巴厘島制造

文|Tersina Shieh 編、譯|張?zhí)裎?/p>

位于赤道以南8度的巴厘島，一直以來因種植水稻和外來水果而被世界熟知。如果在這里種植葡萄呢？大多數(shù)葡萄酒專家會告訴你：這是不可能的，因為這里太熱了！但實際上，自20世紀初，巴厘島就已經(jīng)開始種植食用葡萄。就像水稻一樣，葡萄每年也會有3次采收期，且不需要經(jīng)歷冬季的樹藤休眠期。盡管如此，這并不能阻止一些頗具前瞻目光的思想家（也可以叫他們頑固派）去嘗試在這個吸引了包括雅加達人在內全球旅游愛好者的熱帶島嶼上釀造葡萄酒。

哈登葡萄酒莊（Hatten Wines）是巴厘島葡萄酒的先驅，酒莊于1994年建立，擁有約35公頃的葡萄園并且仍在擴張，這座莊園坐落在巴厘島東北部地區(qū)的新加拉惹，那也是最干旱的地方。一開始，哈登只用原產于法國的阿方斯萊弗寧（Alphonse-Lavallée）葡萄來釀制桃紅（靜止葡萄酒，接下來還有起泡酒）葡萄酒。直到2001年的第100次采收后，哈登才開始使用當?shù)仄咸哑贩N，包括近乎滅絕的龐月比盧（Probolinggo Biru）和莫斯卡特家族的比利加（Belgia）葡萄。這個系列現(xiàn)在有7款葡萄酒：用傳統(tǒng)法釀造的起泡酒（屯榮格白葡萄酒和杰彭桃紅葡萄酒），干型阿嘉白葡萄酒，半甜型亞歷山大白葡萄酒，半甜型桃紅葡萄酒和索雷拉系統(tǒng)釀造的加強型巴厘島皮諾白葡萄酒。

沙巴貝酒莊（Sababay）是巴厘島第二“古老”的酒莊，成立于2010年。當時慕莉雅蒂·戈扎利夫人在參觀過這家酒莊后，出于對當?shù)仄咸言耘嗾叩膸椭o予了支持。在合作模式下，約有300名農民從北方80公頃左右的葡萄園中，提供了當?shù)仄咸哑贩N瓦利爾慕斯卡特（Muscat St Vallier）和阿方斯萊弗寧，釀造了幾款葡萄酒：用100%瓦利爾慕斯卡特釀造的絲絨白葡萄酒（又名比利加），玫瑰花桃紅葡萄酒，黑絲絨紅葡萄酒和珍藏紅葡萄酒，巴厘島莫斯卡托葡萄酒，半甜型露迪西亞葡萄酒和紅寶石波特風格的馬斯切蒂。沙巴貝的女兒兼酒莊CEO伊娃·戈扎利與農業(yè)社合作密切。當沙巴貝酒莊被邀請和“精彩巴厘島”旅游項目合作這件事，她特別興奮，因為這一項目能夠促進巴厘島的發(fā)展。

康提尼·巴黎塔的伊莎拉酒莊建立于2012年，由印度尼西亞人和意大利人合伙經(jīng)營。除了瓦利爾慕斯卡特和阿方斯萊弗寧，酒莊還種植了黑瑪爾維薩和西拉。目前，酒莊僅釀造3款酒：伊莎拉莫斯卡托白葡萄酒、伊莎拉桃紅葡萄酒和伊莎拉紅葡萄酒。

這些酒莊的釀酒師都認為將葡萄種植在巴厘島是一件非常具有挑戰(zhàn)的事情。哈登酒莊的澳大利亞釀酒師詹姆斯·凱萊斯可表示，公司用了10年時間來反復進行試驗，才有了如今的成果。巴厘島的葡萄園采用棚架栽培系統(tǒng)，葡萄在棚架上蔓延，而果實則在葉子的保護下生長。這種栽培方式既能讓工人們在涼爽的環(huán)境下工作，同時也保護葡萄免受日曬雨淋。龐月比盧和比利加這兩個白葡萄品種生長得相當好，紅葡萄品種阿方斯萊弗寧卻經(jīng)常會出現(xiàn)酚類物質成熟度的問題。哈登有一個用于研發(fā)的10公頃葡萄園，詹姆斯和研究員杰米·帕拿馬曾試驗將40多個葡萄品種以新枝垂直分布形（VSP）來培養(yǎng)，以及長短交替的修剪法來限制采收控制在一年一收的頻率。由于活力高，藤本植物形成頂端優(yōu)勢，遠端的少數(shù)萌芽比靠近樹干頭部的萌芽更加年長。杰米把葡萄藤向上彎曲，形成一個弧度，減緩營養(yǎng)和水份流往葡萄藤末端的速度，使樹藤中部的節(jié)點能夠正常發(fā)育。只是目前丹魄的狀況并不樂觀，反而白詩南和西拉的生長讓杰米感到十分開心。

