高原茶旅 踏歌而行

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茶是用來泡的。殊不知，茶也是拿來旅行的。

就像貴州。跟隨中國畫報協(xié)會的同行走進古夜郎，連片的茶園踏歌而來，“茶旅融合”成為“多彩貴州”的有機組成元素。

這是一場非常規(guī)的旅行。單純而不單調(diào)，清爽卻不寡淡。

在貴州來一場與茶有關(guān)的旅行，必要的攻略不可少。話說，依時下考證，云貴高原和湖南的一部分，是世界茶葉的原產(chǎn)地。1980年，在貴州晴隆縣，發(fā)現(xiàn)了迄今為止世界上僅存的唯一一顆茶籽化石，初步考證其歷史在100萬年以上。陸羽所著《茶經(jīng)》關(guān)于茶葉出產(chǎn)地，有“黔中生思州、夷洲、播州、費州……往往得之，其味極佳”的記載。

古云，“積善之家，必有余慶?！辟F州的產(chǎn)茶地，就有一個叫“余慶”的縣，也是這次高原茶旅的首站。

下著小雨，位于海拔800米之上的山地茶園，云遮霧罩。這里是余慶縣花山鄉(xiāng)的貴之緣茶業(yè)基地，大片大片的茶綠之中，采茶人“點綴”其間，或紅、或藍、或黃的著裝，成為視覺上最好的裝點。

霧氣蒸騰，如薄紗從新葉嫩綠的芽尖滑過。即便再無美感之人，此刻也會被這夢幻的景致所震撼。

移步去往一個叫“隔山門”的地方。連片的茶園與不遠處的“飛龍湖”遙相呼應(yīng)，極度契合中國傳統(tǒng)的水墨意境。

這與相鄰的鳳岡縣的“茶海之心”也極為相似。

自余慶前往鳳岡，沿途總能看見“東有龍井、西有鳳岡”這樣的標語——出產(chǎn)“鳳岡鋅硒茶”的貴州鳳岡，與出產(chǎn)“西湖龍井”的浙江杭州，牽手一片茶葉。

Tea is used through brewing. Hardly imagine, tea is also used for journey.

Just like in Guizhou. Following colleagues from China Association of Pictorials into ancient Yelang, walking and singing along the stretches of tea gardens, the "integration of tea and tourism" became an organic element of "Colorful Guizhou".

↑ 布依姑娘采茶

鳳岡鋅硒茶

都勻毛尖茶

This was an unconventional journey. Simple but not monotonous, refreshing but not dull.

For a tea-related journey in Guizhou, travel strategy is absolutely necessary. According to current research, Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau and part of Hunan are the origin of tea in the world. In 1980, the only remaining tea seed fossil in the world was found in Qinglong County, Guizhou Province, and after preliminary research, its history dates back to over 1 million years ago. The Book of Tea by Lu Yu has a record on the origin of tea which goes that "the origin of tea in central Guizhou, Sizhou, Yizhou, Bozhou and Feizhou… are often where they are obtained and have excellent taste".

An old saying goes "Virtuous individuals and families are often more blessed with good fortune."There is a county called "Qingyu" in Guizhou where tea is produced, which is also the first stop of this journey to highland tea.

It was drizzling, and the mountain tea garden,located 800 meters above sea level, was shrouded in clouds and fog. This is the tea industry base in Huashan Town, Yuqing County, where tea pickers "adorned" the large stretches of tea plantation, either dressed in red,blue or yellow, making it the best visual decoration.

Floating mist like tulle flows through the green shoot tips of new leaves. Even those who have no aesthetic sense will be amazed with this dreamy scene at the moment.

We moved to a place called "Geshanmen". The stretches of tea gardens and the nearby "Feilong Lake" echoed each other from afar and were extremely compatible with the artistic conception of Chinese traditional ink painting.

This was also extremely similar to the "Heart of Tea Sea" in the neighboring Fenggang County.

From Yuaing to Fenggang, we could always see the slogan "Longjing in East China and Fenggang in West China"-Fenggang, Guizhou, which produces"Fenggang Zinc and Selenium Tea", and Hangzhou of Zhejiang province, which produces "West Lake Longjing Tea", were connected through a leaf of tea.

其實，“茶海之心”是鳳岡一大片茶園茶山的統(tǒng)稱。登上仙人嶺，翠綠的茶園盡收眼底，一行一行茶樹，讓茶園有了極具美感的波浪式線條。尚未來得及采摘的茶葉嫩芽，鵝黃色，遠觀如帶，成為茶園最好的點睛之筆。散落在茶海中的民居，更添田園畫風(fēng)。

從余慶到鳳岡，從鳳岡到湄潭，一路行來，雖都是看茶，卻各有各的妙處與個性，比如余慶的“水墨”，鳳岡的“田園”，湄潭的“大氣”。

都勻又不同。作為此行最后一站，此處茶園營造的視覺美感，多了一分山地的壯觀。都勻備選的茶旅去處太多，我們最后選擇了一個叫螺絲殼的茶產(chǎn)業(yè)基地。螺絲殼的茶葉都種植在坡度較大的山地上，擇任一山頭登頂，四周茶綠撲面而來。時下，如余慶的松煙鎮(zhèn)二龍村、鳳岡的“茶海之心”一樣，螺絲殼茶產(chǎn)業(yè)基地早已打造成“茶旅融合”的景區(qū)。

