曾經(jīng)那座煙火繚繞的記憶之城

楊璽 余宏

江北城，因位于嘉陵江北岸而得名，秦漢時(shí)曾筑“北府城”作為巴郡郡治。

清朝嘉慶三年（1789年），為防白蓮教，重筑土墻圍城，周長五華里，并設(shè)四座城門;道光年間，江北古城完整呈現(xiàn)，城門數(shù)量也由四而八;到咸豐十年，江北城再次擴(kuò)建，十門古城最終形成。

“朗朗文星照九重，問津那許白云封。鎮(zhèn)安永遠(yuǎn)資神護(hù)，保定于今際世雍。沿岸金沙隨浪涌，匯川火井襯波濃。覲陽紅日東升處，恰對(duì)涂山第一峰?！鼻宕娙它S勛曾這樣描繪江北城的繁榮景象。

歲月悠悠，江北城的城門和老城墻先后垮塌或被拆除，如今只剩下保定門、東升門、問津門和一小段殘墻。

一如黃花園沒了園、上清寺沒了寺、觀音橋沒了橋、海棠溪沒了溪，江北城也不見了當(dāng)年城墻合圍的那座城。充滿煙火氣的街巷、喧鬧的工廠不復(fù)存在，取而代之的，是開闊的綠地和金融中心林立的高樓。

如今，我們還可以從軌道交通6號(hào)線的到 站提示音里聽到“江北城”三個(gè)字。作為地名，這三個(gè)字代表了嘉陵江北岸的這片區(qū)域;而在老江北城人心里，這三個(gè)字是走不出的記憶之城。

Just as the Yellow Garden without a garden.the Shangqing Temple without a temple， theGuanyin Bridge without a bridge， Haitang Creekwithout a creek， Jiangbei City has also lost itscity once surrounded by the wall. Also gone werethe noisy streets and factories. which have beenreplaced by open green spaces and high-risebuildings lined in the financial centers.

Now we can only hear the word "JiangbeiCity" from the notice of rail transit Line 6reminding passengers to get off. As the name ofa place， the two words represent this area on thenorth bank of Jialing River. Yet in the hearts ofthose who lived in the old Jiangbei City， they arethe city of memory that cannot be walked out.

推開記憶之門

Push Open the Door of Memory

六月的一個(gè)周末，綿綿細(xì)雨中，王大爺和老伴陳大媽再一次來到江北城。自2003年從江北城搬到五里店，“回去看看”已成老兩口閑暇時(shí)的固定項(xiàng)目。在這里，他們?cè)?jīng)一起生活了二十多年。

順著重慶大劇院旁的石梯往下，一段老城墻掩映在綠樹中。

城墻的墻體用方正的條石壘成。底部斑駁的老石材，自兩百年前壘石筑城起，就在這里經(jīng)受風(fēng)雨侵蝕。幾處城墻的石縫里，盤扎著老黃葛樹粗壯的根須。在城墻前，有幾位老人說說笑笑地在拍照，聽他們言語，應(yīng)該也是老江北城的故人。

在城墻上信步，沒多遠(yuǎn)就到了頭。從剝蝕的石階走下城墻，便是185歲“高齡”的保定門。

保定門是典型的券頂雙拱門，寬2.5米、高3.85米、厚近4米，在今天看來，已不復(fù)當(dāng)年的偉岸。透過保定門的門洞望去，門外便是日夜流淌的嘉陵江。江對(duì)岸，朝天門的來福士高聳入云。

“這里和對(duì)岸，就像兩個(gè)世界?！蓖醮鬆斷卣f道。

One weekend in June. in the drizzle. UncleWang and his wife Aunt Chen came to Jiangbei Cityagain. "Going back and having a look" has become aregular item for the old couple in their spare time sincethey moved from Jiangbei City to Wulidian in 2003.Here， they once lived together for more than 20 years.