沙巴貝酒莊的法國釀酒師尼可拉斯·德拉克松對詹姆斯作出了回應。為了提高葡萄的品質，沙巴貝將采收期控制在一年兩次并避免在雨季采收。農民采收葡萄的每公斤單位薪資也在提高。雖然阿方斯萊弗寧可以釀成令人愉悅的桃紅葡萄酒，但要將它想釀成世界級的紅葡萄酒還是不夠理想。因此，就像哈登一樣，沙巴貝正在與農民合作種植其他葡萄品種。尼可拉斯已經(jīng)對法國老式思維和嚴格的規(guī)章制度感到厭煩，認為這限制了法國生產商的競爭力。他熱愛自己在巴厘島面臨的挑戰(zhàn)，因為他善于利用創(chuàng)新技術來提供葡萄酒的質量。他的座右銘是：“昨日的創(chuàng)新就是今天的傳統(tǒng)?！?/p>

從一開始，康提尼·巴黎塔就種植了黑瑪爾維薩來給阿方斯萊弗寧增加酒液顏色和果味。意大利釀酒師賈科莫·安塞米和助手阿貢·威利斯則與農民密切合作，執(zhí)行嚴格的葡萄園管理規(guī)則，比如進行綠色采摘和控制采收至一年兩次，以此來提高葡萄成熟度。他們還計劃用其他意大利葡萄品種進行試驗，包括歌蕾拉、黑珍珠和普里米蒂沃等葡萄品種來提高葡萄酒的品質。

印度尼西亞有90%的進口稅，還有消費稅和增值稅?？紤]到印尼中產階級的平均收入僅約為250美元/月（約1737元），即使是入門級進口葡萄酒，每瓶的零售價也在360萬-400萬盧比（170-190元）之間，對于大多數(shù)當?shù)厝藖碚f就是奢侈品。游客們也發(fā)現(xiàn)這里的葡萄酒與本國相比太貴了。巴厘島葡萄酒每瓶價格約20美元（約139元），因此對他們而言很有吸引力。這3家酒莊均以當?shù)厥袌鰹橹攸c，主要銷售到巴厘島，其次是雅加達。

有志者事竟成。大約有2000名生產商決定只用國際葡萄品種來釀造優(yōu)質葡萄酒，以此來與進口酒競爭。他們并不是在巴厘島種植葡萄藤，而是從其他葡萄酒種植國進口原材料，并在巴厘島進行加工。來自探索海角酒莊（Cape Discovery）的澳大利亞籍釀酒師米奇·海伊解釋說，一方面一些葡萄酒生產國存在過剩的葡萄；另一方面，一些新興國家正在尋求價格合理的優(yōu)質葡萄酒。他所做的就是將這兩方面相結合。探索海角酒莊從西澳、美國和新西蘭的葡萄園進口冷藏葡萄汁和澄清汁，按需釀造葡萄酒。按照米奇的說法，即使他并不是在釀造風土導向的葡萄酒，但他還是有團隊在當?shù)刎撠煿芾恚源_保葡萄的采收能夠按照他的標準進行。他的目標是釀造能凸顯葡萄品種本身特色的優(yōu)質葡萄酒。它的定價在巴厘島葡萄酒和入門級進口葡萄酒之間，當我向一眾馬來西亞葡萄酒專家們、進口商、侍酒師和教育工作者等展示該酒莊的葡萄酒時，他們都對它的性價比表達了廣泛的認可。探索海角酒莊的葡萄酒還在一些國際葡萄酒大賽上贏得了獎牌，如國泰香港國際葡萄酒與烈酒大賽。實際上，哈登葡萄酒有一款酒標為“雙島（Two Islands）”的葡萄酒，酒液就是由澳大利亞進口的葡萄汁制成。

普拉加葡萄酒莊（Plaga Wine）是另一個在巴厘島上利用非酒精原料進口稅低這一優(yōu)勢來釀酒的廠商。這個團隊由一群說西班牙語的人領導，包括來自智利的市場營銷員胡安·迪亞茲，來自阿根廷的釀酒師普拉伯·岡薩雷斯和來自西班牙的喬迪·莫雷諾。酒莊從智利中央山谷、意大利西西里島以及西班牙拉曼查進口濃縮葡萄汁，并在收獲期進行實地品質控制，普拉加的主要目標人群是年輕的印度尼西亞人，零售價格與當?shù)胤N植的葡萄酒持平。在真正的拉丁精神中，傳遞的訊息是樂觀的——無論在何時何地，都要過得開心。胡安給我看了即將發(fā)售的莫斯卡托視頻，不得不說這是吸引消費者的一個亮點。

