海邊，一個小村的倒影

黃嵐

咸祥在哪里？就在寧波市鄞州區(qū)的東南角。咸祥古稱嵩南（位于大嵩之南），元、明間，外來移民利用海涂高阜處煮鹽，因名鹽場。清嘉慶年間，更名為咸祥。

一

因為一個人，愛上一個村。

她說，咸祥，也即全體吉祥。她是誰，她就是桃奶奶。桃是兆春之木，多么吉祥之木呀。江南有嘉木，就在咸祥的橫山村。橫山在哪里？東瀕象山港，北倚福泉山。如此吉祥之地，焉能不去？國慶中秋長假的第8天，我隨桃奶奶，意氣風發(fā)向橫山。

且以《入橫山村》詩記之：大嵩江水繞橫山，明末漁耕村路連。風雨鹽田今漸遠，游人興探海潮邊。

橫山村因山而名，村南有三個連著的小山，剛好在一望無垠的大海邊，橫看形成短短一橫，豎看是個“山”字形，山腳下的小村子因此得名?，F(xiàn)在的橫山村由外營、鮑家、橫山等3個自然村合并而成，桃奶奶的爸爸家在鮑家，媽媽家則在橫山，桃奶奶走到村子里，許多奶奶級、媽媽級人物就跟她打招呼。聽著一聲聲鄉(xiāng)音，桃奶奶很激動。

橫山村是個重教育的村。村室展覽墻上介紹了一門四博士的故事。村民陳世堂、趙麗月夫婦將三兒一女都培養(yǎng)成了博士，這實在是不容易。除了陳家四博士外，還有知名律師、大學教授等鄉(xiāng)賢。當然，桃奶奶也是其中的杰出一員。桃奶奶回憶起她小時候讀書的情景，聽得我們連連感嘆。她說，上小學時每天從這橫山的一頭翻到另一頭，而初中時借讀到竹頭讀書，從住的地方過去要翻過兩個山頭。上第一個山頭時，可回望自己的家，等爬上第二個山頭，就可以看到學校了。而兩個山頭之間，當年小小年齡的她拼命地跑，起早摸黑的山路上沒有人作伴呀。多么不容易的求學之路！她在20世紀的80年代初考上杭州大學，畢業(yè)后在寧波藥專當教師。

我認識她時她已經(jīng)是副教授了，沒一點架子。因為每天帶著孫女識草賞花，她連帶著將小區(qū)里的小朋友一起帶進了草木世界。孩子們既見識了花花草草，又長了不少知識，更主要的是培養(yǎng)了對大自然的興趣。而這次她要將這個小朋友研學草木基地即“小八哥”博物游學基地放到橫山村去，并成立“桃奶奶博物游學工作室”，回報生她養(yǎng)她的家鄉(xiāng)。

二

有這么好的村民在，這橫山村豈不是最美麗的村？而我也因為她的緣故，隔了不到10天，又帶著閨蜜去咸祥，強烈推薦她們?nèi)ヅ罊M山登烽火臺了。

登上海邊的烽火臺，別有一番風情。

宋時，在橫山設了潮訊點。至明時因抗倭需要，大嵩設千戶所，橫山設烽火臺。因為從北侖洋沙山到咸祥鷹龍山，有五六十里海岸線，多為灘涂，唯有橫山一帶船可直抵，登陸即為平原，因此橫山成了海防前哨，是明時防衛(wèi)倭寇的重要關(guān)隘。至抗日戰(zhàn)爭時期，又筑了碉堡和防空洞。1949年后，烽火臺一度成了瞭望臺。

橫山村是個海防要塞。在桃奶奶的指點下，我站在烽火臺遠遠地眺望碉堡，碉堡似乎并不起眼。再向前，便是無際的大海，海浪擁著灘涂，一次次親吻海岸，又一次次后退，她是否也記得百年的倭害？且讓我以一首七絕《登烽火臺》記錄之：象山港北橫山秀，烽火臺前戰(zhàn)火燃?？苡熬暫翁幦?，唯聽海浪說徂遷。

橫山真的不算高，大約海拔50米，但在一望無邊的大海（象山港）前面，顯得特別高大雄偉。

橫山上有石階鋪成，據(jù)說原先有橫山古道，現(xiàn)在修整過了，干凈的條石，砌成之字形的登山道。兩邊的林木不算高大，鹽膚木、青岡樹、柿樹、楓香樹等在葛藤、木防己的纏繞下郁郁蔥蔥。石道兩邊一尺見寬的泥土上播了花籽，對比上次去時明顯長高了。山頂有小石屋，石頭墻壁上爬著薜荔藤，很有年代感。

待我們登上烽火臺，啊，好遼闊的視野：向東，藍天白云與遠處的碧海連成一片;向南，寬闊的象山港中泊著幾艘船，似乎要在捕魚作業(yè);向西南，先是橫山碼頭，再過去就是象山港大橋，橋上的車流一片繁忙;向北，星羅棋布的金色稻田與蝦塘魚塘，包圍著嶄新的村子。西北處的沿海公路穿村而過，外圍還有一條大嵩江，托著美麗而多情的橫山村。

