瑞安古老民俗凝風(fēng)情

肖璋

瑞安作為全國100個“千年古縣”之一，早在三國吳赤烏二年（公元239年）始建羅陽縣，后幾經(jīng)更名，唐天復(fù)二年（公元902年），因有白烏棲城北集云山，以為祥瑞，詔改名為瑞安縣，沿用至今已1100多年。

千年的歷史積淀，使瑞安流傳在民間的民俗豐富多彩，曾有古老民謠：“正月燈，二月鳶，三月麥稈當(dāng)鬼叫。四月田螺密密旋，五月龍船兩頭翹。六月六，洗狗禿。七月七，巧食雜‘麥麥。八月八，月餅餡芝麻，九月九，登糕滿搗臼。十月十，吃柑橘，十一月，吃湯圓，十二月，糖糕印狀元?！倍Ａ舯容^完整的有曹村正月鬧花燈、攔垟福、二月二芥菜飯、鮑田“百家宴”等。

流光溢彩曹村正月鬧花燈

家家張燈結(jié)彩，戶戶燈籠高掛，村莊被映襯得五彩繽紛，如今每年的元宵節(jié)，200多年出82進(jìn)士的“中華進(jìn)士第一村”——瑞安市曹村鎮(zhèn)都會有80多臺大型花燈、6000多盞燈籠將大地裝飾成一片美麗的燈海。在正月十五那夜，曹村元宵燈會開始巡游各村活動，會有舞龍、舞獅、腰鼓、鰲魚、抬閣、七星、旱船，有踩高蹺的，有扮八仙的，有扮狀元騎馬過街的，還有在溫州一帶特別流傳的8種瑞獸組成的“八蠻”彩燈隊，巡游隊伍每到村口都會停下來表演。

這時，來賞燈的人越來越多，從城里來的，鄰近村的，把曹村圍得水泄不通，常常達(dá)數(shù)萬，直到子夜12時，人才散了。

相傳曹村元宵鬧花燈起于南宋紹熙年間，曹村人曹叔遠(yuǎn)中進(jìn)士后回鄉(xiāng)探親，鄉(xiāng)里人專門制作一盞福星燈掛在村中金鎖橋上，以表慶賀。而掛燈那天正值正月十五元宵節(jié)，元宵掛燈的習(xí)俗相傳下來，越過越鬧熱，至今已有800年歷史。

而元宵鬧花燈的風(fēng)俗原本在瑞安已是歷史悠久，清嘉慶《瑞安縣志》載：“通衢上編結(jié)彩幕，張燈，放小焰火，各里社廟尤盛。十三日謂之試燈，十四至十六日謂之正燈，十七謂之殘燈，簫鼓歌吹之聲，喧闐達(dá)旦，男女雜沓，致煩禁飭?！薄稖刂莞尽访枋觯骸叭鸢埠余l(xiāng)一帶賽會迎燈，惟曹村、梅崗首屈一指。是晚花籃之燈約數(shù)百盞，人物紙燈亦百余盞，極其工巧?！蹦纤嗡枷爰?、文學(xué)家、政論家葉適的《元夕》詩云：“艾褐家綢闊闊裁，抱孫攜子看燈來”。

田野上鬧新春“攔垟?！?/p>

每年新春正月初九和正月廿十，是瑞安市桐浦鎮(zhèn)一年一度的“十八社攔垟?！焙吞丈芥?zhèn)碧山一年一度的“十三社攔垟福”民俗活動日子。當(dāng)天凌晨時分，村民組成的巡游隊伍一路來游遍舊時稱的十八社和十三社村莊，以祈盼在新一年給民眾帶來農(nóng)漁業(yè)豐收、國泰民安。攔垟福民俗活動，是紀(jì)念當(dāng)?shù)啬茉诤Ｉ献o(hù)民護(hù)漁的海神——陶山鎮(zhèn)碧山渡頭村楊精義（楊府爺），相傳此項活動始于宋代，已有近千年歷史，被列入第四批瑞安市非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)名錄。

