一絲一線繡出傳承之美

徐繼宏

一針一線，一帛一裳，手繡是千年傳承的中國傳統(tǒng)文化，守護的是老祖宗的手藝和匠心。為了更好地將手繡技藝傳承，王玉平先后赴蘇州學蘇繡，到貴州找苗繡，到廣州訪盤金繡，到東北尋滿繡……

眼前的王玉平，一襲典雅精致的繡服，把整個人裝扮得賞心悅目。

“穿上手繡的服飾，我是不是一點都不像60歲的女人，既顯年輕，又賦活力？”王玉平快人快語。她說，她的夢想是能夠為傳承中華民族的手繡文化做點事，讓手繡女紅代代相傳。

童年種下一個手繡夢

刺繡，俗稱“繡花”，分機繡與手繡，在已加工好的織物上，以針引線，通過運針將繡線組織成各種圖案和色彩的一種技藝。

“手繡是一門藝術，更是一種文化?！蓖跤衿綇男∩钤谡銝|南沿海小城，在她的記憶中，最常做的事情就是依偎在外婆身邊，幫外婆穿針搓線，看外婆捻著針的手指揚起又落下，把路邊的花鳥和山澗的水流繡進絲綢錦緞中。外婆還經(jīng)常帶著她走街穿巷，跟深諳刺繡技巧的老繡娘學習討教。當外婆的巧手將彩絲繡進錦緞，一幅幅精美的繡品在她眼前誕生的時候，一場關于手繡的夢在她幼小的心里扎根發(fā)芽。

傳統(tǒng)，就是永遠的時尚。王玉平說，童年時期她還有一個愛好就是跟著大人們走街串巷地看戲，特別是看到穿著戲服的演員在舞臺上演出，心里很是羨慕。繡龍刺鳳，花團錦簇，艷麗多彩……在王玉平的腦海里，每個繡品都是快樂的化身和溫暖的代名詞。

青年和中年時期的王玉平忙于家庭和事業(yè)，如今，王玉平與丈夫一起經(jīng)營的企業(yè)風生水起，兩個孩子也已成家立業(yè)，有了自己的事業(yè)和前程。但對于家庭幸福、事業(yè)有成的王玉平來說，手繡始終是她心中的愛、夢想和追求。

辦學堂推廣傳統(tǒng)技藝

手繡技藝是中華傳統(tǒng)文化的代表之一，如何將歷史悠久的滿繡、蘇繡工藝與華服、旗袍的設計相結合，完美打造獨具美麗和國韻的東方繡衣文化，使傳統(tǒng)手藝與現(xiàn)代工藝結合，讓手繡作品呈現(xiàn)時代芳華？王玉平一直在思考、在探尋。

2014年的一次海南行，讓王玉平開始圓夢。在當?shù)氐囊患摇坝鲆娛掷C”服飾店，華麗的手繡服飾一下子撞開了她的心扉?！爱敃r太激動了，多年的思考、探索和兒時的回憶一下子涌入腦海。當時，花了十幾萬元，把店里好看的服飾全部買了回來。回來以后，還激動了好幾天。別人收藏古玩，我收藏手繡服飾。直到現(xiàn)在，看到這些藏品還愛不釋手?！睆拇?，在王玉平的心里多了一個結，傳承手繡技藝的愿望與日俱增。

王玉平告訴筆者，在走訪手繡藝人的過程中，她發(fā)現(xiàn)現(xiàn)在的手工刺繡藝術家大都已年過半百，有些傳統(tǒng)工藝再不挖掘就可能面臨失傳。手繡是一項細活、慢活，需要耐得住寂寞，更需要有一份對傳統(tǒng)文化藝術的熱愛。王玉平?jīng)Q定創(chuàng)辦手繡學堂，搭建繡娘生存的市場平臺，讓手繡這門技藝得以傳承接續(xù)，讓從事手繡女紅技藝的藝術家有更大的生存空間。

近年來，王玉平跑了全國多個城市，結識了許多繡娘，令她更開心的是找到了揚州手繡工藝大師朱軍成，遇見了杭州手繡工藝大師陳水琴，這更加堅定了她要讓手繡女紅代代相傳的想法。

經(jīng)過努力，2018年初，在家人的支持下，王玉平以蘇繡和滿繡的傳統(tǒng)工藝為傳承對象，組建了屬于自己的繡娘團隊、手繡服裝設計團隊及走秀表演隊（爵繡十三釵），成立了杭州爵繡服裝文化有限公司，專賣繡娘的繡品，還可以為客戶專門定制手繡品。這既增加了繡娘的收入，又找到了手繡技藝的傳播、傳承載體，讓手繡女紅開始走進公眾的視野。

