阿萊西奧：在寧夏釀造葡萄酒

文/弗特納多·阿萊西奧（Fortunato Alessio）

寧夏的葡萄有寧夏的性情

2013年，我第一次來(lái)到寧夏，那時(shí)是來(lái)拜訪幾家中國(guó)酒莊，并和我的一個(gè)中國(guó)學(xué)生會(huì)面，他和愛(ài)人在寧夏經(jīng)營(yíng)著一個(gè)酒莊。在那之前，我對(duì)寧夏略有耳聞，但沒(méi)有什么直觀的認(rèn)識(shí)。雖然我在知名的葡萄酒產(chǎn)區(qū)有著豐富的咨詢經(jīng)驗(yàn)，但在意大利，甚至在歐洲都很難獲取寧夏的有關(guān)信息。所以我來(lái)到寧夏后首先分析它的外部條件，如天氣、土壤和氣候，這些是一個(gè)地區(qū)是否適合種植釀酒葡萄的先決條件。

榨季時(shí)我在寧夏待了近兩個(gè)月，經(jīng)驗(yàn)告訴我，寧夏是一個(gè)優(yōu)秀的葡萄酒產(chǎn)區(qū)，可以生產(chǎn)出能與如波爾多和巴羅洛等世界最著名的產(chǎn)區(qū)相媲美的甚至更優(yōu)質(zhì)的葡萄酒。這里的天氣條件和歐洲其他地方大不相同，冬季和夏季的天氣更加極端。冬季嚴(yán)寒，氣溫會(huì)下降到零下25℃，并持續(xù)一個(gè)多月，葡萄藤會(huì)被凍死，所以在冬季來(lái)臨之前，葡萄藤被土埋了起來(lái)。夏季炎熱干燥，白天氣溫會(huì)超過(guò)35℃，晚上的溫度因地區(qū)而有差異，特別是靠近山區(qū)的地方氣溫會(huì)下降到15℃—18℃，晝夜溫差巨大。除此之外，不同地區(qū)的土壤類型也有很大差異，有些地區(qū)更接近黏土，而有些地區(qū)沙質(zhì)特征更明顯。這里在冬季來(lái)臨之前葡萄藤就要被埋起來(lái)，等到春天再挖出來(lái)，導(dǎo)致葡萄藤的植物生長(zhǎng)和成熟并不理想，有些地區(qū)的葡萄品種如赤霞珠并沒(méi)有足夠的時(shí)間成熟。因此，在有些地區(qū)，赤霞珠并不是最能表達(dá)寧夏“風(fēng)土”的理想品種。如今隨著釀酒工藝的發(fā)展，一些人工產(chǎn)品可以用來(lái)提升葡萄酒質(zhì)量，但我個(gè)人理想的風(fēng)格以及釀酒實(shí)踐告訴我要盡可能少地去使用釀酒產(chǎn)品，盡量讓葡萄酒自己說(shuō)話。我在擔(dān)任《吉爾伯特&蓋拉德國(guó)際葡萄酒指南》中國(guó)區(qū)總監(jiān)期間，一年間品嘗并評(píng)價(jià)了142種中國(guó)葡萄酒，其中大部分來(lái)自寧夏，毫無(wú)疑問(wèn)，寧夏有實(shí)力成為世界領(lǐng)先的葡萄酒產(chǎn)區(qū)之一，但未來(lái)釀酒師應(yīng)該開(kāi)始種植更適合寧夏風(fēng)土的葡萄品種，也許研究并種植意大利南部的釀酒葡萄會(huì)是一個(gè)有趣的選擇。

Ningxia Grape Has Its Own Flavour

The first time that I visited Ningxia region was in 2013,in order to visit several Chinese wineries and meet one of my Chinese students that opened a winery there with his wife. Before 2013, I had some pieces of information about Ningxia region but I didn’t have a clear idea of what I should really expect. I have acquired international wine consulting experience from the top wine growing areas of the world, but it is hard to have more data information about Ningxia region in Europe, or at least in Italy. So I started my adventure analyzing Ningxia from the exogenous conditions such a weather, soil and climate. Those are the first things for me to consider evaluating if a place is suitable to grow wine grapes.

