慢時(shí)尚的慢工細(xì)活

Steve Inskeep （Host）： That tragedy caused many people to think more about who makes their clothes and how theyre made. Many people are pushing for whats called slow fashion. As NPRs Elizabeth Blair reports， its partly modeled after the slow food trend.

Elizabeth Blair （Byline）： People into slow food often buy local. They want to know how the animals were raised and whether pesticides were used on crops. Slow fashion is similar， says Soraya Darabi， co-founder of Zady， a new clothing line thats trying to practice sustainable manufacturing.

Soraya Darabi： Its about understanding the process or the origins of how things are made， where our products come from， how theyre constructed and by whom.

Blair： This idea of slow fashion has been around for a long time， but over the last two years， it has grown into a small but dedicated movement， partly in response to the Rana Plaza disaster in Bangladesh. Georgetown University professor Pietra Rivoli says tragedies like the one in Bangladesh are a result of fast fashion—consumers buying lots of cheap clothes that are made in countries where theres little or no oversight of things like fire safety and wages.

Pietra Rivoli： We talk about a race to the bottom in apparel production with production chasing the lowest cost. I think the bottom right now is in Bangladesh.

Blair： Rivoli is the author of “The Travels of a T-shirt in the Global Economy”. In the book， she traced the origins of a T-shirt from Walgreens that cost $5.99.

Rivoli： A lot of times there are demand surges from the West. You know， we need more of those pink T-shirts， you know， by next week. And these brands had never really thought about the fact that they might need to be monitoring for actual structural integrity of the buildings. That wasnt something that was really on their radar screen.

Blair： Supply chain integrity is important to the founders of Zady. Theyve come out with a new T-shirt thats an example of slow fashion. It was made entirely in the U.S. by companies that co-founder Maxine Bédat says aim to be labor and eco-friendly. The textile industry is one of the worlds biggest polluters.

Maxine Bédat： Its producing a product thats really tackling， in one T-shirt， all of the issues that the industry is facing.

Blair： The cotton for Zadys T-shirt comes from an organic cooperative in Texas. The shirt was cut and sewn by a North Carolina company， where the sewers own part of the company. And it was dyed by TS Designs， which says it uses the least environmentally damaging method of dyeing. The company also makes a T-shirt it calls Dirt to Shirt. Maxine Bédat says slow fashion does take a lot of time.

Bédat： What were doing is piecing together what is left of an industry that has totally been decimated.

Blair： Zadys T-shirt is $36.

Darabi： It is a little bit of an upfront investment. But its also， we believe， the way of the future—to own fewer but better things.

Unidentified Woman： Right now， we have enough merchandise to last till about 3 maybe 4 oclock.

Blair： On a recent weekend， a huge line snaked around a Goodwill in Los Angeles for a massive vintage clothing sale. Jenny Rieu was there looking for clothes from the 1960s.

Jenny Rieu： Cause I love the mod style. I love crazy prints—so hopefully. Who knows？

Blair： Rieu says for her， slow fashion is about recycling—hats and dresses and purses that have some history.

Rieu： It was owned by someone living somewhere at some point， and it already had a life. And Im here able to give it maybe a second or third life. So that makes me feel something. And also， you find more unique stuff.

Blair： Rieu says at the vintage sale， she bought a number of accessories from the 1950s， including pink cotton gloves and a wide-brim straw hat with flowers. She says it feels good to buy clothing that has lasted a long time without spending a fortune or leaving much of a footprint on the environment.

史蒂夫·英斯基普（主持人）：這場(chǎng)悲劇（編者注：2013年4月底，位于孟加拉國(guó)拉納廣場(chǎng)大樓發(fā)生坍塌事件，造成一千多名制衣工人死亡，該事件給過(guò)分追求速度而忽視勞工安全與保障的服裝時(shí)尚產(chǎn)業(yè)敲響了警鐘。）使很多人更多地考慮服裝的生產(chǎn)者和生產(chǎn)過(guò)程。很多人積極提倡“慢時(shí)尚”。美國(guó)國(guó)家公共電臺(tái)的伊麗莎白·布萊爾報(bào)道稱(chēng)，慢時(shí)尚基本上是在“慢食”潮后形成的。

伊麗莎白·布萊爾（撰稿人）：崇尚慢食主義的人經(jīng)常買(mǎi)本地食物。他們想知道動(dòng)物的飼養(yǎng)過(guò)程，以及殺蟲(chóng)劑有沒(méi)有用于農(nóng)作物。慢時(shí)尚與此類(lèi)似，是試圖實(shí)踐可持續(xù)生產(chǎn)的新的服裝系列，乍蒂公司的創(chuàng)辦人之一索拉雅·達(dá)拉必如是說(shuō)。

索拉雅·達(dá)拉必：慢時(shí)尚就是關(guān)于對(duì)生產(chǎn)過(guò)程和物品原始材料的了解，我們的產(chǎn)品從哪里來(lái)的，他們?nèi)绾螛?gòu)建，由誰(shuí)來(lái)構(gòu)建。

