用冰雪“冷資源”做活紡織“熱經(jīng)濟(jì)”

Cold resources heating textile and apparel industry

—Interview with Sun Ruizhe， president of International Textile Manufacturers Federation and China National Textile and Apparel Council

2021年10月20日上午，隨著北京冬奧會(huì)第一支火炬點(diǎn)燃，冬奧會(huì)正式進(jìn)入了北京時(shí)間。對(duì)于2022年冬奧會(huì)，政府提出了通過政府推動(dòng)、政策拉動(dòng)、規(guī)劃策動(dòng)、宣傳鼓動(dòng)等手段，最終實(shí)現(xiàn)帶動(dòng)3億人參與冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)的目標(biāo)。

冰雪經(jīng)濟(jì)產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈較長(zhǎng)，涉及旅游、器械、餐飲以及紡織服裝等諸多領(lǐng)域。據(jù)估算，此次冬奧會(huì)所涉及的冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)將帶動(dòng)其他關(guān)聯(lián)產(chǎn)業(yè)收入達(dá)到3000億元以上。到2025年，中國(guó)冰雪產(chǎn)業(yè)總規(guī)模預(yù)計(jì)將達(dá)到1萬億元，如此巨大的市場(chǎng)空間，也為紡織服裝以及相關(guān)產(chǎn)業(yè)開啟了無限商機(jī)。在冰雪“冷資源”開始轉(zhuǎn)化為“熱經(jīng)濟(jì)”的快車道上，紡織產(chǎn)業(yè)該如何順勢(shì)而為？還存在哪些不足，亟待完善？為了找到這些問題的答案，CHINA TEXTILE專程采訪了國(guó)際紡織制造商聯(lián)合會(huì)（以下簡(jiǎn)稱國(guó)際紡聯(lián)）主席、中國(guó)紡織工業(yè)聯(lián)合會(huì)會(huì)長(zhǎng)孫瑞哲。

On the morning of October 20， 2021， the Beijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games officially entered Beijing time with the lighting of the first torch of the Games. For the Beijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games， the government has proposed the goal of attracting 300 million people to participate in winter sports through government promotion， policy stimulus and planning.

Ice and snow economy has a long industrial chain， involving tourism， equipment， catering， textile and apparel and many other fields. It is estimated that the ice and snow sports involved in the Olympic Winter Games will drive the revenue of other related industries to reach more than 300 billion yuan. Chinas ice and snow industry is expected to reach 1 trillion yuan by 2025. The huge market space also opens infinite business opportunities for textile and apparel industry and related industries. How should the textile and apparel industry take advantage of the trend？ What are the deficiencies that need to be improved？ In order to find the answers to these questions， CHINA TEXTILE interviewed Sun Ruizhe， president of International Textile Manufacturers Federation （ITMF）， and the China National Textile and Apparel Council （CNTAC）.

冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)帶來巨大機(jī)遇

China Textile： 2022年冬奧會(huì)即將來臨，國(guó)家也多次提出了“帶動(dòng)三億人上冰雪”的愿景，您覺得這對(duì)紡織企業(yè)來說有哪些機(jī)遇和挑戰(zhàn)？

孫瑞哲：2022 冬奧會(huì)的申辦成功，點(diǎn)燃了國(guó)人對(duì)冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)的消費(fèi)熱潮。疊加國(guó)家 “帶動(dòng)三億人上冰雪”政策紅利與持續(xù)的資本入局，我國(guó)冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)服裝裝備企業(yè)迎來巨大的發(fā)展機(jī)遇。主要體現(xiàn)在：

第一，規(guī)模發(fā)展的巨大機(jī)遇?！侗┻\(yùn)動(dòng)發(fā)展規(guī)劃（2016-2025年）》指出，到2020年我國(guó)冰雪產(chǎn)業(yè)總規(guī)模將達(dá)到6000億元，2025年我國(guó)冰雪產(chǎn)業(yè)總規(guī)模將達(dá)到10000億元。另?yè)?jù)《中國(guó)冰雪旅游發(fā)展報(bào)告（2021）》顯示，預(yù)計(jì)2020-2021年冰雪季，中國(guó)冰雪休閑旅游人次將達(dá)2.3億人次，冰雪休閑旅游收入超過3900億元。文化和旅游部數(shù)據(jù)中心預(yù)測(cè)，2021-2022冰雪季中國(guó)冰雪旅游將帶動(dòng)冰雪特色小鎮(zhèn)、冰雪文創(chuàng)、冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)、冰雪制造、冰雪度假地產(chǎn)、冰雪會(huì)展等相關(guān)產(chǎn)業(yè)的產(chǎn)值達(dá)到2.92萬億元?？梢?，伴隨消費(fèi)總量與消費(fèi)人群的規(guī)模發(fā)展，冰雪產(chǎn)業(yè)總體將持續(xù)釋放規(guī)模效應(yīng)，為我國(guó)冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)服裝裝備企業(yè)拓展消費(fèi)市場(chǎng)，壯大消費(fèi)品牌，應(yīng)用消費(fèi)場(chǎng)景，創(chuàng)造巨大的發(fā)展機(jī)遇與想象空間。第二，政策紅利的巨大機(jī)遇。近年來，我國(guó)相繼出臺(tái)《“帶動(dòng)三億人參與冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)”實(shí)施綱要（2018-2022年）》、冰雪旅游發(fā)展行動(dòng)計(jì)劃（2021—2023年）、《冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)發(fā)展規(guī)劃（2016-2025年）》、《關(guān)于以2022年北京冬奧會(huì)為契機(jī)大力發(fā)展冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)的意見》等政策文件。政策紅利的密集釋放，將有效促進(jìn)冰雪產(chǎn)業(yè)蓬勃發(fā)展，產(chǎn)業(yè)規(guī)模明顯擴(kuò)大，結(jié)構(gòu)不斷優(yōu)化，產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈日益完備。通過實(shí)施品牌戰(zhàn)略，將推動(dòng)建立一批產(chǎn)業(yè)規(guī)模較大的冰雪產(chǎn)業(yè)集聚區(qū)，發(fā)展一批具有較高知名度和影響力、市場(chǎng)競(jìng)爭(zhēng)力較強(qiáng)的冰雪產(chǎn)業(yè)企業(yè)，興建一批復(fù)合型冰雪旅游基地和冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)中心。這些都將為我國(guó)冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)服裝裝備企業(yè)的做大做強(qiáng)，贏得堅(jiān)實(shí)的政策保障。

