酸辣粉“嗦”出的成渝味

高維微

不知從何時(shí)起，“嗦粉”突然成了熱詞、趣事，江西、湖南、貴州、廣西，全國(guó)各地的“嗦粉”愛(ài)好者紛紛曬出自己心目中的“粉界花魁”，一時(shí)間天南地北各種口味的粉攪動(dòng)著味道江湖。相對(duì)于螺螄粉這類“網(wǎng)紅粉”，成渝地區(qū)的這碗“粉”顯然資格更老、名氣更大。

與大多數(shù)地方“粉”所指代的米粉不同，成渝地區(qū)食客口中的“粉”，多指用紅薯粉制成的酸辣粉。

好吃的酸辣粉，有一種如燉豬蹄般的軟糯口感，又酸又辣的滋味總是讓人欲罷不能，一口嗦下去，滑溜溜的，膠原蛋白口感的粉會(huì)“哧溜”一下滑入口中。

嗦完粉，食客們還會(huì)伸出舌頭，將吸附在唇上的汁水舔掉。對(duì)于有經(jīng)驗(yàn)的老饕來(lái)說(shuō)，這一舔至關(guān)重要，照他們的說(shuō)法，酸與辣融合得好不好，味道全在唇上沾的那點(diǎn)汁水里。

The phrase "slurping rice noodles" crept in at some point and suddenly became a hot word. Keen fans of rice noodles from Jiangxi， Hunan， Guizhou， Guangxi， and all over the country then rush to share the"best rice noodles" in their mind. For a split second， rice noodles of various flavors from both the south and the north have got a change to flourish. Compared with the "network celebrities" such as Liuzhou river snails rice noodle， the rice noodles in Chengdu and Chongqing enjoy more prominent reputation and popularity.

Unlike rice noodles in most places， people in Chengdu and Chongqing refer to the hot and sour rice noodles made of sweet potato flour when they talk about rice noodles.

The delicious hot and sour rice noodles tastes softly and glutinously， just like stewed pig’s trotters. The sour and spicy taste of rice noodles is irresistible to all. Slurping a mouthful of the slippery， collagen-tasting rice noodles， you will feel it slide into your mouth at one stroke.

Finishing eating， diners will stick their tongues out and lick off the juice on their lips. For experienced gourmets， the last lick is very important. In their words， they can judge whether the acid and spicy mix well or not from the juice on the lip.

要吃一碗正宗的酸辣粉，自然得是手工制作的紅薯粉，最好是現(xiàn)場(chǎng)制作的。

更講究一些的店家，還會(huì)用高湯做底。當(dāng)滾燙的高湯和佐料相逢，空氣中立馬彌漫開(kāi)一種獨(dú)特的酸辣香味。

如果說(shuō)佐料是酸辣粉的靈魂，那蓋在酸辣粉上的澆頭，則是承載這抹靈魂的肉體。

A bowl of authentic hot and sour rice noodles must be handmade from sweet potato powder， preferably made on site.

Some experienced restaurant owners may use stock as the base. When the hot stock meets the ingredients， a unique sour and spicy fragrance will immediately float in the air.

If the condiments are the soul of the hot and sour rice noodles， then the topping covering the rice noodles will be the body carrying the soul.

成都人最鐘愛(ài)肥腸澆頭，成都青石橋街可以說(shuō)是肥腸粉的“大本營(yíng)”，每家的味道各有千秋。老瓦房肥腸粉、復(fù)興肥腸粉，算得上這條街乃至成都肥腸粉里的“扛把子”。

說(shuō)到成都的肥腸粉，就不得不說(shuō)“冒節(jié)子”。冒節(jié)子，就是有一段在紅油里“冒”（燙）過(guò)的豬小腸。在成都，吃肥腸粉不加冒節(jié)子，就跟麻婆豆腐不撒花椒面一樣。它被成都人稱為只要兩塊錢就能提升整碗肥腸粉境界的靈魂食物。饕客在咬破冒節(jié)子前，還會(huì)先選個(gè)下口的地方，以防止肥腸里的湯汁灑出。

不過(guò)，各家的冒節(jié)子總是有些區(qū)別。穩(wěn)健派，會(huì)用棉線把小腸的兩端捆好；省事派，一般會(huì)把小腸兩頭合在一起打個(gè)死結(jié)；精致派，會(huì)在小腸中間打一個(gè)簡(jiǎn)約版的中國(guó)結(jié)……

成都人賣肥腸粉，賣的并非那一碗紅薯粉。精明的店家很講究搭配些輔食，比如軍屯鍋盔。也不知是誰(shuí)說(shuō)的，吃肥腸粉就得搭軍屯鍋盔，就像吃火鍋必點(diǎn)毛肚，酸辣粉的軟糯和鍋盔的酥脆搭配著吃堪稱絕配。

Chengdu people prefer hot and sour rice noodles with the topping of pig’s large intestines. The Qingshiqiao Street in Chengdu is home to many pig’s intestines rice noodles restaurants， each has its own unique flavor. Laowafang Pig’s Intestines Rice Noodles and Pig’s Intestines Rice Noodles are the two most welcomed rice noodles restaurants in this street and even Chengdu.

When it comes to pig’s intestines rice noodles in Chengdu， we have to mention"Maojiezi". Maojiezi refers to a section of small intestine of pig that has been"steamed" （scalded） in red oil. In Chengdu， eating pig’s intestines rice noodles without adding Maojiezi is just like eating mapo tofu without sprinkling pepper. It is a soul food that Chengdu people believe can improve the entire bowl of rice noodles at a cost of only two yuan. Gourmets will choose a point to get start before biting Maojiezi to prevent the soup in it from spilling out.

