秋入徑山不知歸

俞天立

杭州兩位老市長白居易、蘇東坡詠贊杭州余杭的詩賦，總能勾起我“以山水為廬，行讀書之樂”的神思。白市長賦曰：“東南山水，余杭郡為最?！碧K市長詩云：“余杭自是山水窟”“我昔嘗為徑山客，至今詩筆余山色?！?/p>

時屬季秋。我的手里捧著一杯茶。

茶湯溫熱而清新，就像此刻的心情。我親手泡了這杯茶，茶葉和熱水卻不是自己的，是屬于余杭徑山一個名叫小古城村的村子的?？拷?，駐足，定神，執(zhí)行一場充滿儀式感的沖泡，將世情百態(tài)溶在湯汁中品味，然后在緩慢的時光中沉醉。呷一口茶，思緒就柔軟了，順滑了，忘卻了俗事的紛擾。

這間木屋子里除了我和家人，沒有主人，也沒有伙計?？勺杂沙鋈?，可隨意歇腳，可臨窗觀山，可從容地泡一壺徑山茶，等待下一位有緣人品茗對談。仿佛曲水流觴，酒杯換了茶杯，在時光之溪中與友對飲，茗香盈喉，通體舒泰。

我驚喜地發(fā)現(xiàn)，此地還可以自主選擇有聲學習——打開微信掃一掃墻上的音頻欄目二維碼，對應“兒童樂園”“青年榜樣”“廉政故事”“經(jīng)典名著”“綠水青山”“鄉(xiāng)村振興”等欄目名，便有一段娓娓動聽的故事繞梁，似乎便可“三月而不知肉味”。如果我想讓耳朵歇一歇，還可以循著一排排書架，取閱《老人與?！贰锻郀柕呛贰恶橊勏樽印贰短K辛詞》等書籍，在文海詞林中徜徉。所以，我流連，沉醉，差點忘了這是一座圖書館，一座有聲圖書館，還是一座黨建圖書館——在這里，可以找到學習黨史的各種書籍和資料，沿著紅色之旅重溫苦難與輝煌。

身處這樣一個書香飄溢的智慧村莊，我真的不是在做夢？

戀戀不舍地放下茶杯，跨出門外。門口擺著塊題寫著每日金句的黑板，為訪客奉上一道精神甜點。上面寫的是：“文明是豐富多彩的，民主也是豐富多彩的?！睍鴮憰r間為當日。顯然文字是日日更新的，訪客每日都能看到不同的內(nèi)容。

不遠處，岳母大呼小叫找到了“好東西”——那是一輛自助的販貨小車，就停在敞開的院子門口。走近看去，小車陳列著一袋一袋的烤薯片，其中一袋貼著“試吃”的標簽。周圍并沒有攤主，聽憑來客隨意品嘗。試吃后如果喜歡的話，便可掃描懸掛的二維碼收款牌，十元一袋。岳母嘗了幾片，嘖嘖稱贊其脆嫩酥香，立馬拿出手機掃碼付了款。女兒在旁早已嘴饞，忍不住沖上去想將整袋搶過來，岳母哈哈笑著往她小嘴里塞了一片，她才松開了小手。我也乘機抓了幾片，第一口下去，便覺薄脆如蟬翼，紅薯的甜香將味蕾按摩得舒舒坦坦。我仔細觀察周圍，發(fā)現(xiàn)這樣的自助式販貨小車幾乎每家每戶都有，星羅棋布，形成了獨特的景觀。

“喜歡呀？喜歡就多買一點！”院子里款步走出一個憨態(tài)可掬的大嬸，笑意盈盈地對我們說。女兒繞著她轉(zhuǎn)，她邊逗女兒玩邊介紹起她家的販貨小車來：“這烤薯片基本上家家戶戶都會做，也是我們小古城村的風味特產(chǎn)呢！”

“確實好吃！有什么秘訣嗎？”