布萊爾：慢時(shí)尚的概念已存在很久，但在過(guò)去兩年，其發(fā)展成為小小的專(zhuān)項(xiàng)運(yùn)動(dòng)，部分原因是為了回應(yīng)發(fā)生在孟加拉拉納廣場(chǎng)的一場(chǎng)災(zāi)難。喬治城大學(xué)教授皮埃查·瑞沃里說(shuō)像孟加拉（廠房倒塌）類(lèi)似的悲劇是快時(shí)尚引起的后果——消費(fèi)者購(gòu)買(mǎi)大量廉價(jià)服裝，這些服裝是在對(duì)諸如用火安全和工資等問(wèn)題缺乏監(jiān)管的國(guó)家生產(chǎn)出來(lái)的。

皮埃查·瑞沃里：我們說(shuō)的是服裝產(chǎn)業(yè)中挖空心思追逐最低成本的競(jìng)賽。我想目前的谷底就在孟加拉了。

布萊爾：瑞沃里是《一件T恤在全球經(jīng)濟(jì)中的漫游》一書(shū)的作者。書(shū)中，她追蹤了來(lái)自沃爾格林（美國(guó)的一家藥品、食品零售連鎖企業(yè)）的一件價(jià)格為5.99美元的T恤的生產(chǎn)源頭。

瑞沃里：很多時(shí)候西方國(guó)家需求激增。你懂的，我們需要更多那種粉紅T恤，下周就要。這些品牌的公司（只想著大量生產(chǎn)）從來(lái)沒(méi)有想過(guò)他們可能需要檢測(cè)這些廠房的結(jié)構(gòu)安全性。那并不在他們的考慮范圍。

布萊爾：供應(yīng)鏈的完整性對(duì)乍蒂的創(chuàng)辦人來(lái)說(shuō)很重要。他們生產(chǎn)的新T恤就是慢時(shí)尚的典范。全程都由美國(guó)公司生產(chǎn)，創(chuàng)辦人之一瑪克欣·貝達(dá)稱(chēng)，這些公司以改善勞動(dòng)力環(huán)境和不損害生態(tài)環(huán)境為目標(biāo)。畢竟紡織業(yè)是世界上最大的污染源之一。

瑪克欣·貝達(dá)：我們?cè)谏a(chǎn)能解決本行業(yè)正面臨的所有問(wèn)題的一件產(chǎn)品，就是這件T恤。

布萊爾：乍蒂的T恤采用來(lái)自德克薩斯州一家有機(jī)合作社的棉花。衣服由北卡羅來(lái)納州的一家公司剪裁和縫制，縫紉工人是該公司其中的老板。TS設(shè)計(jì)公司負(fù)責(zé)染色，據(jù)稱(chēng)染色過(guò)程采用對(duì)環(huán)境破壞最少的方式。該公司還生產(chǎn)一種名為“泥衫”的T恤?，斂诵馈へ愡_(dá)說(shuō)慢時(shí)尚的確需要花很多時(shí)間。

貝達(dá)：我們現(xiàn)在做的就是將行業(yè)中被完全摧毀后剩下的部分拼湊起來(lái)。

布萊爾：乍蒂的T恤賣(mài)36美元。

達(dá)拉必：這有點(diǎn)像預(yù)先投資。但我們相信這同時(shí)也是未來(lái)的發(fā)展方向——擁有更少但更好的東西。

不知名女聲：現(xiàn)在我們有足夠的商品可以持續(xù)到大概3點(diǎn)甚至4點(diǎn)。

布萊爾：最近一個(gè)周末，一條長(zhǎng)長(zhǎng)的隊(duì)伍環(huán)繞著洛杉磯的一家慈善二手服裝店古德維爾，因?yàn)橛写笮偷膹?fù)古服飾大甩賣(mài)。珍妮·睿烏正在那里尋找20世紀(jì)60年代的服裝。

珍妮·睿烏：因?yàn)槲蚁矚g摩登派風(fēng)格。我喜歡夸張的印花——如此充滿(mǎn)希望。誰(shuí)知道呢？

布萊爾：正如睿烏所說(shuō)，慢時(shí)尚就是回收利用——有些歷史的帽子、裙子和包包。

睿烏：這在某個(gè)時(shí)間點(diǎn)被住在某處的某人所擁有，它已經(jīng)有過(guò)一次生命。我在這里能夠給它第二次或者第三次生命。這讓我有所感觸。而且，你能找到更多獨(dú)特的東西。

布萊爾：睿烏說(shuō)在這次復(fù)古服飾大甩賣(mài)中，她買(mǎi)了很多20世紀(jì)50年代的配飾，包括粉紅的棉質(zhì)手套和一頂帶花的寬沿草帽。她說(shuō)不必花大錢(qián)或者沒(méi)有對(duì)環(huán)境造成多大污染，就買(mǎi)到擁有悠久歷史的服裝，讓她感覺(jué)良好。