“攔垟?！庇置皵r垟”，是溫州農(nóng)村地區(qū)的農(nóng)民除蟲害祈福豐收的一種民間祭祀風(fēng)俗形式。在特定或選擇的好日子里，一般是幾個村村民聯(lián)合在鄉(xiāng)村社廟進(jìn)行祈福活動，祈畢后，村民抬著廟中社神像，在各處田垟（稻田間）巡游，特別是在有嚴(yán)重蟲害的田垟邊巡游一周，求社神驅(qū)除蟲害，祈保豐年。舊時巡游后要禁垟數(shù)日，村民不得出門。

臨近攔垟?；顒拥娜兆?，桐浦鎮(zhèn)和陶山鎮(zhèn)碧山各個村莊就忙碌起來，每個村莊村口都早早搭起花門竹牌樓，結(jié)上紅彩，懸掛彩旗，掛起精美珠燈。沿街家家戶戶從樓頂掛下長長的“紅綢”，系上松柏、柑橘、萬年青，掛起大紅燈籠。這幾天，家中的主婦們也會上街購置食品，定做米塑大壽桃等，做好各項準(zhǔn)備工作。

攔垟福活動開展那天的凌晨時分，碧山攔垟福巡游隊伍由鑼手和號手鳴鑼開道，村民抬著楊府爺神像行走，從碧山寺出發(fā)巡游到各村。巡游隊伍一到村口，隨行的高音喇叭就響起，傳出對新春佳節(jié)的美好祝福。此時此刻參加巡游隊伍的人們，跳起了優(yōu)美的千手觀音舞、滾起龍鳳呈祥的舞龍、舞著戲曲打扮封神榜人物、擎舞起了百家姓的彩旗。在沿村的田野邊、道路上，人頭攢動、熱鬧非凡，原本充滿節(jié)日氣息的村莊一下子沸騰起來。

瑞安鄉(xiāng)間田野上的鬧新春“攔垟福”活動極具民間民俗風(fēng)情，它不但增添了傳統(tǒng)春節(jié)的節(jié)日氣氛，也讓鄉(xiāng)親們一起享受民間傳統(tǒng)文化的歡樂。

富有特色的二月二芥菜飯

每年的農(nóng)歷二月二，瑞安市曹村鎮(zhèn)許岙村村民專門在村頭支起大爐灶，用1500公斤芥菜、750公斤米和200公斤豬肉等食材做成芥菜飯，免費(fèi)分發(fā)給村民和游客，傳統(tǒng)的農(nóng)歷二月二吃芥菜飯融入濃濃的愛心。如今每到農(nóng)歷二月二，在村委會、社區(qū)和文化禮堂中，做芥菜飯免費(fèi)分發(fā)給村民、居民和游客，已成為當(dāng)?shù)匾粋€體現(xiàn)大家庭關(guān)懷和滿溢溫情的精神文明建設(shè)品牌。

自古以來，溫州地區(qū)民間每逢農(nóng)歷二月二，家家戶戶都要煮綠白相間、口味宜人的芥菜飯吃。據(jù)說這一天吃芥菜飯，既不生疥瘡，也不生瘟病，而且還能明目。大家一起吃著熱騰騰的芥菜飯，其樂融融，極具農(nóng)家生活氣息，形成特有的二月二吃芥菜飯風(fēng)俗。

而有民間傳說，吃芥菜飯來自一次乾隆皇帝微服察訪民情。舊時，二月的江南春意盎然，乾隆皇帝在江南微服察訪民情時，一天來到浙南一農(nóng)戶家中。在家苦讀詩書的張某熱情好客，便請乾隆皇帝吃頓便飯。因家境貧困，正當(dāng)準(zhǔn)備做飯時，張某發(fā)現(xiàn)米缸里的米不夠吃，又沒菜肴。張某靈機(jī)一動，叫其妻先準(zhǔn)備開火燒飯，自己從后門出去到菜園里剝來一把碧綠幼嫩的芥菜，加點佐料炒熟，和少量的白米飯合煮成一鍋綠中夾白的芥菜飯。乾隆皇帝平時吃慣了山珍海味，而此時他的肚子里早已饑腸轆轆，一聞到這芳香撲鼻的芥菜飯，食欲大增，吃得津津有味，并贊不絕口，連問這綠里夾白的飯是怎么做的。張的妻子也不言家中貧困，笑著回答說：“這叫芥菜飯，吃了不會生疥瘡?！?/p>