However， Maojiezi made in each restaurant varies. The conservative group often use cotton thread to tie the two ends of the small intestine； Convenience seekers usually put the two ends of the small intestine together to form a fast knot； While perfectionists often make a simple version of Chinese knot in the middle of the small intestine...

Rice noodles restaurants in Chengdu sell not only the sweet potato powder. Smart store owners pay much attention to some complementary foods， such as Juntun Guokui. Someone even said that Juntun Guokui is a perfect match to pig’s intestines rice noodles， just like hot pot and tripes. The soft， glutinous hot and sour rice noodles pair up quite nicely with the crisp Guokui.

在重慶吃酸辣粉，講究就相對(duì)要少些，酸辣粉的澆頭大多與小面共用，以炸醬為主，間或也有牛肉和肥腸。粉絲出鍋，老板會(huì)在粉上蓋一層厚厚的、油亮亮的炸醬。北碚金華路上一家早餐店的酸辣粉更為霸氣，澆頭是巴掌大、約1厘米厚的牛肉，老板振振有詞地解釋：“吃肉就是要吃安逸。”

不過(guò)，在重慶要論名氣，還要數(shù)八一路好又來(lái)的炸醬酸辣粉更響亮，這一點(diǎn)只要走到八一路看看排隊(duì)的食客就一目了然。店鋪開(kāi)張以來(lái)，這里的酸辣粉就只有兩種，“加炸醬的”和“不加炸醬的”。店里一口電飯鍋里，裝的就是保著溫的炸醬。選擇雖少，但不影響店鋪前排隊(duì)的隊(duì)伍長(zhǎng)度，這其中不乏很多逛解放碑的本地人。坐在花壇邊的休息凳上，或者干脆站在街邊，端著紙碗小心翼翼有滋有味地“嗦”一碗油汪汪的酸辣粉，這樣的場(chǎng)面，曾一度是熙熙攘攘的八一路的標(biāo)配。

酸辣粉的來(lái)歷，似乎并沒(méi)有確切的說(shuō)法。流傳最廣的，是三國(guó)時(shí)期劉關(guān)張?zhí)覉@結(jié)義的故事。寓意雖然美好，不過(guò)，紅薯和辣椒都是在明朝才傳入中國(guó)，而辣椒一開(kāi)始還只是作為一種觀賞作物。

隨著紅薯在成渝地區(qū)大面積種植，勞動(dòng)人民或許是借鑒了粉絲的制作方法，制作出了紅薯粉。在物質(zhì)匱乏的年代，一碗口感軟糯的酸辣粉，被當(dāng)做肉食替代品而廣受歡迎。

如今，酸辣粉已經(jīng)成為地方特色美食之一，不少旅游景區(qū)都能看到酸辣粉的身影：做酸辣粉的師傅，一手端著篦子，一手在篦子里的粉坨上勻速拍打，一根根粉條便從幾十個(gè)孔洞中漏出，落入沸騰的大鍋里。粉條燙熟后，再入涼水，而后掛在店外，只等著和香醋、油辣子以及一勺醇香油亮的炸醬激情相遇。

Eating hot and sour rice noodles in Chongqing is less fastidious. The topping of hot and sour rice noodles is mostly shared with Chongqing spicy noodles， mainly made from fried sauce， and occasionally beef and fatty intestines. After get the rice noodles out of the pot， the boss will cover it with thick， oily fried sauce. An ostentatious breakfast shop on Jinhua Road in Beibei District makes the topping for its hot and sour rice noodles with a piece of beef， with a thickness of about 1cm and a palm size. The boss explained proudly："I hope that everyone comes here will be stuffed with beef."

However， in Chongqing， the fried sauce hot and sour rice noodles of Hao You Lai at Bayi Road is more famous. This is clear at a glance at the diners queuing up outside it. It offer only two kinds of hot and sour rice noodles since its opening， one "with fried sauce" and one "without fried sauce". An electric rice cooker in the restaurant is filled with warm fried sauce. The few choices do not affect the length of the queue in front of the restaurant， among which there are many locals wandering around Jiefangbei. Sitting on a rest stool beside the flowerbed， or simply standing on the street， carrying a paper bowl， carefully and happily "slurping" a bowl of oily hot and sour rice noodles... Such scenes are not new on the bustling Bayi Road.

There seems to be no written record about the origin of hot and sour rice noodles. The most widely spread is the Oath of the Peach Garden during the Three Kingdoms period. Yet sweet potato and chili were introduced into China in the Ming Dynasty， and chili was actually regarded as an ornamental crop when it was introduced into China.

With the large-scale cultivation of sweet potatoes in Chengdu and Chongqing， the farmers， drawing the production method of vermicelli， made sweet potato flour. In an era of material scarcity， a bowl of soft and glutinous hot and sour rice noodles is popular as a meat substitute.

Nowadays， hot and sour rice noodles has become one of the local delicacies， and can be seen in many a tourist attraction： a cook holding a perforated strainer with one hand and patting at a constant speed on the powder lump in the strainer with the other hand， then pieces of vermicelli will leak out of dozens of holes in it and fall into a boiling cauldron. After the vermicelli is cooked thoroughly， it is put into cold water and hung outside the restaurant， only to encounter with balsamic vinegar， oil chili and a spoonful of mellow and oily fried sauce.