic2tunic（無(wú)袖）寬松外衣，長(zhǎng)袍。which was made from two pieces of rectangular animal hide laced together on one side with a hole left for the head in the middle.Arms went through the open sides and the tunic was closed with a belt.

2已知最早制作衣服的人類(lèi)是尼安德特人，他們?cè)跉v史上的某個(gè)時(shí)期學(xué)會(huì)了使用獵物的皮毛讓自己保持溫暖干燥。最初的衣服原本可能另有他用，比如巫術(shù)、裝飾、崇拜、權(quán)威等，后來(lái)被發(fā)現(xiàn)也有實(shí)用功能。尼安德特人之后的克羅馬農(nóng)人改進(jìn)了衣服，用的是鋒利的錐子、尖銳的工具、用獸骨條制成的一頭尖而另一頭帶孔的骨針。他們?cè)讷F皮上打小孔，然后直接用動(dòng)物肌腱組織或者自然中現(xiàn)成的線狀物進(jìn)行縫制。最早的一種簡(jiǎn)易衣服是把兩片矩形獸皮的一邊縫起來(lái)、中間為頭部留出空隙的上衣。手臂從兩側(cè)開(kāi)口伸出，衣服用腰帶束緊。

3一套完整史前衣服的最佳例證是1991年在阿爾卑斯山發(fā)現(xiàn)的冰人奧茨身上的衣服，有5300年的歷史。他的衣服和裝備是用六種動(dòng)物的皮、骨、角、羽毛和17種樹(shù)的葉、木、纖維制成的。他的上衣扎了腰帶，兩腿各穿了一條長(zhǎng)筒襪似的綁腿，綁腿是用幾片山羊皮做成的，并系在腰帶上。他穿的鞋是用類(lèi)似棕熊皮、鹿皮和小牛皮的獸皮做成的，里面填了干草。他穿的外套是用動(dòng)物肌腱組織做的線將一條條山羊皮從內(nèi)側(cè)縫制而成。他頭上戴了一頂20厘米高的熊皮帽，還有皮制的下巴束帶。他背上的斗篷是用長(zhǎng)草稈做的。

3The best example of a complete set of prehistoric clothes is that found on ?tzi the Iceman found in the Alps in 1991, which is 5300 years old.His clothing and equipment were made from hides, bones, antlers and feathers of six different animal species and the leaves,wood and fiber of 17 different trees.His upper clothing was tied with a belt.His legs were covered with two separate leather stocking-like leggings which were made of several pieces of goat hide and attached to his belt.Shoes that he had were made of animal skins like brown bear hide, deer leather and calf leather and filled with hay.Coat that he wore was made of strips of goat skin that were sewed on the inside with thread made of animal sinews.On his head was 20cm tall hat made of bear fur which had leather chin straps.Cape that was on his back was made of long stalks grass.

Clothing in the ancient world

4 Types of clothing used in the ancient world depended on the technologies that were invented in that time.We have evidence about what people wore then from depictions of people in the art of the time and from archeological findings of fabric fibers and leathers that are sometimes very well-preserved.The frist actual textile was probably felt.N?lebinding was also another early textile technique and it dates from 6500 BC.

古代世界的服飾

4古代世界使用的服飾種類(lèi)取決于當(dāng)時(shí)的技術(shù)發(fā)明。關(guān)于古人穿什么的證據(jù)來(lái)自當(dāng)時(shí)藝術(shù)作品中的人物描繪，也來(lái)自織物纖維和皮革等考古發(fā)現(xiàn)，它們有時(shí)被保存得相當(dāng)完好。最早的真正織物可能是毛氈。單針環(huán)織法是另一種早期編織技術(shù)，可追溯到公元前6500年。

5 Earliest woven textiles of the Near East may be fabrics dated to c.6000 BC.They were used for wrapping the dead and are found at a Neolithic site at ?atalh?yük in Anatolia.Flax was cultivated from c.8000 BC and breeding of sheep with a wooly fleece from 3000 BC.

5 近東地區(qū)最早的梭織品可能是大約公元前6000年的織物。它們用于包裹尸體，發(fā)現(xiàn)于安納托利亞加泰土丘的一個(gè)新石器時(shí)代遺址。亞麻種植始自公元前8000年左右，長(zhǎng)毛綿羊養(yǎng)殖則始自公元前3000年。

6In Ancient India, cotton was used as material for clothing from 5000 BC.