把手繡推向國際舞臺

一針一線，一帛一裳，手繡是千年傳承的中國傳統(tǒng)文化，守護的是老祖宗的手藝和匠心。為了更好地將手繡技藝傳承，王玉平先后赴蘇州學蘇繡，到貴州找苗繡，到廣州訪盤金繡，到東北尋滿繡……在她的努力下，公司里90后繡娘開始發(fā)揮主力軍作用。

手工刺繡能繡出靈魂，繡出溫度。在王玉平眼里，繡藝華服是彰顯女人智慧、氣質(zhì)和優(yōu)雅形體的綜合體，它集手藝、審美、養(yǎng)心于一體?！耙欢ㄒ咽掷C培訓開展下去，讓手繡走向世界，展現(xiàn)美麗的中國文化。”

在王玉平的腦海里，手繡要拓展市場，必須走出國門。如今，王玉平除了以“爵繡品鑒會”的模式在各大城市推廣傳播手繡外，還走出了國門，走向了世界舞臺。她和她的團隊先后赴美國、澳大利亞、德國、意大利、法國、瑞士、瑞典等國家演講和走秀，受到了歡迎，收獲了贊譽，影響力正在不斷擴大。

與此同時，王玉平還想把繡服的技藝美、服飾美傳遞到每一個家庭?！拔矣幸粋€愿望，就是要讓中國傳統(tǒng)手繡活起來、傳下去，用手繡藝術美化我們的生活，溫暖每一個家庭?！?/p>

Sitting down with Wang Yuping， an outspoken lady dressed stylishly， to discuss her embroidery works and dreams， was an interesting encounter to say the least.

“Do I look like a woman in my 60s？ A hand-made garment like this really makes me feel young and energetic. And this is my Chinese dream that I want to share with all the others，” Wang Yuping declares.

“Embroidery is not only art but also culture.” Wang Yuping grew up surrounded by the exquisite， colorful needlework of her skilled grandma， who learned the trade from some of the master embroiders in her hometown in southeastern Zhejiang Province. Wangs favorite pastime when she was a little girl was snuggling up next to her grandma and watching her tread the needle on a piece of cloth and churn out the most beautiful patterns the little girl could ever wish to see， like there was some kind of magic behind the stitches.

Tradition is fashion. “When I was a little girl I watched village operas a lot. I was fascinated by the dazzling colors of the costumes on the village stage， and dreamt of being on the stage in costume and make-up someday，” Wang recalled. In the eye of the girl， the beautiful handmade clothes were the synonym of happiness and solace， and took her breath away.

In her adulthood years， Wang realized her childhood dream had to play second fiddle to the serious business of raising children and putting bread on the table. She spent many years working with her husband to focus on their entrepreneurial routines， but had never put her embroidery dream behind her mind， contenting herself by collecting embroidery works for enjoyment and inspiration. The new start came when she was traveling in Hainan and walked into a clothes shop.

“It was eye-opening， just like all the thoughts over the years were put together to make me realize what I really wanted to do and what I could do to make my dreams come true. I spent quite a lot in that shop and brought home as many pieces as I could.”

For Wang Yuping， embroidery is not about making money or pursuing fame， but more about keeping this exquisite craft alive and finding people to pass the relay baton on to. “It takes patience and real passion，” Wang shares. Over the years， she has been trying her best to promote the craft by working with embroiders based in other cities， including Zhu Juncheng， an outstanding embroidery master based in Yangzhou， Jiangsu Province.

Keen to put her own stamp on this fine Chinese tradition， Wang Yuping launched her own embroidery company in 2018. The Hangzhou-based company has a embroider team， a design team and a model team of 13 members.

The dreamer has visited all of Chinas “embroidery cities” where she exchanged ideas with the local artists， learned more about the craft as well as its cultural prowess， and explored collaboration possibilities. Wang has taken in a few good apprentices over the years， some born in the 1990s. “What I want to achieve is to share the enormous beauty of Chinese embroidery not only with more people in China but with the whole world.”

Wang Yuping has brought her “Juexiu” brand and products to many cities in China， and has seen her models perform on the runways of many countries including the US， Australia， Germany， Italy， France， Switzerland and Sweden， where her embroidery works in various different styles of Chinese embroidery art have garnered a growing fandom.

“Chinese embroidery is all about beauty and class. It is much more than a craft in the museum. It is something that can be shared and appreciated by all people. Chinese embroidery is a symbol of oriental elegance and grace， and can work magic in womens fashion. It makes life more beautiful， and can bring out the best of feminine charm.”

Wang Yupings ambition also includes an embroidery museum.