德壽宮的一天

陳華勝

轉(zhuǎn)眼間，杭州望江路北側(cè)杭州方志館旁的德壽宮遺址在圍墻封閉施工中已經(jīng)掩不住地露出了飛檐翹角的一些端倪。自2020年12月28日開工以來，德壽宮恢復(fù)工程進(jìn)展順利。根據(jù)規(guī)劃，德壽宮遺址保護(hù)展示工程暨南宋博物院（一期）將在2022年建成，并對公眾開放。

德壽宮是宋高宗退位后居住的宮殿，也是南宋臨安城僅次于皇城的重要宮苑。這座沉睡了數(shù)百年的德壽宮，即將揭開“皇城”的神秘面紗。那么，800多年前皇帝的“退休生活”是怎樣的？

晨曦微露，朝天門（鼓樓）城樓的四更鼓聲剛剛敲過，在候潮門外，就有無數(shù)經(jīng)紀(jì)行販，挑著擔(dān)兒，等著城門打開。有唱曲兒的，也有說閑話的，也有做小買賣的。城外大路上，也出現(xiàn)了稀稀拉拉的人影，挑柴的、賣米的、售花的、販菜的……向高聳在殘月下黑黝黝的城樓移動。

這樣挨了一陣子，一片清脆而有節(jié)奏的鐵牌和木魚聲即從四面八方驟然響起，撕破拂曉前的寂靜，揭開了南宋京城一天的序幕。

五更時分（凌晨3—5點）城門打開，街市便鬧忙起來。火星迸濺處，有人在打石升炊，城內(nèi)大大小小的吃食店和茶坊開始升起飄散著誘人香味的白色氣團(tuán)。那塞滿城內(nèi)河道的船隊也蠕動起來，一早要出城的船只，忙著擠出行列。賣洗面湯的鋪子也開張營業(yè)了。賣洗面湯是宋代市井街頭的一個特色，就是提供洗臉?biāo)褪谒?。一些市井的小民早晨起床后就直接出了家門，來到這些攤位前洗臉、漱口，整個城市就好像一個集體宿舍。吃食鋪的點心、粥飯也已經(jīng)出鍋出籠，連酒店也點著燈燭來沽賣早點，熱熱乎乎地吃上一碗，每份不過二十文，一天的日子就這么開始，市井的喧鬧聲也隨著天光甚囂塵上了。

67歲的太上皇趙構(gòu)從睡夢中自然醒來，舒適地伸了一個懶腰，遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)地隱約聽到了頭陀報曉的聲音，似乎還聽到“今日四參”那么一句。

原本住在皇宮大內(nèi)中是聽不到行者頭陀報曉聲的，宮中自有內(nèi)侍報道更漏。這種人有個專門的名稱叫“雞人”，雞人報時自然要優(yōu)雅、斯文得多，但現(xiàn)在搬出來住到了天街旁邊望仙橋東的德壽宮，市井的聲音便不時地飄進(jìn)耳朵里來了。說實話，趙構(gòu)還是蠻享受這種市井氣息的。

德壽宮原本是高宗欽賜給宰相秦檜的大宅，想當(dāng)年君臣相得，為了表彰秦檜主持和議之功，高宗還書賜了“一德格天之閣”的匾額。可不久，君臣之間的蜜月期就過去了，秦檜的權(quán)焰熏天也讓官家（皇帝）頗為忌憚，到后來，官家上朝的時候甚至要在靴子里暗藏一把匕首以備不測了。好在這位讓趙構(gòu)又愛又恨的權(quán)相終于先他而去，到了當(dāng)今官家（宋孝宗）即位，更是將秦檜的謚號改為“謬丑”，來了個全盤否定。作為罪臣，秦府的宅第當(dāng)然也收歸國有了。為了表示孝敬，官家特地對秦府舊宅進(jìn)行了大規(guī)模的擴(kuò)建改造，并定名為德壽宮，作為太上皇頤養(yǎng)天年的地方。

趙構(gòu)沒有親生兒子，當(dāng)今官家是宋太祖一脈的子孫，被趙構(gòu)領(lǐng)養(yǎng)來作的兒子。因為不是親生兒子，就越發(fā)要表現(xiàn)得孝順，平常時節(jié)，只要不是上朝，官家都會早早地來德壽宮給太上皇請安，這十幾年來都是如此。但趙構(gòu)此刻分明聽到頭陀口中“今日四參”的吆喝聲。