第二，政策紅利的巨大機(jī)遇。近年來，我國(guó)相繼出臺(tái)《“帶動(dòng)三億人參與冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)”實(shí)施綱要（2018-2022年）》、冰雪旅游發(fā)展行動(dòng)計(jì)劃（2021—2023年）、《冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)發(fā)展規(guī)劃（2016-2025年）》、《關(guān)于以2022年北京冬奧會(huì)為契機(jī)大力發(fā)展冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)的意見》等政策文件。政策紅利的密集釋放，將有效促進(jìn)冰雪產(chǎn)業(yè)蓬勃發(fā)展，產(chǎn)業(yè)規(guī)模明顯擴(kuò)大，結(jié)構(gòu)不斷優(yōu)化，產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈日益完備。通過實(shí)施品牌戰(zhàn)略，將推動(dòng)建立一批產(chǎn)業(yè)規(guī)模較大的冰雪產(chǎn)業(yè)集聚區(qū)，發(fā)展一批具有較高知名度和影響力、市場(chǎng)競(jìng)爭(zhēng)力較強(qiáng)的冰雪產(chǎn)業(yè)企業(yè)，興建一批復(fù)合型冰雪旅游基地和冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)中心。這些都將為我國(guó)冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)服裝裝備企業(yè)的做大做強(qiáng)，贏得堅(jiān)實(shí)的政策保障。

第三，科技賦能的巨大機(jī)遇。一方面，人工智能、大數(shù)據(jù)、可穿戴設(shè)備等科技手段，已經(jīng)成為輔助運(yùn)動(dòng)員在訓(xùn)練中提高競(jìng)技水平的“標(biāo)配”。智能可穿戴設(shè)備，將有助于構(gòu)建人體運(yùn)動(dòng)學(xué)及動(dòng)力學(xué)參數(shù)測(cè)量及分析系統(tǒng)，用來檢索、收集、篩選、分析運(yùn)動(dòng)員的速度、心率、呼吸、發(fā)力方式等一系列以前難以量化的數(shù)據(jù)。另一方面，伴隨5G技術(shù)、人工智能、大數(shù)據(jù)、區(qū)塊鏈、云計(jì)算等新興數(shù)字產(chǎn)業(yè)與冰雪產(chǎn)業(yè)的結(jié)合，催生了“仿真冰雪”、“VR技術(shù)”、“智能化人機(jī)交互”等諸多冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)新模式、新業(yè)態(tài)，“智慧冰雪產(chǎn)品”、“智慧冰雪服務(wù)”、“冰雪場(chǎng)館數(shù)字化運(yùn)營(yíng)”等冰雪產(chǎn)業(yè)智能化發(fā)展新趨勢(shì)，將有效突破國(guó)內(nèi)目前冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)只有冬季運(yùn)營(yíng)的限制，順應(yīng)“北冰南展西擴(kuò)東進(jìn)”的體育發(fā)展態(tài)勢(shì)，降低冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)門檻，真正實(shí)現(xiàn)冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)的“四季常青”與“全域覆蓋”。綜合兩方面，不管是從智能可穿戴設(shè)備的技術(shù)革新，還是從冰雪產(chǎn)業(yè)運(yùn)營(yíng)模式的技術(shù)革新，都將為我國(guó)冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)服裝裝備企業(yè)拓寬多元消費(fèi)場(chǎng)景，滿足新生代消費(fèi)需求，提高品牌附加值提供巨大的發(fā)展機(jī)遇。

挑戰(zhàn)與機(jī)遇并存。我國(guó)冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)服裝裝備企業(yè)目前面臨的挑戰(zhàn)，主要體現(xiàn)在兩方面：

一方面，冰雪文化的普及度有待提升。相比于奧地利、日本等國(guó)家的冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)趨勢(shì)，中國(guó)的冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)不僅起步較晚，而且在大眾認(rèn)知和體驗(yàn)層面，也尚且屬于小眾圈層用戶的一項(xiàng)愛好。據(jù)中國(guó)旅游研究院《中國(guó)冰雪旅游消費(fèi)大數(shù)據(jù)（2019）》報(bào)告顯示，奧地利滑雪人口占比36%、其中人均滑雪次數(shù)5.9次，日本滑雪人口占比9%、其中人均滑雪次數(shù)2.5次，而中國(guó)滑雪人口占比僅約1%，其中人均滑雪次數(shù)僅1.08次。另外，滑雪運(yùn)動(dòng)依然停留在“貴族”運(yùn)動(dòng)的定位。Mob研究院數(shù)據(jù)顯示，中國(guó)目前滑雪者主要為一二線城市的男性中高收入群體，人群年齡集中在25-34歲，月收入集中在一萬元以上。可見，我國(guó)冰雪文化仍處于發(fā)展期，除少數(shù)高收入階層外，大多數(shù)冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)消費(fèi)者類型為“一次體驗(yàn)型消費(fèi)者”，尚未形成主動(dòng)化、常態(tài)化、生活方式化的文化自覺。未來，冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)服裝裝備企業(yè)要實(shí)現(xiàn)加速度發(fā)展，就需要更深層次、更廣范圍的冰雪消費(fèi)文化普及。

另一方面，核心技術(shù)的掌控度有待提升。我國(guó)冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)較國(guó)外剛起步，產(chǎn)業(yè)基礎(chǔ)較薄弱。冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)服裝裝備產(chǎn)業(yè)，同樣遵循高成長(zhǎng)性、高利潤(rùn)空間、高品牌集中度以及高專業(yè)壁壘的發(fā)展特性。相較于國(guó)外品牌，圍繞“裝備、數(shù)據(jù)和體驗(yàn)”的技術(shù)創(chuàng)新，產(chǎn)業(yè)對(duì)核心技術(shù)的掌控度不足，在研發(fā)投入、研發(fā)體量層面都有待提升。有報(bào)告顯示，從市場(chǎng)份額來看，國(guó)內(nèi)冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)服裝及器材產(chǎn)品市場(chǎng)劃分為：滑雪服占市場(chǎng)份額的50%、滑雪手套占75%、滑雪眼鏡占73%、滑雪帽占 25%。 由于缺乏技術(shù)競(jìng)爭(zhēng)力，利潤(rùn)率最高的“滑雪板”、“滑雪鞋”以及“滑雪手杖”市場(chǎng)幾乎大部分都被國(guó)外品牌占領(lǐng)。與此同時(shí)，具有傳感功能、反饋功能、響應(yīng)功能、信息識(shí)別與積累、自診斷能力、自修復(fù)能力和自適應(yīng)能力的智能調(diào)溫紡織材料、智能形狀記憶紡織材料、智能變色紡織材料以及電子信息智能紡織材料，在冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)服裝裝備企業(yè)中的實(shí)際推廣運(yùn)用也有待普及、強(qiáng)化。

