一座舊糧倉(cāng)的新故事

浦子

這個(gè)故事發(fā)生在國(guó)家級(jí)生態(tài)縣寧?？h。

其實(shí)在原國(guó)家旅游局公布的首批創(chuàng)建“國(guó)家全域旅游示范區(qū)”名單中，就有寧海。全域旅游是指在一定區(qū)域內(nèi)，以旅游業(yè)帶動(dòng)和促進(jìn)經(jīng)濟(jì)社會(huì)協(xié)調(diào)發(fā)展的一種新的區(qū)域協(xié)調(diào)發(fā)展理念和模式。

寧海縣按照全域旅游的要素，進(jìn)行全方位的創(chuàng)建工作。其中的民宿發(fā)展更是贏得驕人成績(jī)，被贊為“寧波民宿看寧?！?。寧海民宿建設(shè)工作圍繞改革、布局、品牌、運(yùn)作等“十看”導(dǎo)向，著力樹立民宿經(jīng)濟(jì)標(biāo)桿，成功獲評(píng)5家市級(jí)特色客棧。至2017年，已成立4個(gè)民宿行業(yè)協(xié)會(huì)。全年新增南溪拾貳憶、南山楠、花源里、鄉(xiāng)敘王干山等民宿101家，其中精品民宿22家，帶動(dòng)農(nóng)副產(chǎn)品銷售超過6億元。寧?？h因此獲評(píng)浙江省全域旅游示范縣創(chuàng)建先進(jìn)單位、全國(guó)十佳生態(tài)旅游城市。

那天，有些陽(yáng)光照著。我驅(qū)車走進(jìn)一家民宿。這里以前叫大麥塘糧站，現(xiàn)在墻上鐫著“九熹·大樂之野糧倉(cāng)度假酒店”，當(dāng)?shù)厝肆?xí)慣稱它為“糧倉(cāng)客?！?。

鄉(xiāng)里專門派了鄉(xiāng)旅游辦的副主任陳佩瑤陪同。我事先知道，這是縣旅委規(guī)劃牽頭，由胡陳鄉(xiāng)引進(jìn)的旅游項(xiàng)目，縣旅投直接投資建設(shè)，并引進(jìn)了酒店業(yè)的管理團(tuán)隊(duì)具體承包經(jīng)營(yíng)。

在這個(gè)地方還被稱為糧站的時(shí)候，建在這里的糧站，背山臨溪，門前有一條公路通過，就如同建在糧田的正中。

大麥塘，令人想起四周皆麥。在附近的丘陵，山上植麥，田里種稻。麥香稻熟時(shí)，就是這里最熱鬧的時(shí)刻。

我到的時(shí)間，應(yīng)該是晚稻收割后。

在我的幻覺里，這時(shí)田里的晚稻已經(jīng)收割，在生產(chǎn)隊(duì)的曬場(chǎng)上曬干了。曬稻谷早年用的是竹簟，后來用的水泥地。我童年時(shí)經(jīng)常幫大人攤竹簟和卷竹簟。將卷緊的竹簟攤開時(shí)，覺得鋪開了一個(gè)莫名的世界。將鋪開的竹簟卷起時(shí)，覺得將很多東西包含在其中。曬谷的大多是女性，她們將曬干的谷子放到木制的風(fēng)車斗上，經(jīng)風(fēng)車將谷子中的癟殼去除了，一籮籮飽滿的谷子被男人挑到糧站來。

先交公糧，社員的口糧后分。那一種愛國(guó)的熱情啊，讓現(xiàn)今的人直是詫異，但那是事實(shí)，是我親眼所見。

前幾年，縣里為了拍攝《十里紅妝》的宣傳片，曾經(jīng)讓許多人穿著紅衣抬著紅色的嫁妝走過附近的一座有名的石橋（戌己橋）。那是拍電視，一般家庭哪有如此排場(chǎng)。而真實(shí)的場(chǎng)景，應(yīng)該是生產(chǎn)隊(duì)的社員挑著飽滿的充滿陽(yáng)光香氣的谷子，排成一長(zhǎng)排，挑到對(duì)岸的大麥塘糧站交公糧。

我拭了一下眼睛，朝大門里走去。里邊的糧倉(cāng)一排排，墻壁刷得白白的。一扇倉(cāng)門開著，從倉(cāng)門往里看了一眼，里面早被改造成酒店的客房。原來的一個(gè)倉(cāng)庫(kù)，有了很多客房。只是那個(gè)客房門口，掛了玉米穗作為裝飾，金黃色的，十分的吉祥喜氣。