用第三國的葡萄品種來釀酒一直以來備受爭議。然而葡萄還是經(jīng)常從不同的產區(qū)運到酒窖進行加工。理論上，在冷凍狀態(tài)下運輸葡萄汁和果汁是可以保證質量的（有些人也許還主張保留風土特征）。建立在大都市里的酒莊也正在涌現(xiàn)，比如建在倫敦、悉尼、溫哥華和華盛頓等地的城市酒莊（Urban Wineries），他們使用的葡萄通常來自不同的國家，我們在香港也有自己的城市酒莊計劃。如果這些大城市的消費者都接受這些城市酒莊，那像探索海角、雙島和普拉加這樣的酒莊自然也就沒什么問題了。

經(jīng)過與釀酒師的商討，觀察當?shù)厥袌霾⑵穱L了所有的葡萄酒，我只能表示尊重這些巴厘島的酒莊以及他們正在做的事情。就像其他亞洲國家一樣，印尼還沒有發(fā)展葡萄酒文化，進口葡萄酒遠遠超出了普通消費者的承受能力。然而，這些并不應該阻止當?shù)厝说暮闷嫘?，讓他們害怕去品嘗和享受葡萄酒。阿方斯萊弗寧或者比利加或許不是主流葡萄酒，但如果印尼人喜歡它們，那就可以了。如果用進口原料釀造的葡萄酒和原產地國家一樣好喝，我們?yōu)槭裁匆魬?zhàn)它呢？這至少比很多用合成材料生產的產品好多了。也許，比起其他產業(yè)來說，葡萄酒業(yè)所缺乏的正是創(chuàng)意和創(chuàng)新吧？

Located just south of equator at 8oS, Bali is known for growing rice and exotic fruits. But wine grapes? Most wine professionals will tell you impossible because it is just too hot. In fact, Bali has been growing table grapes since the beginning of the 20th century and like rice, there are three harvests per year as there is no winter for the vines to be dormant. However, this doesn't stop some forward-thinkers（or you can say stubborn）to try making wines in this tropical island that attracts tourists from all corners of the world including Jakartans.

Hatten Wines is the pioneer of Balinese wine. The winery was established in 1994 and the vineyards, around 35ha in total and expanding, are located in Singaraja, northeast of Bali where it is the driest. At the beginning, Hatten only made Rosé（still and later a sparkling）from local table grape Alphonse-Lavallée of French origin.Only after the 100th harvest in 2001 then Hatten its portfolio using local grapes including the near extinct Probolinggo Biru, and Belgia in the Muscat family. The portfolio now has seven wines: sparkling made in traditional method（white Tunjung and rosé Jepun）, dry Aga white, semi-sweet Alexandria white, semi-sweet Rosé, light Aga Red,and solera-aged fortified wine Pino de Bali.

Sababay, the second oldest Balinese winery, was born in 2010 out of the urge to help local grapegrowers after Mrs Mulyati Gozali visited their farms. Set up in a cooperative framework, about 300 farmers provided local grapes Muscat St Vallier and Alphonse-Lavallée from some 80ha of vineyard in the north to make seven wines: White Velvet from 100% Muscat St Vallier（aka Belgia）, Pink Blossom Rosé, reds Black Velvet and Reserve Red, Moscato d’Bali,semi-sweet Ludisia and ruby port style Masscetti. Probably of its close involvement with the farming community, Eva Gozali, daughter and CEO, is super-excited that Sababay has been invited to partner with Wonderful Bali, the tourism body, to promote the island/country.

Isola Wine by Cantine-Balita, an Indonesia-Italy partnership,soon joined the duo in 2012. In addition to Muscat St Vallier and Alphonse-Lavallée, the winery also grows Malvasia Nera and some Syrah. At the moment, only three wines are made: Isola white（Moscato）, Isola Rosé and Isola Red.

Winemakers from all these wineries agree that growing grapes is the most challenging in Bali. James Kalleske, Australian winemaker at Hatten, said the company spent the first 10 years of trial and error to finally come to where it is today. Balinese vineyards use Pergola system, an overhead trellis where grapes are hung below the leaves. The system keeps workers shaded and cool, and at the same time protects the grapes from sunburn and rain. While the white varieties, Probolinggo Biru and Belgia grow reasonably well, the red Alphonse-Lavallée often struggle for phenolic ripeness.Hatten has a 10 ha R&D vineyard where James and researcher Jeremy Pramana experimented with over 40 varieties in Vertical Shoot Positioning (VSP) training and alternating long and short pruning to limit harvest to only once a year. Because of the high vigour, vines develop apical dominance where the distal few buds are most advanced comparing to those near the trunk head. Jeremy bent the cane upward to form an arc that slows down the flow of nutrients/water to the end of the cane enabling the nodes in the middle of the cane to develop properly. Tempranillo is a disaster but James is happy with the progress of Chenin Blanc and Syrah.