Down the stone ladders beside Grand Theaterof Chongqing， a section of old city wall is hidden ingreen trees.

The wall is built of square stones. Themottled old stones at the bottom have been erodedby wind and rain since the wall was built 200years ago. In the stone crevices. there are thickroots of the old ficus virens. In front of the citywall. several elders were taking photos， talkingand laughing. Juding from their words， theyshould once live here.

Rambling on the wall to the end， walkingdown from the denuded stone steps， you will see the185-year-old Baoding Gate.

Baoding Gate is a typical double arch witha coupon top， 2.5 meters wide. 3.85 meters highand nearly 4 meters thick. which looks no longeras majestic as it used to be. Looking through thedoorway of Baoding Gate， what comes into viewis Jialing River which flowing day and night.On the other side of the river. the Raffles City atChaotianmen toweres into the sky. “Here and the other side are just two worlds.”Uncle Wang murmuerd.

尋覓舊城時(shí)光

Looking for Time in the Old City

從保定門沿路而上，沿途是重慶大劇院和嘉陵江索道北塔樓、重慶科技館。在江北嘴中央商務(wù)區(qū)中央公園B區(qū)，幾對(duì)小青年正在德肋撤天主教堂和基督教福音堂前拍攝婚紗照。

“這兩座教堂都是后來搬遷過來的。當(dāng)年，這里是江北公園，可以喝蓋碗茶、跳交誼舞?！背撕炔瑁@里還是王大爺和陳大媽“耍朋友”的地方。

“結(jié)婚之前，我住男工宿舍，她住女工宿舍。中間正好隔著江北公園?！蓖醮鬆斦f，正因如此，江北公園成了二人約會(huì)的首選地?！懊看渭s會(huì)，我都會(huì)去接她。進(jìn)不了女工宿舍，我就蹲在宿舍值班室門外等，后來，值班室的老大姐把我認(rèn)熟了，就讓我到值班室里坐著等?！?/p>

結(jié)婚后，兩人安家在下橫街。下橫街在現(xiàn)在重慶大劇院一帶，雖是一排排墻壁斑駁、木門陳舊的老平房，但在王大爺?shù)男睦?，卻裝滿了濃濃的人情味。 “一家炒回鍋肉，可以香透八九家，總會(huì)有李家大姐、劉家小哥端著飯碗來嘗上一口?！?/p>

“在江北公園和下橫街之間，有一個(gè)‘江北劇場(chǎng)’可以聽川劇、看電影。只是那個(gè)年代影片少，劇場(chǎng)里都是新電影老電影交替著放，看一場(chǎng)電影一角五分錢?！边@也是老兩口甜蜜的記憶。

下橫街往上，就是上橫街?！耙坏较奶?，上橫街就會(huì)有很多‘光膀子黑臉包公’。那會(huì)兒，家家戶戶燒水做飯都用蜂窩煤。每隔十天半個(gè)月，家里的男人們就會(huì)帶上煤票和籮筐、扁擔(dān)，到上橫街的煤店去挑蜂窩煤。”

上橫街除了煤店，還有當(dāng)年兩口子工作的重慶織布廠。鼎盛時(shí)，織布廠有員工兩三千，人稱“江半城”。1982年，重慶織布廠擴(kuò)建廠房，挖掘機(jī)突然挖到一塊巨大的石碑——沉睡了616年的大夏國皇帝明玉珍墓就此重現(xiàn)人間。

1997年，重慶織布廠解體，廠址內(nèi)只有明玉珍睿陵被完好地保存下來。

如今，這個(gè)江北城的最高點(diǎn)，成為江北嘴中央商務(wù)區(qū)中央公園A區(qū)。

Go up the road from Baoding Gate， along theway are Chongqing Grand Theatre. North Tower ofJialing River Cableway and Chongqing Science andTechnology Museum. In Block B of the Central Parkin Jiangbei Mouth Central Business District. severalyoung people are taking wedding photos in front of St.Theresa's Church and Christian Evangelical Church.