I spent almost 2 months in Ningxia during the harvest time, and after my experience, I can definitely say that Ningxia is an excellent production area to make higher quality wines that could compete with the most famous wine area of the world like Bordeaux, Barolo, etc. The weather conditions are different from other places of Europe, where conditions are more extreme during the winter and summer time. The winter is cold and the temperature drops down to -25°C for more than a month. The vine will die in this condition, so it must to be buried before the winter is coming. Summertime is hot and dry. The temperature goes up to +35°C during the day but during the night (depending on the area,but especially close to the hills), the temperature goes down to 15-18°C. This creates a big variance between day and nigh temperatures. The soil types are quite different depending on the region. In some areas the soil is more like clay, and in other areas the soil is sandier.The vine for Cabernet Sauvignon is presently grown in the widest variety of soil and region. In winter the vine must be buried underneath the soil, and it will be dug out in the spring. So I notice that the vegetative evolution and maturation of the vine is not ideal. I am fi rst a scientist and a wine consultant, so I saw that a variety of cabernet sauvignon in some areas have not had enough time to mature because the vine must be buried earlier before the winter. For this reason, in some areas of the Ningxia region, Cabernet Sauvignon is not the ideal variety to present as the best “Terroir” of Ningxia. Nowadays, with improvements in winemaking practices, you can def i nitely use some products in order to increase the quality level of the wine coming from the vineyard, but my personal ideal style and winemaking practices are to use as few as possible oenology products. The wine should talk for itself to us. I tasted and judged for the international wine guide Gilbert & Gaillard around 142 different Chinese wines a year, the majority from this region. Ningxia has everything to become one of the leader wine regions of the world, but future winemakers should consider starting to grow vine varieties more suitable for type of terroir that Ningxia offers, perhaps it will be interesting to research and plant wine grapes coming from south of Italy.

弗特納多·阿萊西奧，意大利人，中國(guó)西北農(nóng)林科技大學(xué)客座教授、西安葡萄酒商會(huì)聯(lián)合顧問(wèn)、《吉爾伯特&蓋拉德國(guó)際葡萄酒指南》中國(guó)區(qū)總監(jiān) ( Fortunato Alessio is from Italy. In 2014, he was employed as a visiting professor by Northwest A&F University of China. In 2015, he became a collaboration consultant for Xi’an Wine Chamber of Commerce and China Director for Gilbert & Gaillard)

成為賀蘭晴雪大家庭中的一員

我很榮幸能在賀蘭晴雪酒莊釀造葡萄酒。賀蘭晴雪是寧夏最著名的酒莊之一，也是中國(guó)第一家獲得品醇客獎(jiǎng)項(xiàng)的酒莊。2017年4月中旬，賀蘭晴雪與寧夏產(chǎn)區(qū)數(shù)十家酒莊在波黑的第20屆莫斯塔爾經(jīng)貿(mào)博覽會(huì)上亮相，讓我在開(kāi)始工作之前就對(duì)這里充滿期待。的確，和釀酒師張靜女士以及她的員工一起工作是一種美好的經(jīng)歷。在榨季我和他們一起工作了兩個(gè)月。一開(kāi)始，莊主給我買了新的工作鞋，還有一件可愛(ài)的印著“加貝蘭”標(biāo)志的夾克，我感覺(jué)自己就像是這個(gè)家庭中的一員。工作進(jìn)行得很順利，在采收季，我們多次去葡萄園檢查成熟度，因?yàn)槲蚁胗?00%成熟的葡萄完全體現(xiàn)寧夏葡萄的風(fēng)土和葡萄酒的風(fēng)格，在酒窖中盡量少使用人工產(chǎn)品。團(tuán)隊(duì)里的人都十分友好，每次都能陪我去葡萄園使用化學(xué)分析方法檢測(cè)成熟度。“加貝蘭”團(tuán)隊(duì)已經(jīng)習(xí)慣了通過(guò)努力工作，生產(chǎn)出更優(yōu)質(zhì)的葡萄酒，所以對(duì)他們來(lái)說(shuō)，在發(fā)酵和陳釀階段處理任何情況都不是難事。