“我們這邊的烤薯片芝麻放得多。芝麻少，不好吃。切片也很重要，切得要薄才脆?！彼钢钙渲幸淮?，“這批都是前天剛做好的，非常脆口”。

“你們做生意都靠游客自覺吧？有沒有安裝監(jiān)控呢？”我好奇地問。

“有些是有的，我家就沒有。我們放心的，沒碰上過偷拿不給錢的！”她笑了起來，笑容真誠而煦暖。

我來到一家名號為“古城e鋪”的土特產(chǎn)小店，大字牌匾竟然是只農(nóng)家的笸籮。古色古香的店門前，臘肉香撲鼻而來。原來，清一色曬香腸的架子搭在院子里，滿目都是。五六把長短各異的老式秤桿掛在白粉墻上，秤桿木質(zhì)粗糲而古樸。臺階前忙活的老板娘，約莫六十歲，系絳紅色圍裙，戴藏青色護袖。還未趨近，農(nóng)家特有的親和力已讓人心生歡喜。

“老板娘，香腸都是自己做的吧？”岳母問她。

“是的。昨天我剛做的，蠻新鮮的。我這手現(xiàn)在還酸著呢！你還可以看看土豬肉，五十塊一斤，別的地方買不到的。”她咧嘴笑著，笑中似帶香氣。

“都是用土豬肉做的呀？”

“是的。不是土豬肉的話，肉很薄，沒啥嚼勁。我家的是正宗的自制土豬肉香腸，有村民在養(yǎng)豬的。在我們這里，都是一頭豬兩家分，我家和另一家分一頭?！?/p>

此時，淘氣的女兒已在四處抓商品玩。岳母見哄不住她，便假裝生氣的樣子喝了一聲。

“小姑娘好可愛呀！我家里正在煮番薯，如果你女兒喜歡吃，我去給她拿兩個來。你等下啊……”店主樂呵呵地對我說，轉(zhuǎn)身入了后院。不一會兒，便手捧著兩只熱氣騰騰的番薯回來了。嘴饞的女兒不由分說，抓起一個便啃吃起來。

“我有兩個女兒，大女兒嫁到了麗水，小女兒嫁到了溫州。不過小女兒喜歡這里，平時也跟我們老兩口一起住?！?/p>

“說明這里宜居呀。”我笑言。

“浙江的農(nóng)村么，都這樣。帶你們?nèi)ピ鹤永锟纯窗伞！彼裏崆榈仡I著我們參觀她家的小院。院子寬敞明亮，半圓形的格局，被綠色植物清晰勾勒出溫馨的線條，柿樹上的柿子紅似燈籠，在秋風中搖頭晃腦。前院有車庫，二樓有露臺，一切棱角分明，素凈雅致。落葉紛飛，流光明媚。秋之明凈，生動到可以濃縮在一庭一院，只需三兩黃葉，四五雀鳴。女主人仿如庭院里的秋海棠。

“房子什么時候造的呀？看上去很新?！?/p>

“2006年前后建造的，看不出來吧？”她又指了指前院的圍墻，“以前這一塊都是高墻大院，顯得封閉，我們家也是。前些年，村里出資把圍墻整體改造得低矮通透了，容易讓人親近?，F(xiàn)在游客從微信朋友圈看到院子這么美，來玩的就更多了，我們的生意也好了很多！”

“以前是‘內(nèi)卷，現(xiàn)在是‘開放，哈哈！”我應和道，“您的家人也在家？”

“小女兒這會兒遛娃去了。他們在對面山腳下玩彩虹滑梯，快活著呢！”正說話間，遠處傳來了人聲和電瓶車聲。那便是她的小女兒了，帶著個小男孩。男孩“騰”地跳下車來，見我女兒對著他的滑輪車好奇張望，便“紳士”地上前教她玩耍起來。女兒也剝了一塊番薯，主動向他“示好”。孩子們追逐嬉戲，童真如此的簡單與美好。