"Both churches were moved later. This wasJiangbei Park then. where we could drink Gaiwantea and practice ballroom dancing." What's more.it's also the place where Uncle Wang and Aunt Chen"make friends".

"Before we got married. I lived in the men'sdormitory and she lived in the women's. In the middlewas the Jiangbei Park." Uncle Wang said. It thusbecome the first choice for them to date. "I'll pick herup every time we date. As I couldn't get into the femaleworkers' dormitory，I squatted outside the duty roomof and waited. Later， the elder sister of the duty roomrecognized me and let me wait in the duty room."

The two settled down in Xiaheng Streetafter getting married. The street lies near today'sChongqing Grand Theater. Although lived in oneof the rows of old bungalows with mottled wallsand old wooden doors. it is full of warmth in UncleWang's heart. "The savory smell of twice cookedpork can travel far away from a house to eight to ninehouses. Then there'll always be a sister Li and brotherLiu come for a taste taking their own rice bowls."

"Between Jiangbei Park and Xiaheng Street，there's a 'Jiangbei Theater' where we listened toSichuan Opera and watched movies. As there werefew film in those days， new films and old ones wereplayed altemately. each cost 15 cents." This is also asweet memory of the couple.

Walking up the Xiaheng Street， you'll get toShangheng Street. "In summer. there were a lot of'shirtless black-face Bao Gong' on the street. At thattime， every household used honeycomb briquet toboil water and cook. Every ten or fifteen days. themen in the family would bring coal tickets. basketsand pole to the coal shop on Shangheng Street topick honeycomb briquet."

In addition to the coal shop， the ChongqingWeaving Factory where the couple once worked alsosit in Shangheng Street. At its peak. the factory had 2，000to 3，000 employees， hence the name "Half JiangbeiCity". When Chongqing Weaving Factory expandedits factory in 1982. excavators suddenly dug up a hugestone tablet - the tomb of Ming Yuzhen the emperor ofthe Daxia Kingdom， which had been sleeping for 616years， reappeared in the world.

In 1997. Chongqing Weaving Factorydisintegrated， and only the Rui Mausoleum was wellpreserved.

Today， the highest point in Jiangbei City hasbecome Area A of the Central Park in JiangbeizuiCentral Business District.

消失的老地名

Disappearing Old Place Names

2003年10月12日，下橫街的三棟樓房轟然倒下，成為江北城大規(guī)模拆遷的第一爆。這也是當(dāng)時(shí)主城區(qū)規(guī)模最大的一次爆破，王大爺一家就在這一年搬出了下橫街。

江北城開始了轉(zhuǎn)變。6萬人居住的江北城成了財(cái)富匯聚的“江北嘴”，“江北城”三個(gè)字出現(xiàn)在“江北城隧道”“江北城立交”“江北城大街”這些新地名里，但城里的那些老街老巷，卻漸漸成了人們口中的傳奇。

“在重慶方言里，‘傘’叫做‘撐花’。江北城里有這樣一條街，清末民初時(shí)，街上的住戶大都以制作雨傘為業(yè)，所以取名‘撐花街’。”王大爺說，江北城的每個(gè)老地名背后都有故事，就以行當(dāng)為例，除了撐花街，江北城還有兩條街也因行當(dāng)而得名。

一條是原重慶織布廠附近的洗布塘街。街上有個(gè)水塘，因?yàn)橛锌棽既思以谒料礈焐级妹?/p>

另一條則是金沙打鐵街，現(xiàn)在叫金沙門路?！爸貞c開埠后，江北嘉陵江邊有很多木船修造廠。給船廠打船釘鐵鋦、給百姓打火鉤火鉗的鐵匠鋪大多集中在金沙街。街上終日爐火熊熊，叮叮當(dāng)當(dāng)，江對(duì)岸朝天門、千廝門、臨江門一帶也能聽到。金沙街就被叫成了打鐵街。新名舊姓加在一起，就有了金沙打鐵街。”