這天，剛巧是農(nóng)歷二月初二，大概是皇帝吃過芥菜飯，從此二月二吃芥菜飯的習(xí)俗便在溫州和瑞安民間流傳了下來。瑞安《民國瑞安縣志》清楚地記載著：“取芥菜煮飯食之，云能明目，蓋取清精之義”。二月二吃芥菜飯是浙南溫州民間廣為流傳的習(xí)俗應(yīng)該無疑。endprint

溫州瑞安特有二月二芥菜飯的主料：晚米、芥菜、豬五花肉。輔料：蝦皮、香菇、豬油、香菜、紅蘿卜、鹽等。剛出鍋的芥菜飯香甘爽口，別有風(fēng)味；盛在碗里，綠白相間，色彩和質(zhì)感都很好。

鮑田行善濟(jì)人的“百家宴”

每年的農(nóng)歷正月廿八，是瑞安市塘下鎮(zhèn)鮑田舉辦一年一度“百家宴”的日子。這天的活動，又稱“活佛娘娘”壽誕。鮑田戴氏后裔都會不遠(yuǎn)萬里趕回老家，邀請周邊的親戚朋友，一起迎佛接福，祈求祥和富庶平安，共進(jìn)百家盛宴。

據(jù)戴氏后裔戴巖娒介紹，鮑田的“百家宴”始于700多年前的宋朝，是一項紀(jì)念當(dāng)?shù)卮魇舷荣t戴如行善濟(jì)人、扶危助困和村民祈福風(fēng)調(diào)雨順、五谷豐登、國泰民安的民俗活動。其民俗于2013年10月16日入選瑞安市第六批非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)項目。

每年正值農(nóng)歷正月廿八，塘下鎮(zhèn)鮑田村民們就會在村口擺起了四桌八仙方桌的供臺，上面擺放著菜頭（彩頭）、芹菜（方言同“賺錢”諧音）、炊糕、粽子（意“高中”），及蘋果、索面、瓜子、花生、桂圓、紅棗、糖果等食品，各種供品達(dá)24禮（樣），寄托著他們對先賢戴如的敬意，對未來的美好生活的祈愿。

上午，“活佛娘娘”壽誕踩街巡游隊伍經(jīng)過的時候，村民開始迎佛接福，祝愿新年五谷豐登，風(fēng)調(diào)雨順。村民們用傳統(tǒng)的習(xí)俗文化，憧憬未來生活。

隨著沿村踩街巡游的進(jìn)行，塘下鎮(zhèn)鮑田鮑一、鮑二、鮑三、鮑四等村的街道上，已是一路掛滿了紅燈籠彩旗，房屋掛滿紅色彩帶，村口搭起了彩樓迎接巡游隊伍。巡游隊伍從鮑田的真身禪寺開始，一路上人們手灑凈水，鳴鑼開道，彩牌燈籠引路，吹班樂隊響起，腰鼓笙聲高奏，此時此刻隊伍經(jīng)過的村莊已是人山人海。

戴氏后裔每年的巡游結(jié)束，村里早準(zhǔn)備了祠堂飯，而近年來祠堂飯漸漸演變成了各相鄰村民和游客的大聚餐，成為增進(jìn)交流和友誼的盛大聚會，被稱為“百家宴”?！鞍偌已纭币还惨咸鹋疵罪?、什錦菜、三鮮湯、玉米排骨、腰果炒芹菜等10道素菜，都是用大米、豆腐和蔬菜做出來的，每年菜單基本相同。中午時分，在鮑田的鮑一、鮑二、鮑三、鮑四等村的街道上，迎來百家姓氏赴盛宴的壯觀場面。只見紅色的木制圓桌沿街一路排開，眾人圍坐在一起邊吃邊說笑著，共同享受大家庭特別的愛、特別的親情和友情。

Ruian： Ancient County， Ancient Folk Custom

By Xiao Zhang

Ruian， a county-level city in southeastern Zhejiang， is one of the nations 100 counties whose have been in the government administrative system for more than 1，000 years. It became Luoyang County in 239 AD and changed its name several times. In 902， it changed its name to Ruian with an imperial decree after white magpies alighted in a mountain north of the county capital and was considered an auspicious sign. The name Ruian is 1，116 years old now.

