請(qǐng)沿“萬(wàn)里茶道”來(lái)貝加爾湖

弗拉基米爾·別列日內(nèi)赫

這是我第一次到杭州，雖然以前也曾聽到和讀到過(guò)很多關(guān)于杭州的故事。和我所期望的一樣，這里的人們熱情好客。

我以《中國(guó)與俄羅斯》雜志主編的身份，受邀參加了首屆浙江省國(guó)際友城媒體合作傳播論壇。

我們的雜志創(chuàng)刊至今已經(jīng)整整10年了。當(dāng)然，在這些年里，我不止一次到中國(guó)各省游覽、拜訪?？墒?，這是我第一次到杭州，雖然以前也曾聽到和讀到過(guò)很多關(guān)于杭州的故事。浙江省省會(huì)城市杭州果真和我所期望的一樣，這里的人們熱情好客。杭州產(chǎn)茶——西湖龍井，是中國(guó)十大名茶之一。

說(shuō)到茶葉，不得不說(shuō)到對(duì)中俄貿(mào)易產(chǎn)生過(guò)重要影響的“萬(wàn)里茶道”。由中國(guó)山西的晉商開拓并主導(dǎo)、沿線商民共同參與運(yùn)轉(zhuǎn)的中俄萬(wàn)里茶道，從17世紀(jì)至20世紀(jì)初持續(xù)興盛，成為繼絲綢之路后溝通歐亞大陸的又一條國(guó)際商路。

因?yàn)槲覀兊碾s志要做有關(guān)“萬(wàn)里茶道”的報(bào)道，所以我去過(guò)茶道沿線的很多中國(guó)節(jié)點(diǎn)城市，或通過(guò)其他某種方式與之相關(guān)聯(lián)。

山西省平遙縣是我去過(guò)的其中一個(gè)城市。很多從事中國(guó)茶葉貿(mào)易的非常著名的商人都來(lái)自平遙。除此之外，平遙也有很多能夠給茶葉貿(mào)易提供資金、給商人貸款以購(gòu)買茶葉的銀行，所以歷史學(xué)家有充分理由認(rèn)為平遙是“茶葉之路上的金融之都”。

在俄羅斯曾經(jīng)也有這樣的金融之都——一個(gè)名叫恰克圖的小城。當(dāng)?shù)厣倘艘惨圆枞~貿(mào)易致富。然后，他們用自己的錢建造了教堂、學(xué)校，甚至還建造了博物館。如今的恰克圖小城已經(jīng)褪去了昔日的繁華，但它依然是一個(gè)重要的物流中心，因?yàn)閺亩砹_斯通往中國(guó)的鐵路和公路都需要經(jīng)過(guò)這里。

于是，我們有了一個(gè)在恰克圖和平遙之間建立友好城市關(guān)系的想法。這個(gè)想法得到了恰克圖市政府的支持。通過(guò)我們中國(guó)合作伙伴的努力，我們的想法也得到了平遙市政府的關(guān)注。很快，在2019年2月，恰克圖的一個(gè)代表團(tuán)和作為《中國(guó)與俄羅斯》雜志主編的我受邀到了平遙。緊接著，雙方開始一起著手準(zhǔn)備關(guān)于建立友好城市關(guān)系的協(xié)議并達(dá)成共識(shí)。6月，恰克圖就迎來(lái)了一個(gè)由政府官員和企業(yè)家組成的回訪代表團(tuán)。在這期間，代表團(tuán)了解了恰克圖市的投資項(xiàng)目，包括建造“復(fù)興萬(wàn)里茶道”歷史公園項(xiàng)目和在恰克圖開辦茶葉包裝廠項(xiàng)目。與此同時(shí)，雙方簽署了關(guān)于在文化、教育、醫(yī)學(xué)領(lǐng)域及少兒團(tuán)體互換交流方面的合作協(xié)議。