從另一個(gè)角度來看，2022北京冬奧會(huì)的舉辦，也為提升國(guó)內(nèi)冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)服裝裝備的技術(shù)創(chuàng)新能力，奠定了有力的應(yīng)對(duì)契機(jī)。如，2019年，國(guó)家體育總局冬季運(yùn)動(dòng)管理中心與北京服裝學(xué)院共建“國(guó)家冬季運(yùn)動(dòng)服裝裝備研發(fā)中心”，目標(biāo)為基于“人體 - 服裝 - 環(huán)境”系統(tǒng)，開發(fā)適用于冬季項(xiàng)目訓(xùn)練與比賽的減阻、防護(hù)、熱濕舒適高性能服裝，致力于跨學(xué)科建成集冬季項(xiàng)目訓(xùn)練與比賽服裝材料選型、功能設(shè)計(jì)、樣衣制作、工效分析于一體的國(guó)際先進(jìn)產(chǎn)學(xué)研平臺(tái)。目前，北京服裝學(xué)院承接的國(guó)家重點(diǎn)研發(fā)計(jì)劃“科技冬奧”重點(diǎn)專項(xiàng)——“冬季運(yùn)動(dòng)與訓(xùn)練比賽高性能服裝研發(fā)關(guān)鍵技術(shù)”項(xiàng)目冬奧備戰(zhàn)服裝在研發(fā)上，通過提升纖維保暖率與使用主動(dòng)加熱技術(shù)，有效解決了“快、護(hù)、暖、美”四個(gè)關(guān)鍵技術(shù)問題。值得期待的是，該研發(fā)平臺(tái)的搭建，將有效解決核心技術(shù)研發(fā)的關(guān)鍵制約瓶頸，集成產(chǎn)學(xué)研資源，樹立創(chuàng)新典型示范。

China Textile： 據(jù)您了解，目前我國(guó)從事冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)服裝裝備的企業(yè)在行業(yè)中有哪些？隨著冰上運(yùn)動(dòng)的推廣，您覺得未來冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)產(chǎn)品的市場(chǎng)將會(huì)如何？

孫瑞哲：總體來看，我國(guó)冰雪市場(chǎng)目前處于起步階段，存在滲透率不足，產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈亟待完善的諸多挑戰(zhàn)。與此同時(shí)，如前所述，我國(guó)冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)服裝裝備企業(yè)，面臨巨大的規(guī)模發(fā)展機(jī)遇、政策紅利機(jī)遇以及科技賦能機(jī)遇，存在很大的增量空間，是全球范圍內(nèi)滑雪產(chǎn)業(yè)的主要市場(chǎng)之一。未來我國(guó)冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)服裝裝備市場(chǎng)，有三個(gè)趨勢(shì)值得關(guān)注。

一是多元化品牌格局逐步形成。目前國(guó)內(nèi)冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)服裝裝備生產(chǎn)產(chǎn)品線主要集中在滑雪領(lǐng)域，從事冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)服裝裝備的企業(yè)大概分為三類：一是長(zhǎng)期深耕在冰雪裝備細(xì)分領(lǐng)域的小眾品牌，如北京的奔流、冷山、杭州的體拓等；二是布局冰雪服裝裝備產(chǎn)業(yè)的大眾品牌，如由單一品類向滑雪服等多種戶外產(chǎn)品拓展的探路者、駱駝等，以合資方式入局滑雪市場(chǎng)的安踏、波司登、361°等；三是隨著國(guó)內(nèi)市場(chǎng)的發(fā)展，借助運(yùn)動(dòng)社群以及電商渠道快速成長(zhǎng)的黑馬品牌，如零夏、VECTOR、有司、Snowline等。多元化品牌格局的逐步形成，將有效滿足冰雪產(chǎn)品與服務(wù)供給的個(gè)性化、差異化與品質(zhì)化消費(fèi)需求。

二是國(guó)產(chǎn)自主品牌異軍突起。隨著我國(guó)冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)競(jìng)技力的全面躍升，冰雪市場(chǎng)規(guī)模的不斷突破，以及冰雪文化的逐步普及，國(guó)產(chǎn)品牌在專業(yè)競(jìng)技運(yùn)動(dòng)領(lǐng)域與大眾休閑消費(fèi)領(lǐng)域都在不斷崛起，頭部品牌有望壯大，逐步形成技術(shù)驅(qū)動(dòng)、結(jié)構(gòu)更優(yōu)、產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈更完整、品牌影響力更強(qiáng)的發(fā)展格局，市場(chǎng)規(guī)模增長(zhǎng)與產(chǎn)業(yè)高質(zhì)量發(fā)展齊頭并進(jìn)。

據(jù)CBNData聯(lián)合天貓?bào)w育發(fā)布的《2020冬季新活力生活趨勢(shì)報(bào)告》顯示，南恩、VECTOR、Nobaday等國(guó)產(chǎn)新銳服裝品牌，集體進(jìn)入“十大Z時(shí)代喜愛冰雪品牌榜單”，在2020年12月滑雪裝備的銷量同比上漲13倍；另?yè)?jù)天眼查數(shù)據(jù)顯示，從2015年開始，經(jīng)營(yíng)范圍含“滑雪”的企業(yè)注冊(cè)數(shù)量明顯增加，2019年注冊(cè)數(shù)量超1000家，目前整體超過6400家。作為小眾市場(chǎng)的滑雪裝備，相關(guān)企業(yè)也超40家。

三是產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈上下游的研發(fā)協(xié)同加速凝聚。包括新型纖維材料、新型非織造材料、智能紡織材料以及生態(tài)染整材料在內(nèi)的紡織新材料創(chuàng)新，是冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)服裝裝備產(chǎn)業(yè)高質(zhì)量發(fā)展的關(guān)鍵環(huán)節(jié)。當(dāng)前功能性纖維材料開發(fā)與品質(zhì)提升，生物基化學(xué)纖維的產(chǎn)業(yè)化，以及高性能纖維的產(chǎn)業(yè)化，都將為未來冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)服裝裝備行業(yè)的高質(zhì)量發(fā)展提供有力的發(fā)展契機(jī)。以“冬奧經(jīng)濟(jì)”為例，紡織服裝產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈的上游面料企業(yè)，通過新材料、新工藝與新設(shè)計(jì)的研發(fā)協(xié)同，為下游品牌企業(yè)的產(chǎn)品品質(zhì)創(chuàng)新與功能優(yōu)化提供強(qiáng)有力的支撐。

如，上海嘉麟杰紡織品股份有限公司與北京冬奧組委官方合作伙伴安踏公司簽訂供貨協(xié)議，做強(qiáng)超暖抓絨產(chǎn)品，滿足冬奧會(huì)各種工作場(chǎng)景的需求；同樣作為冬奧會(huì)制服面料供應(yīng)商的紹興乾雍紡織有限公司，憑借獨(dú)特的尼龍印花技術(shù)和工藝，為還原設(shè)計(jì)上獨(dú)特的顏色，定向開發(fā)納米墨水，為時(shí)尚審美提供堅(jiān)實(shí)的技術(shù)支撐；江蘇三豐特種材料科技有限公司根據(jù)市場(chǎng)需求，開發(fā)肽肌泡（NuSkin）合成面料，對(duì)環(huán)境友好，適合在沖鋒衣和羽絨服上應(yīng)用；蘇州市興豐強(qiáng)紡織科技有限公司主打的零下無絨系列產(chǎn)品，減少制造羽絨所產(chǎn)生的廢氣廢水的排放，更加節(jié)能減碳。可以預(yù)見，產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈上下游加速凝聚研發(fā)協(xié)同的效應(yīng)，將有助于中國(guó)冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)服裝裝備產(chǎn)業(yè)構(gòu)筑更專業(yè)高效、難以被顛覆的技術(shù)壁壘，有效參與全球市場(chǎng)競(jìng)爭(zhēng)。