宋代上朝并不是每天都需要進(jìn)行的，否則皇帝與大臣都吃不消，所以，皇帝一般定下規(guī)矩，每月四天或兩天接見群臣。逢到這種日子，報曉的行者、頭陀就要加上一句：“今日四參！”或者“今日兩參！”以喚醒朝臣官員的沉沉酣夢，提醒他們不要錯過上朝時間。今天是朝會的日子，官家自然不會來德壽宮請安了，趙構(gòu)倒也覺得自在。辭了皇位當(dāng)太上皇，不就是圖個自在么！

內(nèi)侍、宮女們伺候完洗漱，簡簡單單地吃了一碗丁香餛飩——這是太上皇最喜歡的早點。趙構(gòu)在飲食用度上一向是節(jié)儉的，民間的野菜馬蘭頭還有湖里的螺螄也經(jīng)常是他御廚里的菜肴——趙構(gòu)就去伺候他的那群鴿子去了。

要說趙構(gòu)有什么業(yè)余愛好，養(yǎng)鴿子就是他最大的愛好。等到他退位當(dāng)了太上皇，更是以養(yǎng)鴿為退休生活的主要內(nèi)容，那些名貴的鴿子都是由他親自養(yǎng)，早晚收放鴿群也都親力親為，想想也是蠻辛苦的。

一陣鴿哨響起，大群的鴿子足系金鈴，帶著萬點金光和一片鏗鏘之聲，從德壽宮中的聚遠(yuǎn)樓飛出，掠空而去，白云蔽日。聚遠(yuǎn)樓是德壽宮后苑內(nèi)最為宏偉、高敞的建筑，借取蘇東坡的詩“賴有高樓能聚遠(yuǎn)，一時收拾與閑人”而命名。趙構(gòu)站在高樓上，望著這群心愛的寵物，心曠神怡。

說高宗皇帝有這份閑心，卻偏偏忘了被金國囚禁在白水黑土的父母妻兄，跟“山外青山樓外樓，西湖歌舞幾時休。暖風(fēng)熏得游人醉，直把杭州作汴州”是一個道理。后來，真的有個人寫了首鴿子詩，頗有些諷刺意思，趙構(gòu)倒還是蠻有度量的，看了這首詩后并沒有吹胡子瞪眼生氣，更沒有利用職權(quán)打擊報復(fù)，而是將那個寫詩的人收編到“麾下”，賞了他一個官做，把他也當(dāng)鴿子養(yǎng)起來了。

辦法不錯吧？不肯為五斗米折腰的畢竟是少數(shù)。

當(dāng)了三十六年皇帝，就這么點愛好還要被人閑話，想想也真是累！現(xiàn)在好了，歸政后當(dāng)太上皇，朝政大事可以撂一邊去了，放鴿子的心情都不一樣了。

放飛鴿子后，趙構(gòu)就站在高樓上眺望，皇宮前的嘉會門內(nèi)，廣場上樹立的一根五丈高的大旗桿上，升著一面碩大無朋的繡黃龍旗。今天果然是朝會的日子，趙構(gòu)可以想象此刻在他的腳下那條天街上文武百官坐轎騎馬趕進(jìn)皇宮去上朝的鬧忙景象，但這一切已經(jīng)跟他無關(guān)了。既然官家今天不會來德壽宮了，那么，他倒也要安排一下自己的生活。

趙構(gòu)突然想到了去游西湖。

算來，宋高宗應(yīng)該是西湖的第一位皇帝游客。禪位之后，更是西湖的常客。

其實，德壽宮里有一個小西湖。德壽宮的后苑都人稱為“北大內(nèi)”，因高宗雅好湖山之勝，故建后苑以為四時游覽之所。后苑內(nèi)“引水注之，以象西湖冷泉;壘石為山，作飛來峰”——連飛來峰、冷泉這樣的景觀都微縮了移植在德壽宮里，趙構(gòu)完全可以足不出戶遍賞風(fēng)月。但在宮里待得時間長了，畢竟有些氣悶，所以，趙構(gòu)還是決定出去散散心。

太上皇的旨意一下，德壽宮的內(nèi)侍、宮娥們自然歡心，殿前司的禁軍及應(yīng)奉諸司也早排好鑾駕，沿途護(hù)衛(wèi)一直到湖上。

天氣晴好，太上皇的龍舟在波光粼粼的西湖上閑蕩。

那時候的禁衛(wèi)還不像后來那么森嚴(yán)，帝王游湖，小民也同樣可以泛舟湖上，大家兩不相犯，君民同樂。說來也巧，當(dāng)日就有一個叫宋五嫂的女廚子也駕了一葉扁舟來湖上，向游客兜售她烹制的魚羹。