要知道“萬(wàn)里茶道”沿線可是有上百個(gè)中國(guó)節(jié)點(diǎn)城市和數(shù)十個(gè)俄羅斯節(jié)點(diǎn)城市。所以我堅(jiān)信復(fù)興“萬(wàn)里茶道”是可能的，首要途徑就是通過(guò)旅游業(yè)來(lái)實(shí)現(xiàn)。如果茶商們?cè)?jīng)是沿著它來(lái)運(yùn)輸茶葉，那么現(xiàn)在游客也可以沿著它去旅行。沿途，他們將會(huì)了解不同城市的文化、歷史和今天，購(gòu)買當(dāng)?shù)鼐用裆a(chǎn)的商品，包括紀(jì)念品和藝術(shù)品。這將是一場(chǎng)真正的長(zhǎng)達(dá)萬(wàn)里的文化與旅游產(chǎn)品的對(duì)話。難怪那么多人把“萬(wàn)里茶道”叫作“絲綢之路的北方走廊”。

當(dāng)然，我們不能只想著今天的“萬(wàn)里茶道”，要嚴(yán)格按照古商隊(duì)路線——以河北、江西、江蘇、浙江為起始點(diǎn)，先到達(dá)北京、張家口，然后到達(dá)恰克圖、貝加爾湖、伊爾庫(kù)茨克，最后結(jié)束于莫斯科和彼得堡?，F(xiàn)如今出現(xiàn)了一些新的運(yùn)輸線路，比如，北方海路，從某種程度上來(lái)說(shuō)，它是古茶道的發(fā)展和延續(xù)。最重要的一點(diǎn)是，今天的“萬(wàn)里茶道”是中俄蒙三國(guó)互利合作的標(biāo)志。

我特別希望，有一天杭州人民可以來(lái)到俄羅斯，特別是可以沿著古代“萬(wàn)里茶道”，來(lái)到我們這里，來(lái)到貝加爾湖！

（原文為俄語(yǔ)，本文由莫斯科羅蒙諾索夫國(guó)立大學(xué)在讀博士生李螺凱翻譯。）

I feel honored to be given the chance to take part in the Hangzhou forum. As the editor-in-chief of China and Russia， launched 10 years ago， I have been to many places in China. This was my first time in Hangzhou. Before I came here I read a lot and heard a lot about the fabulous city. When I saw the city with my own two eyes， it was like all my expectations became reality and the hospitality of people here made the trip a perfect one.

One of the citys most famous calling cards is West Lake Longjing Tea， ranking among “top 10” tea varieties in China. From historical perspectives， tea is also an important element in China-Russia trade communication. The “tea road”， a trade route created by traders from Shanxi Province in the old times of China， prospered for more than three centuries from the 17th century. Just like the “silk road”， it was once a bustling route that fostered enduring economic and cultural Eurasian communication.

I have been to many cities in China that once served as key points of the “tea road”， including Pingyao in Shanxi Province. Historians have reached a consensus that the charming town with unique historical profundity was once the “capital of finance” of the “tea road”， and the towns unique tea trade glory is partly based on the reliable capital support ensured by a good many banks providing various financial schemes for tea dealers.

Interestingly， Pingyao has its counterpart in Russia. The small town of Kyakhta also boasts a long history of tea trade. The towns former glory that transformed into a good many churches， schools and museums has become dust-laden， but it still serves as an important logistic center， due to its geographical location that makes the town a conduit in the railway and highway network of China-Russia transport today.

Such historical likeness has led to the proposal of establishing sister city relation between the two towns. In February of 2019， I was in Pingyao with a delegation representing Kyakhta to work out more details for the project. A follow-up visit in June of the same year by a delegation representing Pingyao made more paperwork into reality – the delegation went back to China with a series of contracts signed with the Kyakhta government， which marked a good start in the “renaissance” of the China-Russia “tea road”.

In its heyday， the “tea road” involved the participation of more than 100 cities in China and a dozen cities and towns in Russia. I am a firm believer in such renaissance through tourism innovation. For people today， the “tea road” has much more worth exploring beyond the transport of tea. The route that connects two different cultures encapsulated in so many cities and towns is ideal for modern people to have a deeper understanding of the past and present of cities and towns involved. The possibilities of cultural exchange and trade benefits to be generated by this meandering stretch are beyond imagination.

For people today， the revisiting of the road does not have to follow the original route that started from， say， Zhejiang Province and ended in Moscow and Petersburg. There are new sites for exploration， for example， the “sea route in the north”. In a sense， the renaissance of the “tea road” also includes a new chapter that is called “Mongolia”.

I look forward to seeing people from Hangzhou visit Russia by taking this ancient route.

Welcome to Baikal！

（The original text in Russian is translated into Chinese by Li Luokai， currently a doctoral student at Lomonosov Moscow State University.）