自主品牌需要實(shí)現(xiàn)“三個(gè)強(qiáng)化”

China Textile：您覺得我國(guó)的冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)品牌與世界頂尖戶外專業(yè)運(yùn)動(dòng)品牌相比，還有哪些差距？需要著重在哪些方面進(jìn)一步提升？

孫瑞哲：從滑雪運(yùn)動(dòng)看，奧地利、德國(guó)等國(guó)家進(jìn)入滑雪裝備市場(chǎng)早，擁有品牌效應(yīng)、技術(shù)創(chuàng)新等優(yōu)勢(shì)。相比之下，我國(guó)滑雪運(yùn)動(dòng)裝備制造企業(yè)多以貼牌代工、代理為主，缺乏知名品牌和核心技術(shù)，造成自主品牌競(jìng)爭(zhēng)力不足。為此，需要實(shí)現(xiàn)“三個(gè)強(qiáng)化”。

一是強(qiáng)化科技研發(fā)，打造“技術(shù)品牌”。今年1月，習(xí)近平總書記在北京考察冬奧會(huì)、冬殘奧會(huì)籌辦工作來到首都體育館調(diào)研時(shí)強(qiáng)調(diào)，要利用科學(xué)技術(shù)手段推動(dòng)訓(xùn)練備戰(zhàn)水平。在新技術(shù)革命與產(chǎn)業(yè)變遷中，我國(guó)冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)品牌要從創(chuàng)新產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈最前端做起，在保證冰雪產(chǎn)業(yè)及相關(guān)產(chǎn)業(yè)價(jià)值創(chuàng)造力平穩(wěn)增長(zhǎng)的基礎(chǔ)上，加大對(duì)冰雪產(chǎn)業(yè)核心層的持續(xù)性投入與鉆深式研究，即強(qiáng)化上游科技與材料端的務(wù)實(shí)研發(fā)和資源整合，積極擁抱新材料、新技術(shù)、新服務(wù)、新資本，實(shí)現(xiàn)從技術(shù)引進(jìn)到自主研發(fā)，不斷創(chuàng)造人民觸碰“冰雪奇緣”的更多可能。

比如，北服團(tuán)隊(duì)作為牽頭單位，聯(lián)合6所高校、4個(gè)企業(yè)聯(lián)合攻關(guān)，解決“快、護(hù)、暖、美”四個(gè)關(guān)鍵技術(shù)問題，實(shí)現(xiàn)競(jìng)速類項(xiàng)目服裝、防護(hù)材料及裝備、耐低溫保障材料和服裝、技巧類項(xiàng)目服裝四類產(chǎn)品創(chuàng)新；安踏集團(tuán)在日本東京設(shè)立冬季運(yùn)動(dòng)專業(yè)裝備設(shè)計(jì)中心日本辦事處，通過調(diào)動(dòng)世界頂級(jí)設(shè)計(jì)力量強(qiáng)化研發(fā)團(tuán)隊(duì)，研發(fā)具備最新科技含量的專業(yè)冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)服裝。

二是強(qiáng)化設(shè)計(jì)賦能，打造“時(shí)尚品牌”。通過深度挖掘消費(fèi)升級(jí)下的冰雪產(chǎn)品需求，以我國(guó)冰雪文化為精神內(nèi)涵，勇于向內(nèi)探索，敢于向外破圈，善于將“冷資源”變成“熱產(chǎn)業(yè)”，帶動(dòng)我國(guó)冰雪產(chǎn)業(yè)未來發(fā)展的產(chǎn)業(yè)特色流線，加快提升中國(guó)冰雪服裝裝備產(chǎn)品的設(shè)計(jì)造物力、潮流影響力、生活方式根植力和多元市場(chǎng)延展力。

比如，國(guó)外品牌之間的跨界藝術(shù)聯(lián)名，面向全球潮流消費(fèi)者，強(qiáng)調(diào)設(shè)計(jì)賦能，成為打造滑雪運(yùn)動(dòng)“符號(hào)品牌”的重要途徑。如，Dior和滑雪裝備品牌AK Skis聯(lián)名，著名滑雪裝備品牌Burton與全球最具知名度的街頭涂鴉藝術(shù)家Keith Haring，聯(lián)合推出滑雪板、插肩長(zhǎng)袖T恤和連帽滑雪外套在內(nèi)的聯(lián)名膠囊系列；優(yōu)衣庫(kù)與單板滑雪運(yùn)動(dòng)員平野步夢(mèng)聯(lián)名推出滑雪服系列。

三是強(qiáng)化文化輸出，打造“符號(hào)品牌”。立足國(guó)際國(guó)內(nèi)雙循環(huán)的發(fā)展格局，應(yīng)抓住2022年北京承辦冬奧會(huì)的大好發(fā)展機(jī)遇，以提升我國(guó)冰雪文化產(chǎn)業(yè)價(jià)值與影響為己任，多維度開展中國(guó)冰雪運(yùn)動(dòng)服裝裝備品牌的文化營(yíng)銷和意義傳播，積極表達(dá)品牌態(tài)度和價(jià)值主張，把握產(chǎn)業(yè)“走出去”的良好時(shí)機(jī)，向世界講好中國(guó)冰雪故事，打造具有全球文化標(biāo)桿意義的“符號(hào)品牌”，提升中國(guó)自主品牌在全球市場(chǎng)的綜合競(jìng)爭(zhēng)力與時(shí)尚話語權(quán)。

比如，中國(guó)新生代滑雪品牌Nobaday，在不到六年的時(shí)間里，做到與Stüssy、BAPE等品牌在美國(guó)洛杉磯的潮流街區(qū)Fairfax比肩，成功簽約Max Parrot、Team Riders、Regional Riders等百位世界優(yōu)秀滑雪運(yùn)動(dòng)員，并將在2022年北京冬奧會(huì)亮相，助力中國(guó)、日本、挪威、芬蘭等國(guó)選手取得佳績(jī)。