7In Ancient Egypt most of the textile was made out of flax.Wool was known,but was used rarely (only for coats that were for instance forbidden in temples and sanctuaries) because it was considered impure as animal fibers were considered taboo.Complex clothing was reserved for higher classes while lower class wore only the loincloth or schenti.Both women and men wore same shoes—sandals braided with leather or, if they were bureaucrats and priests,braided with papyrus.They also wore tunics, robes, short-sleeved shirts, pleated skirts.Women also wore draped dresses made of white or unbleached fabric.

8Cretan clothes were made from wool and flax from which loincloths were made.The women of Crete wore longer loincloths as underskirts with a belt on which was fixed a large dagger.They also wore a long or short coat and a hat.Dresses were secured with brooches.Loincloths that men wore were in a shape of a short skirt or apron.Long clothing was in a shape of a coat made of wool and was worn for protection against bad weather.

6古印度從公元前5000年開(kāi)始就把棉花用作衣服材料。

7古埃及的大部分織物都是用亞麻制成的。那里也知道羊毛，但很少使用它（僅用于制作在寺廟、圣堂等場(chǎng)所禁穿的外套），這是因?yàn)閯?dòng)物纖維被視為忌諱，故而羊毛被當(dāng)作不潔之物。復(fù)雜的服飾是給上等人穿的，下等人只能穿遮羞布，或叫纏腰布。男女都穿一樣的皮編涼鞋，但官吏、祭司穿紙莎草編的鞋。他們也穿束腰外衣、長(zhǎng)袍、短袖襯衣、褶裙等。女人還會(huì)穿用白色或未漂白織物制成的垂褶連衣裙。

8克里特人的服飾是用羊毛、亞麻制成的遮羞布?？死锾嘏哟┹^長(zhǎng)的遮羞布，即扎腰帶的襯裙，腰帶上別著一把大匕首。她們還穿或長(zhǎng)或短的外套，戴帽子。衣服用飾針固定。男子穿的遮羞布形似短裙或圍裙。他們穿形似外套的羊毛長(zhǎng)衣以抵御惡劣天氣。

9古希臘服裝由長(zhǎng)短不一的長(zhǎng)方形亞麻或羊毛布料做成，肩部用搭扣或別針固定，腰部用皮帶、飾帶、束帶等系牢。佩普洛斯女式長(zhǎng)衣是一種較厚重的毛料全身長(zhǎng)衣，肩上有搭扣。男女都會(huì)穿希頓寬大長(zhǎng)袍，一種用輕薄亞麻布做的簡(jiǎn)便束腰上衣。斯特羅菲翁胸帶是女子穿的胸衣。男子穿的是克拉米斯短斗篷，一 種用無(wú)縫矩形毛料做的披風(fēng)。

9Ancient Greek clothing consisted of lengths of linen or wool fabric which had rectangular shape.They were secured with clasps or pins at the shoulder and a belt, sash or girdle at the waist.Women wore peplos which was a heavier woolen body-length garment with shoulder clasps.A simple tunic garment of lighter linen called chiton3chiton古希臘人貼身穿的寬大長(zhǎng)袍，有兩種樣式——多立克式（Doric）和愛(ài)奧尼亞式（Ionic）。worn by both men and women.A strophion was an undergarment which women wore around the mid-portion of the body.Men wore a type of c l o a k c a l l e d chlamys, a seamless rectangle of woolen material.

10One of the most famous items of clothing from Ancient Rome is toga—a one-piece woolen garment that draped loosely around the shoulders and down the body.There is evidence that toga was worn by all free Romans during the Roman monarchy and the Roman Republic,while slaves and children wore tunics.After the 2nd century BC, toga was worn over tunic by men while women wore stola, a long pleated dress similar to the Greek chitons.Girls and boys under the age of puberty wore a toga praetexta.It was special type of toga with a purple band on the lower edge.■

10最有名的一種古羅馬服飾為托加，這是一體式羊毛長(zhǎng)袍，從雙肩寬松地垂墜于全身。有證據(jù)表明，在古羅馬王政時(shí)代和共和國(guó)時(shí)代，所有羅馬自由民都穿著托加長(zhǎng)袍，而奴隸和兒童穿束腰外衣。公元前2世紀(jì)之后，男子在束腰外衣外穿托加長(zhǎng)袍，而女子則穿斯托拉，一種類(lèi)似于古希臘希頓寬大長(zhǎng)袍的褶皺長(zhǎng)裙。未成年人穿鑲邊托加，這是一種底邊鑲有紫色條紋的特殊托加。 □