都勻螺螄殼茶山

“春來喜看貴茶綠”采訪團走進余慶縣

基地所在地，屬都勻市毛尖鎮(zhèn)。那里原本叫總陽，與另一個鄉(xiāng)鎮(zhèn)合并后，叫了“毛尖鎮(zhèn)”——“都勻毛尖”系中國十大名茶之一，鎮(zhèn)以茶名，自是情理之中。

一場茶葉之旅，“看茶”僅是養(yǎng)眼，“品茶”慰勞舌尖。

貴州茶有“三綠一紅”之說?！叭G”指的是都勻毛尖、湄潭翠芽、鳳岡綠寶石，“一紅”就是“遵義紅”。此行每至一處，流連茶園茶山，尋一歇腳處，泡上一杯貴州綠茶，立馬有了“一杯春露香透齒”的感覺。

聽當?shù)匮芯空哒f，舊時貴州大部分地區(qū)有“以茶為聘”“茶定終身”的婚俗規(guī)制，俗稱“三回九轉(zhuǎn)”?！叭亍保悍判挪瑁喾Q頭書；二道茶，亦稱允書；三道茶，亦稱庚書。在“三茶”基礎(chǔ)上，再完成“六禮”，即“納彩、問名、納喜、納征、請期、親迎”?！叭琛奔由稀傲Y”即為“九轉(zhuǎn)”，是為“三回九轉(zhuǎn)”。茶葉在貴州民俗中的重要性可見一斑。

如今，舊俗早已不存，茶葉擔(dān)當起了新的產(chǎn)業(yè)角色，700萬畝茶園已投產(chǎn)561萬畝，產(chǎn)量36.2萬噸，總產(chǎn)值394億元。茶葉本身，以及日漸成熟的“茶旅融合”，對產(chǎn)茶地的鄉(xiāng)親來說，更是脫貧致富的希望。

In fact, “the Heart of the Tea Sea” is a joint name for a large stretch of tea gardens and mountains in Fenggang. Climbing Xianrenling, you could have a panoramic view of the green tea gardens, with rows of tea trees,giving the tea gardens a very beautiful wavy line. The tender shoots of the tea leaves, which had not yet been picked, were yellow and looked like a belt from afar,making them the best finishing touch in the tea garden.The folk houses scattered in the tea sea accentuated the pastoral style.

All the way long from Yuqing to Fenggang, from Fenggang to Meitan, although they were tea watching,each had its own merits and features, such as Yuqing’s“ink painting”, Fenggang’s “pastoral style” and Meitan’s “spectacular sight”.

While Duyun is different. As the last stop of this journey, the visual beauty created by the tea gardens here was a bit more spectacular in term of the mountain.Duyun has too many places for tea journeys to choose from, so we finally chose a tea industry base called Luosike. The tea of Luosike are all planted on the mountain with a large slope, and at any mountain top when you mounted, you would be overwhelmed by the tea green plantation around. At present, like the “Heart of the Tea Sea” in Erlong Village of Songyan Town of Yuqing and Fenggang, the tea industry base of Luosike had long been a scenic spot for “integration of tea and tourism”.

The base is located in Maojian Town of Duyun City.It was originally called Zongyang and after merging with another township, it was called Maojian Town-”Duyun Maojian” is one of the top ten famous teas in China. It is natural that the town is named after tea.

For a journey to tea, “tea watching” is only to please the eyes and “tea tasting” delights the tip of the tongue.

Guizhou tea has the saying of “Three Greens and One Red”. “Three Greens” refers to Duyun Maojian,Meitan Cuiya and Fenggang Emerald, “One Red” refers “Zunyihong (or Zunyi Red)”. At every place of the journey, I would linger in the tea garden, find a place to rest and make a cup of Guizhou green tea, which immediately made me feel “a cup of spring dew refreshing the teeth”.

According to local researchers, in the old days,most areas in Guizhou had a marriage custom of “betrothing through tea” and “tea determines marriage life”, commonly known as “Three Rounds and Nine Turns”. “Three Rounds”: Fangxincha (trusting tea),also known as Toushu; the second round of tea, also known as Yunshu; the third round tea, also known as Gengshu. On the basis of the “Three Teas”, the “Six Rites” would be completed, namely, “receiving betrothal gifts, asking for the name and birth date, practicing divination, receiving betrothal presents,proposing marriage date, and greeting and receiving the bride by bridegroom personally”. “Three Teas” plus “Six Rites” means “Nine Turns”, which are called “Three Rounds and Nine Turns”, which shows the importance of tea in Guizhou folk customs.

Today, the old customs have long been gone, and tea has taken on a new industrial role. The 5.61 million Mu of 7 million Mu tea garden has been put into production, yielding 362,000 tons with a total output value of 39.4 billion RMB Yuan. The tea itself and the maturing“integration of tea and tourism” are more of hope for villagers in the tea-producing areas to shake off poverty and become rich.