世界正在發(fā)生三大變化

China Textile：您如何看待當(dāng)前全球紡織的發(fā)展現(xiàn)狀和特點(diǎn)？

孫瑞哲：當(dāng)前，立足百年未有之大變局，全球紡織工業(yè)的科技革命和產(chǎn)業(yè)革命全面交融，世界發(fā)展新舊動(dòng)能加速轉(zhuǎn)換，由深度衰退轉(zhuǎn)向經(jīng)濟(jì)復(fù)蘇，加速的數(shù)字化轉(zhuǎn)型，以及轉(zhuǎn)向低碳和與自然相協(xié)調(diào)的經(jīng)濟(jì)增長(zhǎng)成為正在發(fā)生的三大變化。一方面，歐美等發(fā)達(dá)國(guó)家和地區(qū)依托消費(fèi)市場(chǎng)、高新科技研發(fā)和先進(jìn)制造優(yōu)勢(shì)，正在大力推動(dòng)制造業(yè)復(fù)興，通過提出和實(shí)施強(qiáng)化高端紡織的創(chuàng)新戰(zhàn)略性計(jì)劃，重新謀求未來紡織工業(yè)制高點(diǎn)；另一方面，越南、孟加拉國(guó)、印度尼西亞、柬埔寨等新興經(jīng)濟(jì)體積極承接紡織產(chǎn)業(yè)國(guó)際產(chǎn)能與訂單轉(zhuǎn)移，在世界紡織品服裝出口中的份額迅速提升，客觀上也會(huì)對(duì)中國(guó)紡織工業(yè)在重構(gòu)產(chǎn)業(yè)發(fā)展優(yōu)勢(shì)，調(diào)整產(chǎn)業(yè)結(jié)構(gòu)與區(qū)域布局，完善產(chǎn)業(yè)創(chuàng)新生態(tài)，以及推動(dòng)產(chǎn)業(yè)綠色發(fā)展，提出更大挑戰(zhàn)與更高要求。

總體來看，全球紡織經(jīng)濟(jì)的發(fā)展，呈現(xiàn)出三個(gè)重要特征：產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈的深度調(diào)整。全球產(chǎn)業(yè)發(fā)展的比較優(yōu)勢(shì)與要素價(jià)值正在發(fā)生改變。發(fā)達(dá)經(jīng)濟(jì)體制造業(yè)回流與新興市場(chǎng)國(guó)家崛起交匯，國(guó)際分工格局深刻調(diào)整，行業(yè)產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈供應(yīng)鏈面臨激烈競(jìng)爭(zhēng)與加快轉(zhuǎn)移的現(xiàn)實(shí)壓力。在大國(guó)博弈背景下，知識(shí)、技術(shù)、人才等創(chuàng)新要素的外循環(huán)阻力加大，注重自主創(chuàng)新成為提升行業(yè)在全球價(jià)值鏈上位勢(shì)的必要選擇。

數(shù)字經(jīng)濟(jì)的全面驅(qū)動(dòng)。人工智能、區(qū)塊鏈、大數(shù)據(jù)等通用基礎(chǔ)技術(shù)的發(fā)展與滲透，正在深刻改變?nèi)蚣徔椥袠I(yè)的創(chuàng)新和發(fā)展范式。數(shù)據(jù)驅(qū)動(dòng)產(chǎn)業(yè)的裝備與工具更新、組織與模式再造，智能制造與智慧營(yíng)銷的發(fā)展，使得產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈上下游的協(xié)同性與耦合性得到提升，供給需求及時(shí)匹配，生產(chǎn)要素實(shí)現(xiàn)了優(yōu)化配置與高效循環(huán)。新技術(shù)革命下，產(chǎn)業(yè)正呈現(xiàn)更大范圍的要素整合與業(yè)態(tài)疊加，互聯(lián)、泛在、延展成為重要趨勢(shì)。虛擬技術(shù)驅(qū)動(dòng)從“在線”到“在場(chǎng)”，沉浸式體驗(yàn)新空間和新消費(fèi)場(chǎng)景持續(xù)創(chuàng)新。

綠色發(fā)展的戰(zhàn)略選擇。社會(huì)公平公正、經(jīng)濟(jì)協(xié)調(diào)平衡、生態(tài)自然和諧成為全球紡織經(jīng)濟(jì)的共同價(jià)值追求。以實(shí)現(xiàn)碳達(dá)峰、碳中和為目標(biāo)，推動(dòng)社會(huì)、經(jīng)濟(jì)、生態(tài)的可持續(xù)與平衡發(fā)展已成為世界各國(guó)的戰(zhàn)略選擇。以綠色設(shè)計(jì)、綠色生產(chǎn)、綠色營(yíng)銷、綠色消費(fèi)、綠色金融為表征的產(chǎn)業(yè)生態(tài)正在形成，“綠色市場(chǎng)”和責(zé)任市場(chǎng)的價(jià)值空間正在打開。從要素配置、產(chǎn)品供給到市場(chǎng)規(guī)則、路徑模式，全球紡織經(jīng)濟(jì)都在面臨系統(tǒng)性的改變。行業(yè)開始進(jìn)入出清和調(diào)整高能耗、高污染產(chǎn)能的結(jié)構(gòu)調(diào)整期。面對(duì)日益剛性的環(huán)境要求，以可持續(xù)發(fā)展為重點(diǎn)，行業(yè)科技創(chuàng)新更加注重綠色低碳，提升效率、降低排放，推動(dòng)產(chǎn)品全生命周期的綠色變革。

China Textile：目前中國(guó)紡織工業(yè)的現(xiàn)狀如何，在全球紡織行業(yè)中發(fā)揮著怎樣的作用？

孫瑞哲：經(jīng)歷了幾十年的快速發(fā)展之后，中國(guó)紡織工業(yè)已經(jīng)成為世界紡織品服裝的最大生產(chǎn)國(guó)、出口國(guó)和消費(fèi)國(guó)。作為世界最大的紡織經(jīng)濟(jì)體，一方面，中國(guó)紡織工業(yè)的體系優(yōu)勢(shì)和規(guī)模優(yōu)勢(shì)不斷強(qiáng)化，形成了全球規(guī)模最大、最完備的產(chǎn)業(yè)體系，生產(chǎn)制造能力與國(guó)際貿(mào)易規(guī)模長(zhǎng)期居于世界首位；另一方面，紡織行業(yè)發(fā)展質(zhì)量和發(fā)展效率不斷提升，產(chǎn)業(yè)結(jié)構(gòu)全面優(yōu)化升級(jí)，在全球價(jià)值鏈中的地位也穩(wěn)步提升，如李寧、安踏、波司登等長(zhǎng)青品牌，不斷實(shí)現(xiàn)煥新再造，在科技創(chuàng)新、品牌建設(shè)、綠色發(fā)展等方面取得積極進(jìn)展，有望成為具有全球影響力的知名國(guó)際品牌。

從中國(guó)紡織工業(yè)的發(fā)展現(xiàn)狀來看，盡管有全球新冠疫情沖擊、原料價(jià)格波動(dòng)、貨運(yùn)價(jià)格高漲、部分地區(qū)限電限產(chǎn)等因素影響，行業(yè)依然表現(xiàn)出強(qiáng)大的韌性與活力，構(gòu)建新發(fā)展格局邁出新步伐，高質(zhì)量發(fā)展取得新成效。行業(yè)在穩(wěn)定經(jīng)濟(jì)增長(zhǎng)、拉動(dòng)內(nèi)需增長(zhǎng)、保持全球產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈供應(yīng)鏈通暢、以及創(chuàng)造人民美好生活等領(lǐng)域，做出了巨大的貢獻(xiàn)。