Being One Family Member of Helan Qing Xue Winery

I had the chance to vinify my wine in Helan Qing Xue Winery, one of the most famous Chinese wineries and the first Chinese winery to receive an award from Decanter. So my expectation of this winery before starting work was high. In fact, it was a great experience to work with the wine maker Mrs. Zhang Jing and her staff. I spent 2 months with them during harvest time. In the first days of working the owners of the winery bought me new working shoes and a lovely jacket with the logo of Jia Bei Lan. I felt like a member of the family and it was a very emotional moment. The beginning of this experience started very well. During the harvest time, we went to check the status of the maturation many times in the vineyard, because I wanted to make sure to get the grape 100% ripe for my vinification style and to use less products in the cellar. The availability of the team was great to spend time in the vineyard with me, checking the maturity level using the analytical method. The Jiabeilan’s team is used to working hard to produce higher quality wines so it was not difficult to manage all situations during the vinification and ageing time.I don’t use a protocol for the vinification because every vintage is different. I taste the grape, and with the analysis, I will determine the best vinification for the type of grape that I got from the vineyard. Sometimes I saw the team of Jiabeilan quite surprised to see me present early in the morning until late night working in the cellar to check my wine status, but most of the time if I had the choice I would perform many operations by myself because I have a great experience by doing it alone. The Jiabeilan’s team was available every time to cooperate and work together, it was a professional exchange between different winemaking styles. When the grapes come to the winery, the team was already trained to destem and select only the best grapes for the vinification. It was an amazing experience be a wine maker in Ningxia. So from both sides, we have learnt from each other: The local people showed me the delicious food coming from the region and the amazing variety of food that you could get there is gorgeous, fresh and delicious.

我沒(méi)有墨守成規(guī)地跟著釀酒方案走，因?yàn)槊看吾劸贫疾煌?，我?huì)不斷品嘗酒樣，根據(jù)具體情況作出分析，比如我會(huì)依據(jù)葡萄類型選擇最好的釀酒工藝。有時(shí)他們看我從清晨到深夜都在酒窖里檢查葡萄酒狀態(tài)，感到十分吃驚，但大多數(shù)情況下我自己都毫無(wú)覺(jué)察，因?yàn)楹芏嗖僮鞫际俏乙粋€(gè)人完成，我很享受這種體驗(yàn)過(guò)程。每次需要協(xié)同合作時(shí)，“加貝蘭”團(tuán)隊(duì)都能積極配合，我們之間是一種不同釀酒風(fēng)格的專業(yè)性交流。所以，當(dāng)葡萄到達(dá)酒莊時(shí)，整個(gè)團(tuán)隊(duì)已經(jīng)訓(xùn)練有素，做好準(zhǔn)備去梗分揀，挑選最優(yōu)質(zhì)的葡萄來(lái)釀酒。在寧夏做釀酒師是一個(gè)奇妙的經(jīng)歷，在這個(gè)團(tuán)隊(duì)里，我們相互學(xué)習(xí)。當(dāng)?shù)厝诉€向我展示了寧夏特色美食，讓我享用到許許多多新鮮美味的食物，真是美妙的享受。我很享受在酒莊的生活時(shí)光，容健莊主把我當(dāng)作兒子看待，視我為家庭的一員。為了讓我不想家，他們還給我?guī)?lái)了一些國(guó)際食品，像意大利面、果醬，還有奶酪。葡萄酒是這里每個(gè)人共同的熱愛(ài)，我覺(jué)得和所有人分享我的經(jīng)驗(yàn)是一件了不起的事。

I enjoyed my time very much in the winery. The owners treated me like a son and member of their family. So that I would not feel homesick they also brought me some international food like pasta, marmalade and cheese.Everyone had in common the passion for wine and it was amazing to share my experience with all of them.

世界著名葡萄酒大師杰西斯·羅賓遜在賀蘭晴雪酒莊橡木桶上簽名

請(qǐng)你來(lái)發(fā)現(xiàn)寧夏酒莊的美妙

一個(gè)葡萄酒產(chǎn)區(qū)要成為一種標(biāo)志，有很多影響因素，比如風(fēng)土、環(huán)境、土壤、品種和人。這里的氣候和土壤類型有適合發(fā)展高品質(zhì)葡萄酒的潛力。同時(shí)，寧夏釀酒師也能在很短的時(shí)間內(nèi)迅速吸收外國(guó)專家的建議。

