來(lái)自瑞士的香氣

文 Tersina Shieh 編、譯 張?zhí)裎?

安妮·克萊爾·肖特不是一般的釀酒師。起初，她學(xué)習(xí)的是藝術(shù)史，并且不打算加入家族酒莊肖特·韋恩(Schott Weine)。她的祖父母和父母都在瑞士三湖泊區(qū)汝拉山麓的4公頃葡萄園中，釀造著傳統(tǒng)的葡萄酒。

Anne-Claire Schott is not your average winemaker. She studied art history and did not plan to join the family wine estate, Schott Weine, where her grandparents and parents were making conventional wine with their 4 ha vineyard at the foothill of the Jura Mountains in the Three Lake region, Switzerland.

后來(lái)，安妮·克萊爾·肖特決定跟隨她父親的步伐。她在著名的桑冉葡萄栽培與葡萄酒釀造學(xué)院學(xué)習(xí)釀酒課程，之后在美國(guó)的一家大型酒莊里獲得了豐富的經(jīng)驗(yàn)。她還明確表示，自己可以經(jīng)營(yíng)這家企業(yè)，按照自己想要的方式釀造葡萄酒。

安妮·克萊爾曾說(shuō)：“生于自然，勿毒害生息之壤?！币虼耍?016年加入公司后做的第一件事情，就是將葡萄園改造成生物動(dòng)力法種植。她自稱(chēng)是葡萄酒栽培者而不是釀酒師。生物動(dòng)力法耕種不允許出錯(cuò)，因此她花了大部分時(shí)間在葡萄園密切觀(guān)察葡萄，以確保它們是健康的。毫不意外，她也是自然酒愛(ài)好者。她認(rèn)為葡萄酒傳達(dá)了文化、風(fēng)景以及自然，可葡萄園和酒窖中的化學(xué)物質(zhì)卻剝奪了葡萄酒對(duì)于這些信息的傳達(dá)。

安妮·克萊爾釀造了一個(gè)系列的自然酒，命名為Aroma der Landschaft（Aroma of the landscape），她讓葡萄酒得以充分表現(xiàn)。這個(gè)系列的酒標(biāo)是由一位當(dāng)?shù)厮囆g(shù)家設(shè)計(jì)而成，反映了她的理念。第一款酒是2017年的白葡萄酒，只使用種植在陡峭葡萄園盡頭那一排排干墻旁的葡萄釀造。這是一款特別的混釀，用了6種葡萄一起發(fā)酵（莎斯拉、黑皮諾、灰皮諾、霞多麗、西萬(wàn)尼和長(zhǎng)相思），但是安妮·克萊爾不想談?wù)撈贩N。這款葡萄酒表現(xiàn)出特別的微氣候，石頭墻下的葡萄更容易暴露在太陽(yáng)下。葡萄酒有宜人的花香和白色水果芳香，酸度清新且余味喜人。

安妮·克萊爾仍然在試驗(yàn)中，她用不同的方式來(lái)釀造葡萄酒，并且每年都會(huì)加入新的葡萄酒，以此來(lái)擴(kuò)充“Aroma der Landschaft”這個(gè)產(chǎn)品組合。2018年是橙酒之年。經(jīng)過(guò)3周的果皮接觸以及在蛋形混凝土發(fā)酵罐中發(fā)酵，2018年份的白葡萄酒有額外的,以新鮮橘皮及茉莉花茶的結(jié)構(gòu)。她還釀造出了一款2018年份的灰皮諾橙酒，進(jìn)行了3周的果皮接觸。這款酒有復(fù)雜的氣味以及同樣的茉莉花味道。一款獨(dú)特的酒標(biāo)將瓶子包了起來(lái)，展開(kāi)就能看到與葡萄酒相關(guān)的信息。橙酒是用紅酒的浸皮技術(shù)制成的白葡萄酒。它很適合用來(lái)搭配食物，因?yàn)樗迈r，有微妙的香味和結(jié)構(gòu)。我覺(jué)得橙酒和中國(guó)菜搭配特別好。