這是一個(gè)曾經(jīng)儲(chǔ)存勞作者汗水和豐收喜悅的地方，怎能不讓人倍增親切感呢？相信很多人會(huì)沖著這個(gè)原因而喜歡。他們的子孫，會(huì)沖著長(zhǎng)輩的喜歡而喜歡。

最讓人稱道的是，一般酒店客房均以數(shù)字作為編號(hào)，而眼前，則冠以“谷子”“大麥”“小麥”“高粱”“玉米”等糧食的名稱。

今年初聯(lián)系這里的經(jīng)理龔雋時(shí)，得知酒店已經(jīng)試營(yíng)業(yè)，馬上要正式開張了。酒店的建筑設(shè)計(jì)師叫汪瑩，據(jù)說她遵循“尊崇自然”的原則，改造時(shí)對(duì)老建筑的風(fēng)韻最大程度地予以保留。保留，體現(xiàn)原建筑的風(fēng)韻;改造，則是添加了現(xiàn)代的建筑元素，以適應(yīng)現(xiàn)代人對(duì)于酒店或居所的要求。

這是兩難，就看分寸拿捏的水準(zhǔn)。而她做到了，至少我是認(rèn)可的。

我繼續(xù)朝前走去。里邊也有陽(yáng)光。原以為庫(kù)房是口字形排列，在進(jìn)了一半以后，有一排房子在中間隔了一下，就如日字，只是中間一橫沒有到頭。

有一個(gè)那個(gè)年代留下的水塔，圓桶型，上粗下細(xì)，被刷成白白的。這個(gè)水塔自然是公家才配有的，當(dāng)年連公社機(jī)關(guān)也沒有。用水泵將水從井里抽到塔里，再由塔中通過水管供應(yīng)各處的用水。想起童年去糧站，最想的是到“自來水”水龍頭去放水。同樣的井水，從這里流出的就帶有貴氣。許多孩子與我一樣，立誓長(zhǎng)大后，一定要到有水龍頭的單位去上班。

隨便進(jìn)入一個(gè)客房?？错斏?，還是原來的三角結(jié)構(gòu)屋頂，那些木栓，一根根頂著上面的磚，磚上的瓦雖是原貌，但作了細(xì)細(xì)的加固。比如原來是漏風(fēng)的，不隔熱?，F(xiàn)在，既不漏風(fēng)，又隔熱。看地面，沒有一般酒店常有的木地板。糧倉(cāng)里原有的地面得到了保留。為了糧食的除濕，原來的地面就作了這方面的處理。我真是佩服設(shè)計(jì)師汪瑩。我支持她的建筑設(shè)計(jì)原則，她的建筑設(shè)計(jì)原則不是目前各地上演的大拆大建。

客房里的布置十分簡(jiǎn)單。床、桌、椅加衛(wèi)廁。家具、電器的風(fēng)格也是如此。而簡(jiǎn)單是美學(xué)的至高點(diǎn)。

走到底排再往回走的時(shí)候，發(fā)現(xiàn)了露天的泳池，還有綠草茵茵的大草坪。泳池是供游客嬉水的。大草坪是供游客做燒烤或戶外活動(dòng)的。酒店還可提供附近的鄉(xiāng)村游和果蔬采摘。這泳池和草坪是原先的糧站所沒有的。我這才想到是經(jīng)過了改造的。

一間客房里有人聲傳出來。我們順便拐進(jìn)門，原來是酒店在開展員工培訓(xùn)，教導(dǎo)如何疊被子鋪床單之類的知識(shí)。一問，這些員工都是附近村莊的，較年輕。我想，她們的父親或者爺爺以前年輕時(shí)應(yīng)該經(jīng)常來這里，他們是挑著飽滿的谷子，過了磅秤，直接挑進(jìn)庫(kù)里。這里，曾經(jīng)裝滿了山似的谷子，彌漫著濃郁的谷子香。

我有一個(gè)驚人的發(fā)現(xiàn)，原來糧倉(cāng)的墻壁洞開了，裝了落地玻璃。這里該是客房的陽(yáng)臺(tái)位置，一張?zhí)梢蝺?yōu)雅地橫放在那里。還有，一只巨大的瓷質(zhì)浴缸，就放置在距躺椅不遠(yuǎn)的地方，當(dāng)中沒有阻隔。眼下，落地玻璃窗是沒有窗簾的。西斜的陽(yáng)光毫無阻擋地長(zhǎng)驅(qū)直入，窗外是田野山地樹木，連枝杈上的鳥窩也看得清。一只鳥追趕著另一只鳥，最后那只鳥終于伏在另一只鳥的鳥背上。

