多元的夏威夷

文、圖／趙瑞雪

○波利尼西亞文化中心的文化表演。Cultural performance at the Polynesian Cultural Center

提起夏威夷，人們通常會想到這是全球知名的旅游勝地。這里的陽光、沙灘以及宜居的氣候令人向往。當你真正來到這個地方，了解它的歷史、體驗當?shù)厝说纳?，就會發(fā)現(xiàn)這些小島讓人印象深刻的地方遠不止陽光、沙灘這樣的自然景觀，更有文化多元性帶來的妙處。

剛來到夏威夷時，我沒有想到會遇到這么多說著“南腔北調(diào)”英語的亞洲人。走在人流中，經(jīng)常傻傻分不清楚哪些是游客，哪些是當?shù)鼐用?。而實際上，你碰到的亞洲人面孔，大多數(shù)是當?shù)氐木用瘛?/p>

在美國，難道不是高加索人是多數(shù)嗎？這個答案在夏威夷肯定是“否”。

盡管是美國的一個州，但是夏威夷不管在地理還是文化方面，都與北美大陸的其他州有很大不同。夏威夷州是美國唯一的群島州，由太平洋中部的132個島嶼組成，也是美國唯一一個沒有任何土地在美洲大陸的州。在美國的各州中，夏威夷州擁有最大的亞裔人口比例。這里是全球民族多元性最顯著的地方之一，在這里，可以說每個民族都是少數(shù)。

學(xué)術(shù)界廣泛認為夏威夷最早的居民是波利尼西亞人，他們在公元300年乘獨木舟來到這里。有學(xué)者通過對文字、語言以及器皿的考證，認為波利尼西亞人來自亞洲。

在歐胡島上的波利尼西亞文化中心（Polynesia Cultural Center）， 可 以通過村民的日常生活，領(lǐng)略包括薩摩亞(Samoa)、斐濟(Fiji)、夏威夷(Hawaii)、大溪地(Tahiti)和湯加(Tonga)等在內(nèi)的數(shù)個太平洋島嶼的文化傳統(tǒng)與風土人情。

我去波西尼亞文化中心時，由于時間關(guān)系，僅僅看到了薩摩亞人的表演。在薩摩亞人的生活習慣里，負責在家里生火燒飯等工作的是男人。他們會鉆木取火、爬椰子樹、用長矛飛快地剝開椰子、擠出新鮮的椰汁等?？吹剿_摩亞人用幾秒鐘爬上一棵20多米高的椰樹，你就不會再站在椰樹下仰望椰子，思考人們怎么將這么高的椰子收入囊中這樣質(zhì)樸的問題了。但當?shù)匾粋€薩摩亞長者也幽默地表示了擔憂，如今很少年輕人愿意練習諸如爬樹、鉆木取火的技能，而他希望這些技能夠傳承下去。

如果時間允許，我很想多去幾次波西尼亞文化中心，領(lǐng)略這里豐富多元的太平洋島國文化。

18世紀末期，歐洲航海家?guī)炜税l(fā)現(xiàn)了夏威夷群島。此后，歐洲商人逐漸來到夏威夷。在18世紀后期至20世紀中期，大批來自中國、日本、韓國和菲律賓的商人和勞工來到夏威夷，利用當?shù)氐恼崽巧庵\生。這些來自各個國家和民族的人將各自的文化和生活習俗帶到了夏威夷，這些文化習俗上的“舶來品”隨著交流貿(mào)易逐漸融入夏威夷當?shù)氐奈幕小?/p>

夏威夷英語就是一個融合發(fā)展的例子。當來自中國、日本、韓國、菲律賓等不同國家和民族的勞工混居在夏威夷，語種之多，每種語言使用人數(shù)之少，使彼此的交流非常困難。然而做生意必須要交流，久而久之就產(chǎn)生了“夏威夷英語”。這種“夏威夷英語”融合了數(shù)個國家語言的特色，在發(fā)音、語法、拼寫等方面都與傳統(tǒng)英語有很大的區(qū)別。

○沒有人不愛夏威夷的海邊。Everybody loves the seaside of Hawaii.