尤其是在保持全球產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈供應(yīng)鏈通暢方面，2021年1～11月我國(guó)紡織品服裝出口總額為2852.8億美元，同比增長(zhǎng)7.7%，近兩年年均增速為7.6%，已超過疫情前水平。在海外訂單回流等因素支撐下，服裝出口實(shí)現(xiàn)平穩(wěn)增長(zhǎng)。1～11月出口額為1543.5億美元，同比增長(zhǎng)25.1%，為2014年以來的最好增長(zhǎng)水平。外貿(mào)結(jié)構(gòu)更加多元，新興經(jīng)濟(jì)體對(duì)我國(guó)紡織行業(yè)出口增長(zhǎng)起到積極支撐作用，1～10月對(duì)越南、印度出口紡織原料及制品的金額同比分別增長(zhǎng)23.3%和72.2%。

總體來看，2020年末我國(guó)全面建成小康社會(huì)之際，紡織行業(yè)基本實(shí)現(xiàn)《2020建設(shè)紡織強(qiáng)國(guó)綱要》相關(guān)目標(biāo)，絕大部分指標(biāo)已達(dá)到甚至領(lǐng)先于世界先進(jìn)水平，建立起全世界最為完備的現(xiàn)代紡織制造產(chǎn)業(yè)體系，生產(chǎn)制造能力與國(guó)際貿(mào)易規(guī)模長(zhǎng)期居于世界首位，成為我國(guó)制造業(yè)進(jìn)入強(qiáng)國(guó)陣列的第一梯隊(duì)。

未來，中國(guó)紡織工業(yè)將繼續(xù)秉承復(fù)興逐夢(mèng)的產(chǎn)業(yè)理想、恢弘蹈麗的產(chǎn)業(yè)形象、同力協(xié)契的產(chǎn)業(yè)格局、追尋敢超的產(chǎn)業(yè)性格，加速實(shí)現(xiàn)外延式擴(kuò)張到內(nèi)涵式發(fā)展，推動(dòng)新型世界紡織工業(yè)命運(yùn)共同體的構(gòu)建，力爭(zhēng)到2035年我國(guó)基本實(shí)現(xiàn)社會(huì)主義現(xiàn)代化國(guó)家時(shí)，成為世界紡織科技的主要驅(qū)動(dòng)者、全球時(shí)尚的重要引領(lǐng)者、可持續(xù)發(fā)展的有力推進(jìn)者。

China Textile： 您對(duì)2022年的冬奧會(huì)有哪些祝愿？新年將近，作為國(guó)際紡聯(lián)主席，您對(duì)全球紡織人的新年寄語是？

孫瑞哲：冬奧運(yùn)是展現(xiàn)人類追求夢(mèng)與雪、力與美、技與藝、善與志的最生動(dòng)實(shí)踐。從“更快、更高、更強(qiáng)”到“更快、更高、更強(qiáng)、更團(tuán)結(jié)”，奧林匹克精神，以更適應(yīng)時(shí)代的聲音，擊穿時(shí)空，成為構(gòu)建人類命運(yùn)共同體的強(qiáng)大力量。

2022年，以“純潔的冰雪，激情的約會(huì)”為美好愿景，冬奧會(huì)即將在北京拉開大幕，圣潔的奧林匹克精神與古老的中華大地將再次交織。我相信，在偉大的奧林匹克精神映照下，作為滿足人民對(duì)美好生活新期待的有力締造者，作為攜手應(yīng)對(duì)全球不確定性挑戰(zhàn)的有為先鋒者，中國(guó)紡織工業(yè)，必將迎來一個(gè)新的理想境界，奏響一段新的發(fā)展篇章，構(gòu)建一段新的時(shí)尚文明。

寅虎新年，紡織可期。值冬奧會(huì)即將來臨之際，新的一年，中國(guó)紡織人，將持一顆潔白無暇的冰雪初心，秉承堅(jiān)定的理想信念，以不變應(yīng)萬變，以熱愛抵萬難，為世界人民織造美麗的中國(guó)衣裳。

誠(chéng)摯祝愿各位紡織同仁，各自閃耀，彼此照耀，共創(chuàng)榮耀！

Winter sports bring great opportunities

China Textile： The Beijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games is coming， the government has clearly set the goal of "driving 300 million people into winter sports". What do you think of the opportunities and challenges for textile enterprises？

Sun Ruizhe： Chinas successful bid to host the Beijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games has ignited the consumption enthusiasm of Chinese people for winter sports. Together with the national policy of “300 Million People Participate in Winter Sports” and continuous capital input， it offers great opportunities for Chinese winter sports clothing and equipment enterprises.

Firstly， we see great opportunities from the growth of industrial size. According to the Winter Sports Development Plan（2016-2025）， the overall size of Chinas icesnow industry will reach 600 billion yuan by 2020 and 1000 billion yuan by 2025. Also， the report of Chinas Ice-Snow Tourism Development Report （2021） shows that in the winter season of 2020-2021 the number of Chinese tourists will be 230 million， generating revenue of more than 390 billion yuan. The data center of Chinas Ministry of Culture and Tourism forecasts that in the winter season of 2021-2022 Chinese tourism will bring a total output value of 2.92 trillion yuan for industries related to signature towns， cultural creativity， winter sports， manufacturing， resort real estate and exhibitions. It is clear that the continuous size effect stimulated by growth of consumer groups and total consumption will create huge opportunities and plenty of room for imagination for Chinese producers in marketing， branding， consumption scenarios， etc.

Secondly， we see great opportunities from “dividend of policies”. For the past few years， the government has issued a series of policies such as the Winter for “300 Million People Participate in Winter Sports”（2018-2022）， Action Plan on Development of Ice-Snow Tourism （2016-2023）， Winter Sports Development Plan （2016-2025）， and the Opinions on Taking the Beijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games as an Opportunity to Vigorously Develop Winter Sports. The dividend of these policies will effectively promote the development of ice-snow industry in its size， structure and industrial chain. With the implementation of brand strategy， a number of ice-snow industry clusters will be set up to develop enterprises with high visibility and influence and strong market competitiveness， and compound ice-snow tourism bases and sports centers will be built. These will provide solid support for Chinese enterprises to get bigger and stronger.

Thirdly， we see great opportunities empowered by science and technology. On one hand， AI， big data， wearable devices…h(huán)ave become a standard feature for athletesgood performance in training. The intelligent wearable devices can help to measure kinematical parameters of human body so as to retrieve， collect， select and analyze the data of an athletes speed， heart rate， breath， generation of strength…which was difficult to quantify. On the other hand， new winter sports models and forms such as “simulated ice and snow”， “VR technology” and “manmachine interaction” have emerged with the application of digital technologies in ice-snow industry such as 5G technology， AI， big data， block chain， cloud computing， etc. Intelligent products and services and digital operation of ice-snow stadiums are making it possible to break the limit of winter sports only in winter， to promote winter sports from north to south， west and east， to lower the threshold of winter sports and to do winter sports all the year in all regions. In a word， technological innovation on both intelligent devices and operation pattern will bring great opportunities for Chinese enterprises to diversify consumption scenarios， meet demand of new generations and increase value-added of the brands.

Challenges and opportunities coexist. Challenges for Chinese winter sports clothing and equipment enterprises are mainly in two aspects.