Ancient Ruian has generated and maintained quite a few folk celebrations and customs. The following are several still well preserved and observed in Ruian.

Lantern Festival in Cao Village

The tradition started in the Southern Song Dynasty （1127-1279）. As local legend has it， Cao Shuyuan from Cao Village came out as in a triennial court exam. He returned to the village on the fifteenth day of the first month. To welcome back the village hero and express congratulations， villagers made a lantern and hang it high above a bridge in the center of the village. The tradition formed. Since then， making lanterns and demonstrating them on the fifteenth day of the first month on the lunar calendar has been around for over 800 years. In fact， Cao Village is indisputably the nations number one village in terms of producing ， best scholars who made their names in court exams. Over 200 years， the village produced 82.endprint

Nowadays， Lantern Festival at Cao Village is spectacular. Usually there are about 80 large-scale lanterns in the shape of legendary figures， flowers， animals and 6，000 small lanterns. On the Lantern Festival， a parade goes through Cao Village and goes to neighboring villages. Among the entertainers of the parade are dragon dancers， lion dancers， waist-drum dancers， dry-boat dancers， lanterns in the eight species of auspicious animals in regional folk legends， and many other local entertainers.

Lanyang Parade in Farmlands

Two places in Ruian hold this annual parade in the first month of year. Tongpu Town stages the parade on the ninth day whereas Taoshan Town on the 20th day. The former goes through a tightly associated rural community of eighteen villages and the latter entertains a community of 13 villages. Lanyang Parade honors Yang Jingyi， a folk-hero-turned god in local folk faith that first emerged in the Song Dynasty.

To prepare for the big parade， each village installs a festive archway at the entrance to the village and decorates it with flowers， red festoons and colored banners and strings of electric lamps. All the houses along the parade route have red silk streamers hanging from the rooftop down. The facades of these houses are decorated with pine twigs， oranges， evergreen plants and red lanterns. Housewives also purchase sacrifices， to be presented on a table in front of the house.

The parade starts in the early morning. At the head of the parade is a statue of Lord Yang carried by villagers. The parade visits all the villages in the community in turn. The parade also goes through farmlands to ensure that crops will be protected from bad insects in the year. For each of the two communities， one village organizes and stages an annual parade in turn for the whole community.

Stay-Healthy Meal

On the second day of the second month on lunar calendar， households across Wenzhou prepare and eat a stay-healthy meal. The tradition started in ancient times. In Xuao Village， Ruian， residents now prepare such a meal and provide the meal to fellow villages and tourists free of charge. The meal， made of 1，200 kg Chinese mustard， 750 kg rice and 200 kg pork as main ingredients， is distributed at the villages administration office， community center， and cultural center. As local legends have it， the incognito Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty （1644-1911）， was treated to such a meal during one of his southern royal inspections.

Village Banquet

Baotian Village holds a village banquet on the 28th day of the first month on the lunar calendar. The tradition started in the Southern Song Dynasty （1127-1279） to honor some ancestors of the Dai Family for their generosity. On the big day， the members of the clan come from all over Ruian to meet each other. A parade goes through the village first. Then a banquet is given at the clans memorial temple. Over years， the temple banquet has evolved. Nowadays， tables are arranged in a long row in a street and Dai descendents meet fellow villagers of other surnames. They eat happily. Tourists from neighboring villages and other parts of Ruian often join in. The menu for the banquet has not changed much over years. Vegans would probably like the banquet： most dishes are of vegetables， tofu， sticky rice， nuts.endprint