這位宋五嫂本是東京汴梁的民間女廚，曾在汴梁城里經(jīng)營菜館，以擅長制作魚羹而聞名汴京，因為嫁給宋家一位排行老五的人，所以人稱宋五嫂。金兵南侵，宋五嫂也算頗有民族氣節(jié)，不愿在異族鐵蹄下生活，跟著南遷隊伍來到了行在臨安。為了維持生計，她在西湖蘇堤旁駕一葉小舟穿梭湖上叫賣魚羹。

太上皇在游湖時，猛然想起過些日子就是放生節(jié)了，于是便命人用彩旗招來湖上那些捕釣魚鱉的船，內(nèi)侍大珰用上皇的內(nèi)帑向船家盡買龜魚，在湖中放生。

西湖放生，從宋朝開始就是杭城的民俗。據(jù)蘇東坡記載，國朝天僖年間，故宰相王欽若出知杭州，曾把西湖作為放生池，禁捕魚鳥，為大宋皇帝祈福祝壽。自此以后，每年的四月八日成了一個固定的放生節(jié)日，總有數(shù)萬杭州人聚集在西湖邊，放生的魚蝦蟲鳥數(shù)以百萬計。大家一邊放生，一邊遙望西北汴京方向，仰?；实矍f歲壽?，F(xiàn)而今，汴京已經(jīng)淪為膻腥之地，皇帝倒移駕來了西子湖邊，放生也要自己掏錢來做了，趙構(gòu)這么想著，心里多少有些滄桑的感覺。

來至錢塘門外，船泊蘇堤下，已經(jīng)時近中午。太上皇身邊服侍多年的老內(nèi)侍聽見有人以汴京口音在叫賣魚羹，不免多瞧了幾眼，認(rèn)出此人竟是當(dāng)年在東京汴梁經(jīng)營魚羹菜館的宋五嫂。也算是他鄉(xiāng)遇故知，老內(nèi)侍不禁悲從中來，偷偷拭淚。不想太上皇也正愴然，看到此景，便問老內(nèi)侍何事落淚。老內(nèi)侍具情相告，趙構(gòu)倒也想起了當(dāng)年在汴京時曾經(jīng)品嘗過名噪一時的魚羹，于是便命侍從用小彩旗招引，去買魚羹來吃。

宋五嫂也不認(rèn)得皇家的龍舟，只看到豪華舟艇上下來的人來買魚羹，估計是皇親國戚之類要人，于是就用心烹制了魚羹，親自送到龍舟上?？烊丝煺Z的宋五嫂并不認(rèn)得太上皇，見了趙構(gòu)毫不畏懼，還充滿自豪地說 ：“奴家本是東京汴梁人氏，是隨著圣駕來到這里的?！?/p>

太上皇聞聽此言，與那位老內(nèi)侍一樣，心中也油然升起他鄉(xiāng)遇故知的情懷，不勝唏噓。他一面享用魚羹，一面與宋五嫂聊起家鄉(xiāng)風(fēng)物人情，兩人居然相談甚歡。老年趙構(gòu)品嘗了這道頗具北宋東京風(fēng)味的魚羹后，所有的前塵往事都涌上心頭，感慨萬千，同時也對這位銀絲蒼老的宋五嫂產(chǎn)生了愛屋及烏的同情，特別賞賜紋銀百兩給宋五嫂，資助她重新開店經(jīng)營。

宋五嫂就地取材，以西湖鱖魚代替黃河鯉魚入羹的變通之法，以及南料北烹的特點，再加上宋高宗的名人效應(yīng)，使得這道宋嫂魚羹一舉成為杭州名菜，流傳了800多年。這當(dāng)然是后話了。

吃了宋嫂魚羹，嘗了幾塊內(nèi)侍們準(zhǔn)備的定勝糕，算是在湖上用了中餐。笙歌管弦中又游了一回湖，申時（相當(dāng)于今15—17時）捎泊花光亭，自有宰相、樞密使、參知政事及臨安府的一班從駕官在顯應(yīng)觀西齋堂侍班，各賜酒食、翠花扇子，宴罷回到德壽宮的時候已經(jīng)是掌燈時分。

壽圣太上皇后吳氏早在慈福殿等候。高宗的原配皇后邢氏在靖康年被北擄最終死于五國城，吳皇后是繼任的皇后。高宗的夫妻生活倒也恩愛，兩個人都雅好書法，高宗自稱五十年來，只要沒什么大事，沒有一天不寫字。這會兒，他們兩夫妻正聯(lián)手做一樁事：用工筆楷書抄寫“四書五經(jīng)”，頒布太學(xué)作為石刻樣板。