Nicolas Delacressonniere, the French winemaker at Sababay,echoed James. To improve grape quality, Sababay limits harvest to twice a year and does not pick in wet season. The farmers are compensated by receiving a higher price per kilogram of grapes.While Alphonse-Lavallée can be made into a delightful rosé, it is not ideal for a world-class red and therefore, like Hatten, Sababay is working with farmers to grow other varieties. Nicolas is tired of the old style thinking and rigid regulations in France that restrict competitiveness of French producers, and love the challenges in Bali as he has freehand to use innovative techniques to improve the wine quality. His motto is,‘yesterday’s innovation is today’s tradition’.

From the onset, Cantine Balita planted Malvasia Nera to give more colour to Alphonse-Lavallée and to increase fruitiness. Italian winemaker Giacomo Anselmi and assistant Agung Willys, while work closely with farmers to implement strict vineyard practices such as green pruning and restrict harvest to two times per year to improve grape ripening, also plan to experiment with other Italian varieties including Glera, Nero d’Avola and Primitivo to up the quality of wine.

Indonesia has 90% import duty on wine and there are also excise and GST. Considering the fact that average income of Indonesian middle class is around US$250/month, even very basic entry level imported wine, retailed between 360k-400k rupiah (US$25-28) per bottle, is a luxury item for most locals.Holidaymakers also find wine too expensive comparing to their home countries. Balinese wine, at around US$20 per bottle, therefore is an attractive option for them. All these three wineries cited local market is their focus, with the majority of sales come from Bali, Jakarta trailed behind.

When there is a will, there is a way. Round about 2000,producers were determined to make quality wine from only international grapes to compete with imported wine. Instead of planting vines in Bali, they import raw materials from other grape growing countries and process them in Bali. Australian Mitch Hayhow from Cape Discovery explained that on one hand there are surplus grapes in some wine producing countries and on another hand, there are emerging countries that are asking for reasonably priced quality wine. What he does is to bring these two sides together. Cape Discovery imports frozen musts and clarified juice from vineyards in West Australia, the US and New Zealand and make wine on demand. Mitch said that even though he is not making terroir-driven wine, he has people on the ground to make sure the grapes are harvested according to his specifications. His goal is to make good quality wine focus on varietal distinction. Priced between Balinese wine and entry level imported wine, it won universal approval on price to quality ratio from a group of Malaysian wine professionals including importers, sommeliers and educators that I showed the wine to. Cape Discovery wines also won a few medals from international wine competition including Cathay Pacific Hong Kong International Wine & Spirit Competition. As a matter of fact,Hatten Wine also has a second label called Two Islands where wines are made from imported Australian juice.

Plaga Wine is another producer taking advantage of the much lower import duty of non-alcohol raw materials to make wine in Bali.Headed by a spanish speaking team including marketer Juan Diaz from Chile, winemakers Plabo Gonzalez from Argentina and Jordi Moreno from Spain, the company imports both grape concentrate and juice from Central Valley in Chile, Sicily in Italy, and La Mancha in Spain with on-the-ground quality control at harvest. Plaga’s primary target is young Indonesian and the retail price is in par with locally grown wine. In the true Latin spirit, their message is upbeat—— to have fun and celebrate anytime, anywhere. Juan showed me the video of the soon-to-be-released Moscato and I have to say it is spot on in engaging his consumers.

There will always be debate about making wine using grapes from third countries. However, grapes are often transported from across regions to the cellars for processing. Transporting musts and juice in frozen state should in theory preserve the quality (and some may even argue preserving terroir). Urban wineries where grapes are sourced often from different countries are sprouting in metropolitan cities such as London, Sydney, Vancouver and Washington’ and we have our own Urban Project in Hong Kong. If consumers think urban winery is hip, there should be nothing wrong with Cape Discovery,Two Islands and Plaga.

After discussing with the winemakers, observing the local market and trying all the wines, I can only respect these Balinese wineries and what they are doing. Like other Asian countries,Indonesia has not developed wine culture yet and imported wine is largely beyond the reach of average consumers. However, these should not stop curious locals to taste and enjoy wine without feeling intimidated. Alphonse-Lavallée or Belgia may not be mainstream wine but so be it if Indonesian like them. If wine made from imported raw materials is as good as wine made from grapes in the same country, why should we challenge it? It’s much better than a lot of products making from synthetic materials. Perhaps the wine industry is lagging behind other industry in terms of creativity and innovation?