雖然這些街巷，連同徹夜的爐火、熱鬧的叫賣聲，都已消逝在時(shí)光的長河中，但也有一些街道被保留了下來，盡管風(fēng)景已變了模樣。

穿過中央公園B區(qū)，濕潤的空氣中有暗香浮動(dòng)。“桂花街！”陳大媽脫口而出，“從清末起，這里就叫桂花街了，因?yàn)檫@里有一片桂花樹?！?/p>

眼前的桂花街，兩旁依舊栽著桂花樹?；蛟S樹已不是當(dāng)年的那些樹，但因了這些樹，桂花街才依舊是名副其實(shí)的桂花街。每當(dāng)花開時(shí)節(jié)，微風(fēng)吹過，沁人的花香彌散整條街道，就像當(dāng)年一樣彌散在老江北城人的心里。

歲月悠悠，桂花街上花香如故，保定門外江聲依舊。它們陪伴江北城一路走來，也將繼續(xù)見證江北城日新月異的未來。

On October 12. 2003. three buildings inXiaheng Street collapsed， becoming the firstexplosion of large-scale demolition in Jiangbei City.It was also the largest explosion in the main urbanarea at that time. and in the same year. Uncle Wang'sfamily moved out of Xiaheng Street.

Jiangbei City began to make a change. JiangbeiCity inhabited by 60，000 people， has become the"Jiangbeizui" where a great deal of wealth gathers，leaving the words "Jiangbei City" appearing onlyin new place names of "Jiangbei City Tunnel"."Jiangbei City Interchange" and "Jiangbei CityStreet". However. the old streets and alleys in the cityhave gradually become legends in people's heart.

"In Chongqing dialect. 'umbrella' is called'supporting flowers'. In late Qing and early Republicof China. there's a street in Jiangbei City， most of theresidents in the street made a living by producingumbrellas. So it was named 'Chenghua Street"'.Uncle Wang said that there are stories behind eachold place name in Jiangbei City. In addition toChenghua Street. two other streets in Jiangbei Cityare also named after their trade.

One is Xibutang Street near the formerChongqing Weaving Factory. There is a pond in thestreet. where weavers used to wash colored cloth.That's why it is called Xibutang Street.

The other is Jinshadatie Street. now calledJinshamen Road. "Afier Chongqing opened its port.many a wooden boat repair factories showed upalong the Jialing River in Jiangbei City. Most of theblacksmiths' shops that nail ships and iron cunumfor shipyards and fire hooks and poker tongs for thecommon people are concentrated in Jinsha Street.The streets are full of fires and tinkling all day long.The noise was so loud that they even could beenheard at Chaotian Gate， Qiansi Gate and LinjiangGate on the other side of the river. Jinsha Street thusgot the name Datie Street. The new and old namesputting together. we then have the Jinshadatie Street."

These streets. together with the all-night firesand the bustling cries， have all disappeared in thelong river of time. Some， though preserved. nowhave totally different scenenes.

Walking through Block B of the Central Park.there's a faint fragrance floating in the humid air."Guihua Street！" Aunt Chen blurted out. "Since theend of the Qing Dynasty， this place has been calledGuihua Street because there's a osmanthus forestry."

Today's Guihua Street still has osmanthus treesplanted on both sides. Perhaps they are no longer thetrees in those years， but because of them Guihua Streetbecomes the real Guihua Street. Whenever the flowersbloom. the refreshing fragrance of flowers diffusesthrougout the street as breeze blows， pervading in thehearts of the old residents of Jiangbei City.

Time goes by， yet the fragrance of flowers inthe Guihua Street remains. and the sound of riveroutside Baoding Gate lingers. Accompanied JiangbeiCity along the way， they will also witness the ever-changing future of Jiangbei City.