宋朝的皇帝多以書法見長。當(dāng)年太宗皇帝令王著精選摹刻《淳化閣帖》，此帖集歷代名家法書之大成，堪稱法書叢帖之祖。唯一有個小秘密，那就是其中不收顏真卿的字。據(jù)說，趙氏的先祖是安史之亂時史思明手下的大將，趙、顏兩家為世仇，所以趙宋皇帝不習(xí)顏體字。趙構(gòu)的書法既有徽宗“瘦金體”的家傳，又臨摹過鐘繇、王義之等人的書帖，還特別喜歡蘇東坡的書體，其筆下變化萬象，堪稱神品。為了投官家所好，后宮的妃子們也都練起了書法，其中以吳皇后悟性最好，她模仿官家的字體，幾能亂真。當(dāng)年，韓世忠曾購得《蘭亭帖》的摹本，發(fā)現(xiàn)筆意清逸頗有官家的風(fēng)格，就獻(xiàn)了上來。趙構(gòu)細(xì)辨后確認(rèn)是吳皇后的手跡，就讓他的小舅子吳益刊于石。

這會兒，趙構(gòu)在燈下已經(jīng)抄了好大一段《孝經(jīng)》，頗有些寫得累了，就讓吳皇后代寫一段。（由高宗夫婦撰寫的臨安太學(xué)石經(jīng)現(xiàn)今仍保存在杭州碑林。）趙構(gòu)則在一旁，端一杯宮女送來的“德壽宮私釀”新酒，抿一口，笑瞇瞇地看著……

One Day at the Deshou Palace

By? Chen Huasheng

Before you know it， you can already see some clues from the roof corner of the Deshou Palace， being reconstructed at its former ruins， through the gaps of the enclosing walls at the construction site. Since the project began on December 28， 2020， the restoration has progressed smoothly. According to plan， the Preservation and Exhibition Project of the Deshou Palace Ruins and the Southern Song Dynasty Museum （Phase I） will be completed in 2022 and open to the public.

The Deshou Palace was the place where Emperor Gaozong of Song （1107-1187） lived after his abdication. It was also the most important palace for the Southern Song dynasty （1127-1279）. The palace， which was almost totally destroyed hundreds of years ago， is about to unveil the mystery of the “imperial city”. So what was the emperor’s “retirement life” like 800 years ago？ Before you visit the palace， why not read the following text first to have an in-depth experience？

Dawn yet breaking， the Chaotian Gate （Drum Tower） just sounded the fourth watch of the drum. Outside the Houchao Gate， there are already numerous litter-carrying people， sitting underneath waiting for the gate to open. Some are street singers， some are simply gossiping， and some are sellers. On the road outside the city， people also begin to appear， those shouldering woods， selling rice， flowers and vegetables ... moving towards the dark city tower rising against the waning moon.

After a while， a series of clear and rhythmic sounds of iron placards and wooden fishes suddenly ring out from all directions， breaking the silence before dawn and opening the prelude to a day in the capital of the Southern Song dynasty.

It is the Buddhist monks who are beating the iron placards and wood fishes while chanting sutras. They are reporting the hour of the day and the weather conditions to the neighborhood， practicing their chanting voice at the same time. But these are not resident monks， who need to attend morning lessons. Rather they are the itinerant monks， who are also able to get some alms by taking on the task.

By the fifth watch （three to five o’clock in the morning）， the city gates have opened， and the streets start to come alive. Small restaurants and tea houses are issuing white clouds of alluring scent. The fleet of boats， which have filled the city’s waterways are busy pushing their way in and out of the city. Stalls selling face-washing and mouth-rinsing water， a special feature of the Southern Song “main streets”. Folks would get up in the morning and go straight to the stalls， washing their faces and rinsing their mouths， making the whole city look like a collective dormitory. Dim sum and porridge are ready. The day thus kickstarts with the rising noise of the streets.

The 67-year-old Zhao Gou， Emperor Gaozong of Song and now the Taishang Huang （“Retired Emperor”）， wakes up naturally and takes a satisfying stretch， hearing the fainting voices of itinerant monks announcing the hours.

Of course， Zhao couldn’t hear the monks when he lived in the imperial palace near the Phoenix Mountain， where the eunuchs would take care of the business. Here in the Deshou Palace， which sits close to the commoners， it is a bit different， and he seems to enjoy it.