In one aspect， we need to further enhance the popularity of ice-snow culture. Compared with the winter sports in countries like Austria and Japan， winter sports in China not only starts late but also is favored by only a minority. The 2019 Big Data on Chinese IceSnow Tourism Consumption issued by China Tourism Academy reveals that in Austria the skiing population accounts for 36% and per capita skiing 5.9 times. In Japan， it is 9% and 2.5 times. In China， however， it is only 1% and 1.08 times. Moreover， skiing in China is still considered as a sport for elites. According to the MobTech data， Chinese skiers are mainly 25～34 years old males with middle-high income （more than 10 thousand yuan a month） in first-tier and second-tier cities. Therefore， ice-snow culture in China is still in development stage. In addition to high income group， most winter sports consumers are just onetime experience consumers without a real cultural awareness. In future， we need deeper and wider popularity of ice-snow culture for rapid development of Chinese winter sports clothing and equipment enterprises.

In another aspect， we need to further increase mastery of core technologies. As I just said that winter sports in China starts late and the industrial foundation is weak. The winter sports clothing and equipment sector follows the development features namely high growth， high profit， high sales proportion of top brands and high barriers. Compared with foreign brands， domestic brands have further to go in terms of technological innovation， mastery of core technology and R&D input. A report indicates the market shares of domestic winter sports products are skiwear 50%， ski gloves 75%， ski glasses 73% and ski caps 25%. Due to a lack of technological competitiveness， the market shares of high-margin products such as skis， ski boots and ski sticks are almost taken by foreign brands. Meanwhile， we need more application of smart textile materials with functions like thermo control， shape memory， color shifting， information decoding and accumulation， etc.

Also， the Beijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games is definitely a good opportunity to speed up technical innovation. In 2019， National Winter Sports Administration Center worked with Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology （BIFT） to build a national winter sports clothing and equipment research center， with the goal of developing high performance clothing for winter sports training and games based on a “human body – clothing – environment” system. The center aims to become a world class industry-universityresearch platform for winter sports clothing from material selection， function design， sampling to efficiency analysis. Currently， BIFT is working on a national key project to prepare for the Olympic Winter Games. The project focuses on key technologies in R&D of high-performance clothing for winter sports training and games. By improving thermal performance of fibers and using an active heating technology， four technical challenges “speed， protection， warmth and beauty” have been overcome. The platform will help to break the bottleneck in R&D of core technologies and set a good example of innovation.

China Textile： As far as you know， what is the proportion of textile enterprises engaged in sportswear and equipment specialized in ice sports？ With the promotion of ice sports， what do you think of the future market of this kind of products？

Sun Ruizhe： Chinese market for ice-snow industry is still in its early stage， with challenges such as insufficient market penetration and incomplete industrial chain to be addressed. Also， Chinese winter sports clothing and equipment enterprises have great growth potential given the opportunities mentioned previ- ously – the growth of industrial size， dividend of policies， and science & technology empowerment. China will be one of the world major markets for skiing industry. There are three noteworthy market trends in the future.

Firstly， a diversified brand pattern will be gradually built up. At present， domestic production lines are mainly for skiing products. Enterprises of winter sports clothing and equipment can be divided into three types. Type One are niche brands long rooted in market segments， for example， companies like Running River， Cold Mountain in Beijing and like TITTALLON in Hangzhou. Type Two are mass-market brands such as TOREAD and Camel shifting from single category products to various outdoor products， and new comers like ANTA， Bosideng and 361° through joint-venture business model. Type Three are dark horse brands X-SUMMER， VECTOR， Uhznus， Snowline…which are developing rapidly through sports groups on social media as well as e-commerce platforms. A diversified brand pattern will effectively meet the consumer demand for individuality， differentiation and high-quality.

Secondly， more domestic original brands will emerge. With the overall improvement of Chinas winter sports competitiveness， the increasing market size for winter sports products and the popularity of ice-snow culture， domestic brands are emerging not only in professional sports competition but also in mass leisure consumption. Top brands are expected to get bigger and stronger. We will see a development pattern featuring high tech， optimized structure， complete industrial chain and influential brands. In other words， the high-quality industrial development will go hand in hand with the increase of market size.

In the 2020 New Vigorous Winter Life Report issued by CBNData and Tmall Sports， domestic newly-emerged brands such as NANDN， VECTOR and Nobaday are all on the list of “Top 10 favorite ice-snow brands in Generation Z”. In Dec. 2020， the sales of ski equipment were 13 times of that in the same period last year. According to TianYanCha data， the number of registered enterprises doing skiing related business is increasing significantly from 2015. In 2019 the number is over 1，000. Now it is over 6，400. Also， there are more than 40 companies doing ski equipment business serving a niche market.

Thirdly， we will see more coordinated R&D in both the industrial chain upstream and downstream. New textile materials including new fibers， new nonwoven materials， smart materials and eco-friendly finishing materials are the key to high-quality development of winter sports clothing and equipment sector. From the functional， bio-chemical and high-performance fibers come the opportunities for high-quality development. Taking Winter Olympics economy as an example， the R&D of new materials， new process and new design of the upstream fabrics enterprises will provide strong support to the high-quality functional products of downstream brands.

There are some good examples - Shanghai Challenge Textile Company has signed a contract with ANTA， the cooperation partner of Beijing Winter Olympics Organizing Committee， supplying super warm fleece fabrics for all kinds of Winter Olympics work scenes. Shaoxing Qian Yong Textiles Company， a uniform fabrics supplier for Winter Olympics， offers strong technical support with its unique nylon printing technology and process to restore unique colors in designs. The NuSkin synthetic fabrics of Jiangsu Sunfeng Fabrics Technology Company are ecofriendly and suitable for jackets and down coats. The Zero-Down Collection of Suzhou Xing-TEX Company can save more energy and reduce carbon dioxide emission by cutting waste discharge in the process of producing down. It can be predicted that coordinated R&D in the industrial chain upstream and downstream will provide more professional and stronger technical support for our industry to effectively participation in global market competition.

Independent brand needs to realize "three enhancements"

China Textile： Compare with worlds top outdoor professional sports brands， what should domestic brands focus on for further improvement？

Sun Ruizhe： Countries like Austria and Germany have the advantages in branding and technical innovation. By contrast， Chinese producers of ski products， weak in branding and core technology， are mainly doing OEM or acting as dealers. Therefore， we need to strengthen three aspects.

Firstly， we need to strengthen technical R&D to build“technology brands”. President Xi Jinping stressed during his inspection visit to Capital Stadium that science and technology should play an active role in higher training level for Olympic games. In the new round of technological revolution and industrial evolution， Chinese winter sports brands need to start from the beginning of the industrial chain making continuous input on in-depth core technology R&D. From technology import to self-independent R&D， new materials， technologies， services and investment will help to attract more and more people into winter sports.

For example， the BIFT works together with 6 universities and 4 companies to develop four key technologies for “speed， protection， warmth and beauty”， making innovative breakthrough on winter sports clothing for racing， protection， low-temperature resistance and sports acrobatics. ANTA Group has set up a center in Tokyo， Japan， developing high-tech winter sports clothing and equipment by a world top designing team.