寧夏葡萄酒的質(zhì)量在逐年提升，我有機(jī)會(huì)為《吉爾伯特&蓋拉德國(guó)際葡萄酒指南》品嘗了寧夏周邊所有地區(qū)的葡萄酒，得分最高的就產(chǎn)自這里，品酒的經(jīng)歷充分證明寧夏葡萄酒的質(zhì)量。世界上沒(méi)有任何一個(gè)葡萄酒產(chǎn)區(qū)能在發(fā)展過(guò)程中得到國(guó)家和地方政府如此大的扶持。我在世界上所有的葡萄酒產(chǎn)區(qū)都生活過(guò)，在寧夏所感受到的是其他國(guó)家無(wú)法復(fù)制的。我十分欣賞中國(guó)政府以及寧夏葡萄酒產(chǎn)業(yè)發(fā)展局在發(fā)展寧夏葡萄酒產(chǎn)區(qū)中的完美合作。2013年我第一次來(lái)寧夏時(shí)，通往酒莊的道路尚未完工，而2017年的今天，我能駕車或騎車順利到達(dá)任何一個(gè)酒莊。群山環(huán)繞酒莊的壯美景觀會(huì)帶來(lái)非凡的寧?kù)o平和之感。

大部分酒莊設(shè)有舒適的中式住宿，讓你處在舒適、整潔、健康的環(huán)境當(dāng)中，能滿足你的一切所需。來(lái)這里旅行三周以上都不會(huì)感到厭煩，在舒適的住宿中休息，周圍葡萄園環(huán)繞，還能享受當(dāng)?shù)氐拿牢都央?。?dāng)?shù)厝藴睾蜆銓?shí)，即使有些不會(huì)講英文，你也仍然能感受到他們的熱情款待。我真心推薦所有喜歡葡萄酒和酒莊的外國(guó)人來(lái)參觀這個(gè)美妙的地區(qū)，還有更多等待你去發(fā)現(xiàn)、去感受。

Come to Enjoy The Amazing of Ningxia Winery

There are many factors that influence a wine region becoming an icon, such as the “Terroir”, environment, soil,variety and people. The climate and soil type are potentially suitable for higher quality wines. At the same time, Chinese wine makers are able to assimilate rapidly and in an incredibly short time, the advice coming from expert abroad.

Wine quality in Ningxia increases year after year. This has been demonstrated during my wine tasting in Ningxia where I had the chance to taste wines from all area of Ningxia surrounding, judging for Gilbert&Gaillard international wine guide with the highest score coming from this region in China. No other wine region in the world got incredible support in term of development from the home state country. I lived in all wine regions in the world and what I saw in Ningxia is something not duplicable in another country. My congratulations to the Chinese Government and Ningxia wine bureau to perfectly work together to develop the Ningxia wine region. The first time that I visited Ningxia in 2013, they didn’t finish building the road to access to the wineries. Today in 2017,it is wonderful going around by car or bicycle from one vineyard to another. The amazing views of the vineyard surrounded by the mountain give you an amazing feeling of comfort and peace.

The majority of wineries have created an amazing Chinese-style accommodation, comfortable, clean and well preserved in the healthy environment. That is all you need. You can travel in the region for more than 3 weeks and you will never feel bored, sleeping in a comfortable accommodation, surrounded by the vineyard and eating delicious local foods. The local people are very gentle and simple, even if some of them do not speak English, you will receive their warm welcome. I kindly suggest to all foreigners that love wine and wineries to visit this amazing region. There is a lot to discover and to fall in love with.

未來(lái)，我對(duì)寧夏抱有更高的期望。而且我相信不久我們會(huì)在世界上頂級(jí)的品酒會(huì)上見(jiàn)到越來(lái)越多產(chǎn)自寧夏的優(yōu)質(zhì)葡萄酒。寧夏葡萄酒潛力巨大，一切只是時(shí)間問(wèn)題。如果有一天，越來(lái)越多的外國(guó)葡萄酒愛(ài)好者來(lái)參觀神奇的寧夏，寧夏的葡萄酒變得和巴羅洛一樣出名，我一點(diǎn)都不會(huì)感到吃驚。（寧夏回族自治區(qū)外國(guó)專家局供圖）

My expectation for Ningxia is very high and I am confident that in the near future we will see more Chinese quality wines from Ningxia present in the most important wine tasting of the world. It is just a matter of time. The potential is already setup in Ningxia. I won’t be surprised if in the future more and more foreigners who are passionate about wine will visit this amazing region, and that Ningxia’s wine will be famous like Barolo.