目前，“Aroma der Landschaft”系列僅占酒莊葡萄酒產(chǎn)量的10%。安妮·克萊爾釀造的大部分葡萄酒仍然使用她父母肖特·韋恩的酒標(biāo)。如果你問(wèn)她和她父親的葡萄酒有什么區(qū)別，安妮·克萊爾會(huì)告訴你：肖特·韋恩曾經(jīng)的風(fēng)格是傳統(tǒng)和精致，而現(xiàn)在則是更加自由的風(fēng)格，不同的年份有不同的詮釋。那么她父母怎么看呢？她的父親很高興可以在酒莊幫忙，母親則仍然在為員工們做飯。除了白葡萄酒和灰皮諾橙酒，安妮·克萊爾還釀造了一款輕起泡酒和蒙維黑皮諾。她認(rèn)為傳統(tǒng)葡萄酒都是一樣的并且缺乏光澤。毫無(wú)疑問(wèn)，我們會(huì)在市場(chǎng)上看到越來(lái)越多她的天然葡萄酒。

When she finally decided to follow her father’s footstep, she took winemaking course in the highly regarded Changins School of Viticulture and Enology before gaining experience in a large US winery. She also made it clear that she can run the business and makes wine the way she wants. ‘Living in nature, we cannot intoxicate the land’, said Anne-Claire. Therefore, the first thing she did when joining the business in 2016 was to convert the vineyards to biodynamic. She called herself a winegrower rather than winemaker. Biodynamic farming does not forgive mistake therefore she spends most time in the vineyard closely observing the grapes to make sure they are healthy. Not surprisingly, she is also a fan of natural wine. She believes wine conveys the culture, landscape and nature. Chemicals in vineyard and cellar rob the wine of being the messenger.

Anne-Claire created her own series of natural wine under the name ‘Aroma der Landschaft’ (Aroma of the landscape) where she allows the wines to fully express themselves. The label was designed by a local artist to reflect her philosophy. The first wine, Blanc 2017 was a white wine using only grapes grown next to the dry walls at the end of the rows on the steep vineyard. It is an unusual blend of six varieties fermented together (Chasselas, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Sylvaner and Sauvignon Blanc) but Anne-Claire doesn’t want to talk about varieties. The wine is about the special micro-climate under the stone walls where the grapes are more exposed to the sun. It has pleasant floral and white fruits aromas, fresh acidity and a savoury finish.

Still experimenting, Anne-Claire expands the ‘Aroma der Landschaft’ portfolio by making wine in a different way and adding new wine every year. 2018 was the year of orange wine. With three weeks skin contact and fermented in concrete egg, Blanc 2018 has extra dimension of fresh orange-peel note and jasmine tea structure. She also made a Pinot Gris Orange 2018 with three weeks skin contact. It has an intricate nose and the same jasmine tea palate. A unique lithography label wrapped around the bottle unfolds to review the information about the wine. Orange is white wine made with skin maceration red wine technique. It is food-friendly because of its freshness, subtle aromas and structure. I find it particularly great with Chinese cuisine.

At the moment, ’Aroma der Landschaft’ contributes only 10% of the total wine production. Most of the wine Anne-Claire made is still under her parents’ Schott Weine label. Asked if there is any difference between her father’s and her wine, Anne-Claire said Schott Weine was traditional and precise while now is more free style with different interpretation depending on the vintage. So what does her parents think? Father is happily helping out at the winery and mother still cooks for the staff.

In addition to Blanc and Pinot Gris Orange, Anne-Claire also makes a Pét Nat (a slightly fizzy sparkling wine) and Mon Vieux Pinot Noir. She reckons conventional wine is all the same and lacks spectrum. No doubt we will see more of her natural wine in the market.