阿姆斯特丹的水城風情

文／楊眉 圖／李沐

阿姆斯特丹位于荷蘭西部的北荷蘭省，不僅是荷蘭的首都，還是該國最大的城市，是享譽世界的旅游城市。阿姆斯特丹從漁村發(fā)展為國際大都市，其間經(jīng)歷過輝煌，也遭遇過世界大戰(zhàn)的洗禮。如今這里不僅有著優(yōu)美的自然風景和厚重的歷史文化，還以自由和寬容舉世聞名，被認為是世界上最包容、最自由、最開放的城市之一。

阿姆斯特丹號稱“北方威尼斯”，河網(wǎng)交錯，有大小160多條人工開鑿或修整拓寬的運河道。整個城市以中央火車站為圓心，經(jīng)由弧形的5條運河層層鋪開，其主要景點集中在大約1.5公里半徑的運河帶中。由于城市道路平坦，內(nèi)城一個點到另一個點之間的距離最多只有5公里，因此，自行車是最實用的交通工具。人們騎著自行車上班、上學、購物、觀光，阿姆斯特丹清晨的樂章，就是在車鈴聲中奏響的。

阿姆斯特丹號稱“北方威尼斯”，大大小小的運河穿城而過。Amsterdam is known as “Venice of the North”, through which, big and small canals flow.

游客乘坐游船徜徉在運河上，欣賞兩岸風光。Visitors sit on the cruise, enjoying the landscape on both banks of the canal.

游客在阿姆斯特丹國立博物館內(nèi)欣賞藝術(shù)家的杰作。Visitors enjoy artists’ masterpieces in the Rijskmusuem Amsterdam.

房子正面細長是阿姆斯特丹建筑的鮮明特色。A long and thin frontage is a distinctive feature of buildings in Amsterdam.

沿著運河走，就能夠領(lǐng)略阿姆斯特丹別樣的水城風情。河道兩旁是典型的荷蘭傳統(tǒng)民居，房子正面細長，有的甚至僅容一人通過。這是因為19世紀時，阿姆斯特丹人口增長過快，運河岸的房子越來越多，為了控制人口，政府對新蓋的房子進行征稅，征稅的標準便是門臉的大小。所以居民們只好盡力縮窄房屋正面面積。由于入門太小，家具無法進入，為此房上設(shè)有突出的吊鉤，便于居民裝運家具時，從窗戶搬入。

來阿姆斯特丹，怎能不領(lǐng)略郁金香的芬芳和絢爛呢？每年春季的3月底到5月底，在春風的召喚下，成千上萬的郁金香競相綻放，美不勝收。阿姆斯特丹近郊有一個庫肯霍夫郁金香公園，郁金香數(shù)量達600萬株以上。在公園的草坪上，有一架高大而古老的風車，供游客們登高觀花。進入風車內(nèi)，從窗口向外俯瞰，一望無際的郁金香鋪滿天地之間，不由讓人想起梵高筆下的《郁金香花圃》：各色郁金香爭奇斗艷，猶如畫筆在大地上鐫刻下的印記。

如同風車和郁金香，倫勃朗·馬爾曼松·里因、文森特·梵高是荷蘭的另一張名片，他們也賦予阿姆斯特丹無窮無盡的藝術(shù)魅力。在阿姆斯特丹的街頭巷尾，各種以倫勃朗、梵高名作為主題的衍生品充斥著人們的眼球，他們的形象也出現(xiàn)在巨幅海報上、畫廊櫥窗里、購物袋上……在荷蘭，這兩位藝術(shù)家的肖像旁鮮有文字說明，因為他們實在太出名了，根本不需要注釋。阿姆斯特丹國立博物館、梵高博物館是游客熱衷拜訪的地方，人們可以在博物館內(nèi)領(lǐng)略兩位藝術(shù)家的作品，從初創(chuàng)的青澀到藝術(shù)飛躍的進步，從孤獨的瘋狂到綺麗的想象，從熱情的色澤到歡快的筆觸，那些跳躍的藝術(shù)“音符”仿佛超越了時空，向觀者傳遞出永恒的感動。

水壩廣場地處阿姆斯特丹老城區(qū)的中心，每天吸引著無數(shù)游客慕名而至。Dam Square, located in the center of the old town of Amsterdam, attracts numerous visitors every day.

Amsterdam, located in North Holland—a province in the western Netherlands, is not only the capital of the Netherlands, but also the largest city thereof, and a world-renowned tourist city.

Known as “Venice of the North”, Amsterdam has a network of crisscrossed waterways, including more than 160 artificial or renovated / widened canals, big or small. Its main attractions are distributed in a canal zone with a radius of 1.5 kilometers. The urban roads are smooth, and the distance from one point to another in the inner city is 5 km at most, thus, bicycle is the most practical means of transportation.

There is a tulip park named Keukenhof on the outskirts of Amsterdam, which has more than 6 million tulips. On the lawn of the park, there is an old and tall windmill for visitors to ascend a height and enjoy flowers. Entering the windmill, looking out of the window, you will see a vast expanse of tulip fields stretching to the horizon. They are reminiscent of Vincent van Gogh’s: all kinds of tulips contend in beauty, like imprints left by crayons on the ground.

Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn and Vincent van Gogh became another image icon of the Netherlands. They brought endless artistic charm to this city. On the streets of Amsterdam, various derivatives themed Rembrandt and Van Gogh may come into view. They appear on huge posters, in gallery windows, on shopping bags... The Rijskmusuem Amsterdam and the Rijksmuseum Vincent van Gogh (Van Gogh Museum) are popular places for tourists to visit, where people can enjoy the two artists’ works. From immaturity in the early stage to artistic leapfrog, from lonely madness to beautiful imagination, from passionate colors to lively strokes, those jumping art “Notes” seem to transcend time, conveying an eternal touching feeling to viewers.