Secondly， we need to strengthen design capability to build “fashion brands”. Through in-depth study on new product requirements in the upgrading of consumption， we need to take root in Chinese ice-snow culture and make both inward and outward exploration to turn “cold”resources into a “hot” industry. Only in this way can we enhance the design capability， brand influence， lifestyle originality and diversified markets for domestic winter sports products.

The crossover cooperation of top brands is an important way to build “symbolic brands” for stylish consumers worldwide. For example， the cooperation of Dior and AK Skis， Burton and Keith Haring （the worlds most popular street graffiti artist） brings us jointly-designed products such as skis， raglan sleeves T-shirts and hooded ski jackets. Also， we have the Uniqlo x Ayumu Hirano ski wear series.

For example， the domestic youth-oriented brand Nobaday has become as popular as brands Stüssy and BAPE in Fairfax， a fashion zone in Los Angeles of America in less than six years. It has also signed 100 world top skiers including Max Parrot， Team Riders and Regional Riders. We will see the brand in the Beijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games with its products for athletes from China， Japan， Norway， Finland， etc.

Three changes are taking place in the world

China Textile： What do you think of the current development status of global industry？

Sun Ruizhe： The world is undergoing changes unseen in a century. It has a profound impact on the global textile and apparel industries in three aspects - science and technology revolution fully fused with industrial revolution， accelerated digital transformation， and low-carbon growth in harmony with nature. In developed countries and regions， manufacturing industries are coming back with the implementation of innovation strategy to reshape competitive advantages based on high and new technologies. In emerging economies like Vietnam， Bangladesh， Indonesia and Cambodia， we see an inflow of international capacity and orders as well as rapid growth of textile and garment exports to the world. These will present bigger challenges and higher requirements to Chinas textile and apparel industry in reconstructing advantages， adjusting industrial structure and regional layout， improving industrial ecosystem and promoting green development.

The development of global textile economy shows three important characteristics.

Deep adjustment of industrial chains. The comparative advantages and factor values of global industries are changing. With the returning of manufacturing industries in developed economies， rising of emerging markets， profound changes in international division of labor， we see fiercer competition and the urgency of transformation in industrial chains. In a context of superpower games， the external circulation of knowledge， technology and talents is encountering more resistance， and selfindependent innovation becomes a must to secure a place in global value chains.

Driving force of digital economy. The development and application of technologies such as AI， block chain and big data are reforming the innovation and development patterns of world textile industries. Digitalization is driving the upgrading of equipment and tools and fostering new organization structure and operation models. Intelligent manufacturing and marketing are promoting higher coordination and coupling of industrial chain upstream and downstream， which ensures timely supply-demand matching and optimized allocation and efficient circulation of production factors. Interconnection， coexistence and extension are becoming an important trend. VR technology brings new consumption scenarios from online to on the scene.

Strategic choice of green development. Social equity and justice， balanced and coordinated economic growth， harmonious coexistence of human and nature are the common values pursued by global textile industries. It has become a strategic choice for every country to achieve the goal of carbon emission peak and carbon neutrality. An industrial ecosystem featuring green production， green marketing， green consumption and green financing is taking shape. The value space of green and responsible markets is opening. Systemic changes are taking place covering allocation of factors， product supply， market rules， path mode， etc. The industry is in a period of phasing out high pollution and high energy-consumption capacity. With sustainability as a key task， technical innovation will focus on low carbon emission， high efficiency， low discharge and a full life cycle of products.

China Textile： What is the status quo of Chinas textile industry？ What role does it play in the global textile industry？

Sun Ruizhe： After decades of high-speed development， China has become the worlds largest textile and garment producer， exporter and consumer. As the worlds biggest textile economy， the advantages of Chinas textile and apparel industry in system and size continue to be strengthened. We have the worlds largest and most complete industrial system with manufacturing capacity and international trade volume long ranking first in the world. Meanwhile， the quality and efficiency of industrial development improve continuously. Significant progress has been made in structural adjustment， and the industrial position in global value chains rises steadily. The evergreen brands such as Li-Ning， ANTA and Bosideng， with a sustained effort in tech innovation， branding and green development， are expected to become world famous brands.

In spite of the pandemic hit， ups and downs of raw material prices， high cost of shipment， power and production restriction in some regions， Chinas textile and apparel industry still shows great resilience and vitality in building a new development pattern and pursuing high-quality development. The industry has made great contributions in stabilizing economic growth， stimulating domestic demand， keeping global industrial and supply chains stable and creating better life for people.

This year， from Jan. to Nov.， Chinas total export of textiles and garments was 285.26 billion USD， a year-on-year increase of 7.7% and a two-year annual growth rate of 7.6%， which is above the pre-pandemic level. Garment export witnessed a stable growth given the backflow of overseas orders. From Jan. to Nov.， garment export was 154.35 billion USD， up 25.1% year on year， the best record since 2014. Diversification of foreign trade structure and emerging economies play an active role in the growing export of Chinas textile and apparel products. From Jan. to Oct.， the export value of Chinas textile raw materials and products to Vietnam and India increased 23.3% and 72.2% respectively.

When China achieved its first centenary goal of building a moderately prosperous society in all respects by 2020， Chinas textile and apparel industry basically achieved the goals in its 2020 development plan. A complete modern textile manufacturing system has been established， with manufacturing capacity and international trade volume long ranking first in the world.

In future， we will stay committed to the industrial mission –making continuous contributions to national rejuvenation. promoting the shift from extensive to intensive development， and fostering the building of a world textile community with a shared future. We will try to make Chinas textile and apparel industry a key driver for science and technology innovation， an important leader in world fashion and a firm promoter of sustainability by 2025.

China Textile： Do you have any wishes to the Olympic Winter Games？ Also do you have any words to global textile practitioners for the coming new year？

Sun Ruizhe： The Olympic Winter Games displays the most vivid practice of humanity in chasing dreams and snow， strength and beauty， skills and arts， kindness and ambition. The Olympic spirit from “faster， higher and stronger” to “faster， higher， stronger and closer” echoes the call of the times. It breaks the time and space boundaries， and becomes a strong power for building a human community with a shared future.

With a good vision of “joyful rendezvous upon pure ice and snow”， we will welcome theBeijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games soon . The holy Olympic spirit will once again come to the Chinese land. I believe， in the glory of great Olympic spirit， Chinas textile & apparel industry， as a creator of better life for people and a frontrunner in joint work to meet challenges， will surely reach a new level， open a new development chapter and build a new fashion culture.

In the new year of Tiger， we will see new hope for textile & apparel industry. On the occasion of the Olympic Winter Games， Chinese textile practitioners with an original aspiration as pure as ice and snow and firm faith， will march in confident strides toward the goal of weaving beautiful Chinese clothes for people worldwide.

My best wishes to all of you – may we enjoy personal success， mutual support and win-win achievement in the new coming year！