如果說歲月是以靜好為美，那么人性則是以真誠為美。真誠的前提是人與人之間的信任。在這里，我感受到了如山厚重的信義和似水綿柔的善意。

一灣池水，一棵大樟，一張石桌，歲月春秋結(jié)下珍貴的鄉(xiāng)情鄉(xiāng)誼，信任在田園之上、鄰里之間傳遞。小古城村多年來以信立村，開創(chuàng)了樟樹下議事的先例、被標為“六議四步”的民主協(xié)商制度，甚至還建起了民主協(xié)商博物館。不閉戶的有聲圖書館，不監(jiān)控的販貨小車，誠信待客的“古城e鋪”……這些鮮活的民間樣本，在我的眼眸里熠熠生輝，在我的心頭活色生香。

信任，是可以縮短人心距離的。我沉醉在徑山的秋色里，陶然忘歸。

Intoxicating Autumn of the Jingshan Mountain

By Yu Tianli

It was autumn， and I was holding a cup of tea in my hands. The tea soup was warm and fresh， just like my state of mind at the moment. I made this cup of tea with my own hands， but I didn't produce the tea leaves or the hot water： they belonged to a village in the Jingshan Mountain， Hangzhous Yuhang district — the Xiaogucheng （literally “Small Ancient City”） village.

In this wooden house， there was no owner or staff， except me and my family. Everyone was free to come and go， and have a good rest in between.

I was surprised to find that audio-learning materials were also available here. If I wanted to rest my ears， I could stroll among rows of bookshelves and pick out some books to read， such as The Old Man and the Sea， Walden Lake and Camel Xiangzi， as if wandering in the sea of literature.

Was I really in such a smart village surrounded by the lovely scent of books， or was I only dreaming？

Not far away， I heard my mother-in-law crying out loud that she had found “something good” — it was a self-service hawker cart， parked in front of the open courtyard. Upon closer look， the cart displayed bags of baked potato chips， one of which was labeled “tasting”. There was no vendor around， but the visitors can taste the samples at will. If they liked what they ate， then they could scan the hanging QR code to check out for 10 yuan or about 1.5 US dollars per bag.

I looked around carefully and found that such self-service hawker carts were almost in front of every household， forming a unique landscape.

“You like it？ If you like it， buy some more！”An aunt stepped out from the courtyard， saying to us full of smiles. As my daughter playfully circled her， she began to tease her while introducing her hawker cart to us： “This baked potato chip is basically made by every family， and it is also a specialty of our small ancient village.”

“Its really delicious！ Whats the secret？”

“We put more sesame. Without enough sesame， the chips will be not as good. Its also important to slice the chips thinly to make them crisp，” She pointed to one of the bags. “This batch was just made the day before yesterday， very crispy.”

“You do business on the good behavior of customers， right？ Is there any surveillance cameras installed？” I asked curiously.

“Some do， my family doesnt. We dont worry about it， and we havent been shoplifted！” She laughed， her smile sincere and warm.

I came to a small store of local specialties named “e-store in the ancient city”， surprised to find the shop sign is a farmhouse shallow basket. In front of the ancient store， the aroma of preserved meat came to my nose. The owner who was busy in front of the steps was a sixty-year-old lady， wearing a crimson apron and navy-blue sleeves.

She enthusiastically led us on a tour of her familys small yard. The courtyard was bright and spacious with a semi-circular pattern， clearly outlined by greenery. The persimmons on the persimmon tree resembled red lanterns， shaking their heads in the autumn breeze. There was a garage in the front yard and a terrace on the second floor， and everything was sharp， clean and elegant.

“When was the house built？ It looks very new.”

“It was built around 2006. you cant tell， right？”She pointed to the wall in the front yard， “In the past， this area was a high-wall compound， which seemed closed， and so was our house. Some years ago， the village funded the overall transformation of the fence， which is now low and friendly. Now people have learned from the WeChat ‘Moments of others that the yard is so beautiful that more visitors are coming in， and our business is much better！”

If time is beautiful in its quietness， then humanity is beautiful in its sincerity. The premise of sincerity is trust between people. Here， I feel the faithfulness as thick as a mountain and the kindness as soft as water.

Through trust， it is possible to shorten the distance between peoples hearts. I was so intoxicated by the autumn view of the Jingshan Mountain that I forgot to return.