我們來到村里，看到花草沿階，路邊曬著龍頭烤、米饅頭、灰汁團，透出濃郁的鄉(xiāng)村風味。在我看來，世外桃源也不過如此了。

登高望村，這真是：登高環(huán)顧星棋布，秋色澄明村舍妍。碧水長廊多故事，多門學士耀華年。

三

看到橫山碼頭，閨蜜英就激動起來：這不是我以前每次去象山擺渡的地方嗎？原來閨蜜在30年前就已經(jīng)涉足橫山了，卻在此刻才真正認識橫山。咸祥的交通，除了公路就是這航路，而橫山都占了，可見其重要性了。而現(xiàn)在象山港大橋開通，這輪渡成為歷史，但碼頭上仍有船只在開動，這海防要塞的地位仍未改變。

漁耕橫山，八月漁棉會。

咸祥沿海的灘涂地是天然的養(yǎng)殖魚蝦之地，而慢慢由海涂形成的平原又適合種植棉花。而橫山村是其中十足的漁耕之村。在歷史長河中，咸祥人民在慶祝豐收時形成了“八月漁棉會”這一載歌載舞的盛會?！鞍嗽掳霛O棉會”有300多年歷史，是紀念先賢的慶典活動，已列入省非遺名錄。

農(nóng)歷八月，舉行祭祀、演戲、迎神爵獻、行會等活動，各種漁船、花橋船、龍船、鳳船、雙龍船等彩船大巡游，這是人們慶祝豐收的狂歡日子，也是紀念唐時浙江觀察史裴肅平亂佑民、清時鄞縣知縣楊懿圍涂筑塘改造田地之功勛。特別是楊懿，勤政恤民，興工治理大嵩河，建橫山、大礁、小礁等6個閘門。楊懿的老家在陜西蒲城，清雍正年間任職鄞縣，他上任29個月，卻為民做了大量實事好事，最后在抗擊洪災中勞累過度殉職，年僅36歲。

人們的愿望很樸素，誰當官為民辦實事，人們自然記得他。茲以詩作《八月漁棉會》記下我的感動：橫山八月漁棉會，歌舞歡游慶喜年?？h令遺德誰肯忘，賢行惠語代相傳。

The October Golden Week this year was an eight-day vacation. On the last day of the vacation， I visited Hengshan Village in the east of Yinzhou District， part of Ningbo， a harbor city in eastern Zhejiang.

The village is named after the three hills along the coast. The three hills resemble a straight horizontal line in a birds-eye view. I had wanted to visit Hengshan for a few reasons. The first reason was Grandma Peach. She is a native of Hengshan Village. She enrolled into Hangzhou University in the 1980s and she worked as a teacher at a pharmacy academy in Ningbo after graduation from Hangzhou. When I met her， she was an associate professor. Nowadays， she takes care of her granddaughter. One of the things she teaches the granddaughter is the names of plants in the residential compound where she lives. And many children in the community join her when she and her granddaughter take a walk in the compound. Education is part of the lifestyle of Hengshan Village. Four children of a family in the village are PhDs. There are professors and medical doctors who grew up in the village. Grandma Peach and I came to her home village because she wanted to set up a studio of natural history so that the children in the village can learn about nature and because I wanted to take a look.

Hengshan Village has a long history. In the Northern Song （960-1127）， the village housed a tide-watching station. In the Ming Dynasty， a beacon tower was set up on the top of one of the hills against which the village nestles， as the village is positioned at a strategic place where pirates from the sea would choose for invasion. Part of the village was a battalion. The beacon tower is no more， but on the previous site of the tower is an observation platform which functioned for years after 1949.

There is now a paved trail through the three hills. The trail now attracts tourists and outdoor sports enthusiasts. I found it a great pleasure to walk the trail as there are many tall trees. From the platform I saw from afar a long huge bridge crossing the Xiangshan Harbor.

From the platform my friend saw the village ferry dock and became excited. It turned out that she took a ferry boat from the dock more than 30 years before. The dock is not a busy ferry place any more since the bridge is now in operation.

The beaches along the coastline of the village have been developed for a long while. In history， some flatlands were turned into farms for cotton crops. Some beaches along the village are now turned into ponds for fish farming. The local people in this part of Yinzhou district celebrate harvest in lunar August. The annual festivity started over 300 years ago. It is now listed as a provincial cultural legacy.

The celebration is composed of various events： a sacrificial ceremony， opera shows， and a parade of decorated boats and ships on the sea. Part of the festival is dedicated to the memory of Shi Pei， a governor who crashed a rebellion and protected people and Yang Yi， governor of Yinxian County who had dredged rivers and built six flood sluices. Yang worked hard for 29 months as governor before he dropped dead at the age of 36 from overwork.