駕車駛出糧倉(cāng)客棧，遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)地，我回了一次頭。

看上去就是糧倉(cāng)啊。走到里邊，整個(gè)框架仍然是糧倉(cāng)，連風(fēng)韻都沒有變?？墒牵?xì)節(jié)有變，局部有了較大變化。這不變，是為了吸引眾多曾經(jīng)經(jīng)歷過這段歷史的人來這里;變化，是為了吸引更多追求樸野新奇的人。這與我們這個(gè)社會(huì)驚人的相似：堅(jiān)持基本制度不動(dòng)搖，而改革和創(chuàng)新讓社會(huì)取得突飛猛進(jìn)的變化。

這設(shè)計(jì)師原來懂得社會(huì)科學(xué)哦，反正不僅僅是美學(xué)那樣簡(jiǎn)單。

這糧倉(cāng)客棧，有了這些因素，非紅火興隆不可。

The other day I visited the Granary Holiday Inn in a village in Ninghai， a county under the jurisdiction of Ningbo in eastern Zhejiang. I chose to visit the hotel for several reasons. A rural county featuring a fine ecological system， Ninghai is putting resources into the development of rural tourism. It is on the countrys first list of demonstration regions for whole-region tourism， issued in February 2016. Whole-region tourism is defined as a regional development model where all the social and economic resources are geared in coordination to offer tourism attractions and tourism is considered the primary driving force for local development.

To boost rural tourism， the county has launched a building project to have village hotels developed so as to cater to tourists from cities. In 2017， 101 village hotels were added to the local hospitality industry. The year saw the total revenue of the village hotels reach 160 million yuan. Moreover， the rural hotel industry in Ninghai helped local villages sell farming products in 600 million yuan last year.

The old structure used to be known as Damaitang Granary. Though the refurbished affair has a fancy new name， local people refer to it as Granary Hotel.

The granary was built in the years when local farmers paid the agricultural tax in the form of grain. Such state-run granaries could be seen all over the country. The agricultural tax， which had been levied in China for over 2，000 years， was scrapped officially in 2005， an epoch-making farewell to the past. Then， many granaries across the country became empty and idle. The granary in Damaitang was just such a structure that fell into disuse and disrepair.

Thanks to the new development blueprint formulated by the county government， the granary has made this comeback. The renovation project was funded by the tourism authority of the county. Early this year， I made a phone call to Gong Jun， manager of the granary hotel. The hotel was then in a trial operation and was about to launch itself into business. From Gong， I learned that the design was masterminded by architect Wang Ying. She followed a principle called “respect to nature” in this project.

My visit to the granary hotel indicates that the nature of the old granary is indeed well respected. A big chunk of the past is well preserved. Some modern amenities are now in place so that the new hotel can function smoothly.

The granary compound is spacious. The hotel has 21 rooms ranging from standard rooms to suites. I stepped into a room and took a look. The ground floor， originally paved to prevent moisture from the underground， is well reserved and no wood flooring was introduced. But the ceiling structure is well insulated so that no winds may come in and no heat may go out through the ceiling. The furniture and inner decoration and electrical appliances are all in a minimalist style， which appeal delightfully to me. This room has a big window through which I saw a deck chair and a bath tub. The window didnt have a curtain yet. The slanting sunshine came through into the room. I looked out the window and saw distant hillside， woods and farmland.

To my surprise， the hotel has a swimming pool and a large lawn where people can make barbecue or have a picnic. The two amenities are new additions， which the old granary didnt have. A water tower， a legacy of yesteryears， still stands. Its whitewashed drum shape gleamed in the sunlight. In the bygone past， the water tower in the state-run facilities signified something privileged and unique in this part of the rural Haining. Water was pumped into the tall tower and then distributed to all the faucets in the compound. Even the local town government couldnt afford this luxury.

As I strolled around， I heard someone speaking in a room. I peeped in and it was a training program. New employees were learning how to make the bed. It turned out that the young trainees were local residents from neighboring villages.

I took a distant look from afar on my way away from the hotel compound. The whole structure looked like a granary. It didnt change a bit but it was brand new. It occurred to me that the granary hotel was like a metaphor signifying what the whole society was： the structural foundation remains unchanged， but there are striking changes if you take a closer look.