The palace was once the former residence of Qin Hui （1090-1155）， chancellor of the dynasty and one of the most infamous traitors in the Chinese history. While the two enjoyed a period of “honeymoon”， their relationship soon turned tense， as Qin accumulated too much power and Gaozong felt threatened — the latter was even said to have hidden a knife in his boot when he had audience with Qin. With Qin’s fall from grace， his residence was confiscated by the authorities as well， and after renovation， it became the Deshou Palace.

The current emperor， Emperor Xiaozong of Song （1127-1194）， is Gaozong’s adopted son， who has shown more filial piety by visiting Gaozong early in the morning every day if he doesn’t need to attend the imperial court.

Today， Xiaozong won’t be coming， as it is a day for official business. In fact， the Song emperors and their ministers and officials don’t have to attend the court every single day， which would be impractical — two or four days a month will do.

After washing up， attended by eunuchs and maids， Zhao simply eats a bowl of small wonton， his favorite breakfast. Zhao is always frugal in his diet. It is not uncommon to see Ma Lan Tou， a wild vegetable enjoyed by the populace， and freshwater snails on his table. Having finished his food， Zhao then goes to attend his flock of pigeons.

If Zhao Gou has any hobbies， raising pigeons undoubtedly ranks on the top. Now that he has retired， pigeons are a big part of his life. Indeed， these pigeons are all precious species and bred personally by him. He has also taken care of releasing them every morning and their homecoming every evening. A flock of white birds flying over the city sky in those years has been something to behold.

One scholar， disappointed with Zhao’s seemingly forgetting his family members who are still held by rival Jurchen forces in the north， once wrote a poem to satirize his hobby. Instead of punishing him， Zhao made him an official of the government， just like one of his pigeons.

After releasing his pigeons， Zhao Gou stands on a high building in the Deshou Palace， taking a survey of the view around him. A huge flag embroidered with a yellow dragon is hoisted tall on the square in front of the imperial palace， which means today is indeed the day for the court meeting. Zhao Gou could imagine the busy scene when civil and military officials in sedans or on horses hurry into the palace along the imperial street at his feet， but all has nothing to do with him now. Apparently， the emperor would not come to the Deshou Palace， he needs to find something to do.

To the West Lake， it suddenly dawns on Zhao. And off he and his retinue.

To some extent， Emperor Gaozong of Song should be the first emperor-visitor to the lake， and after his abdication， it becomes even more so. In fact， there is a smaller version of the West Lake in the Deshou Palace， with many major landscapes of the lake implanted inside the palace. Zhao can totally enjoy everything at home. However， West Lake being West Lake， Zhao decides to visit it， away for a stroll.

The eunuchs and maids are very happy to have the chance for an outing， and the imperial guards have already lined up all the way to the West Lake. It so happens that a female hawker is also there， riding on a boat and selling her special snacks.

Unlike in later dynasties， in the Song dynasty （960-1279）， the public didn’t have to be cleared off when the emperors were visiting a certain place like the West Lake. The female hawker goes by the name of Song Wusao （Fifth Sister-Law Song） and her fish soup has long enjoyed wide acclaim. Originally a well-known chef in Bianjing （present-day Kaifeng city， Henan province）， the capital of the now nonexistent Northern Song dynasty （960-1127）， she is now settled in Hangzhou， choosing to move to the south after the Jurchen invasion and still peddling her fish soup. Her current popularity is precisely down to the fact that the taste of the soup easily reminds those “northern refugees” of their home.

While they are anchored at the Su Causeway during noon， an elderly eunuch by the side of Zhao Gou suddenly hears a Bianjing accent hawking fish soup. He immediately recognizes Song Wusao and can’t help but shed a few tears as he thinks of the glorious Northern Song. All has been noticed by Zhao. Upon learning the reasons， he orders the soup fish and gives it “five stars” for both its sentimental and culinary value. Zhao even awards her a large sum of funding to expand her business.

Words travel fast. Sister Song’s fish soup soon becomes a national sensation.

Now， finishing the soup as well as a few cakes — his lunch， Zhao continues to travel around the lake and only returns to the Deshou Palace at dusk （five o’clock in the afternoon）. With dinner served and done， Zhao turns to another of his habits： writing calligraphy. Like his predecessors， Zhao is an accomplished calligrapher， too. In the past five decades， according to Zhao， he never misses writing if there’s no urgent matters to attend to.

He has copied much of the Classic of Filial Piety. Feeling tired， he asks Queen Mother Wu （1115-1197） to continue. The couple often do so together when they practice calligraphy. Zhao tastes some newly brewed wine brought by the maids， looks at his wife’s writing and smiles …