○恐龍灣是夏威夷知名的景點。Dinosaur bay, a famous spot in Hawaii

○夏威夷當?shù)匾矔e辦舞獅活動來慶祝中國農(nóng)歷新年。A lion dance held in Hawaii to celebrate the Chinese New Year

○火奴魯魯迷人的海灘。Charming beaches of Honolulu

我剛到夏威夷時經(jīng)常迷失方向。很多建筑出入口的標示牌上不是標注東西南北，而是寫著“Mauka”或“Makai”的字樣。據(jù)當?shù)厝私榻B，“Mauka”就是典型的夏威夷英語，意思是“山”，就是朝山的方向。這種夏威夷英語每個單詞里的字母都需要發(fā)音，我個人認為這倒有些像漢語拼音的讀法。

夏威夷的多元性也體現(xiàn)在食物、宗教、音樂和生活習俗上。

夏威夷當?shù)厝朔浅Ｏ矚g吃午餐肉（spam）。在這里，幾乎每個超市都能找到午餐肉這樣的食品，通?；?美元就能買到一罐午餐肉。而買一個西紅柿通常需要1.5美元。由于多種民族混居，在這里，很多國家的美食口味非常正宗，諸如中國炒飯和面條、日本壽司和便當、韓國的泡菜、菲律賓的adobo燉菜、葡萄牙的西紅柿、波多黎各的砂鍋菜和特色蛋糕（pasteles）以及夏威夷傳統(tǒng)烤豬肉（kalua）等。

音樂和舞蹈往往被認為是不同文化和語言背景的人都能聽懂的“共通語言”。在夏威夷，草裙舞和尤克里里（Ukulele）也體現(xiàn)了不同民族文化的融合發(fā)展，這里無論男女都跳草裙舞。據(jù)說，最早的原住民在跳草裙舞時，男性只纏著一條腰帶，女性則不著上裝。第一批到達夏威夷的西方傳教士們被這種過分暴露的服裝嚇壞了，頗為性感的舞蹈動作也令他們反感，因此草裙舞被勒令禁止了。后來，一位國王恢復(fù)了這個傳統(tǒng)舞蹈，但要求女性不得裸露上身并穿上長裙。幾個世紀以來，草裙舞的服飾隨人類社會的發(fā)展變化，從無到有，從少到多，服裝從草料到布料，從簡易到繁雜，舞蹈風格也日趨成熟?，F(xiàn)在，草裙舞是夏威夷人歡迎賓客時最常見的表演。

○烤豬肉做的漢堡（Kalua）是夏威夷當?shù)氐拿朗场he roast pork burger (Kalua), a local delicacy in Hawaii

而尤克里里是跳草裙舞時必不可少的樂器。19世紀時，葡萄牙的移民帶著類似小型吉他的樂器——尤克里里來到了夏威夷。這件樂器便逐漸和草裙舞結(jié)合在一起。想象一下，熱情洋溢的草裙舞配上悠揚的尤克里里音樂，會是多么美的場景。

在夏威夷停留的日子里，更多聽當?shù)厝私羞@里“Aloha”州?！癆loha”是夏威夷語，能夠表達“你好”、“再見”和“我愛你”等很多意思。在這里生活久了，便逐漸能體會到“Aloha”不僅僅是一個表示問候、告別或寒暄的詞，這個詞也體現(xiàn)了生活在同一片土地上要懂得尊重他人——這樣一種人際關(guān)系的精髓。這種“Aloha精神”在夏威夷多元化的文化里得到了全方位的展示。

寫到這里，我忍不住抬頭看外面的天空。一場雨過后，檀香山瑪諾阿山谷（Manoa valley）上的天空好似一張巨幅水彩畫。天空西邊，落日穿透烏云投射出刺眼的光芒；天空東邊，厚積的烏云緩緩散開，一道彩虹在烏云中綻放。西邊的晚霞與東邊緩緩擴散的烏云逐漸融合，交織出夏威夷絢麗的色彩。

編輯／王雪芃

When I came to Hawaii, a state of the United States, in August,2017, I never expected to see so many Asians who speak English featured with a great variety of accents.Walking at streets, you can’t judge Asians you meet the residents or tourists. But actually, most Asians you meet here are probably Asian Americans.

Should Caucasians be the majority of a state of America? The answer is absolutely a “No” in Hawaii.

Hawaii is physically and culturally isolated from the United States, even though it is a state. Its unique history makes it one of the most racially diverse places in the world, as there is no majority - everyone is considered a minority.

Hawaii is the only state of America to have Asians as its largest ethnic group.

Scholars say the native Hawaiians are Polynesian settlers who arrived as early as 300 CE. In 1778, Captain James Cook found the Hawaii islands and opened the door for European explorers,traders, and later whalers, as well as disease which reduced the population of native Hawaiians with a great number.Chinese, Japanese, Koreans and Filipinos arrived through the late 18th century to the early 20 century to work on sugar plantations.

I’ve been to the Polynesian Cultural Center once. Located at Oahu island of Hawaii, the center is home to rich heritage of several Pacific island nations including Fiji, Samoa, Tahiti and Tonga.Each nation preserves the culture with its own flavor and appeal.

Due to the tight schedule, I only visited the Samoa, during which I appreciated how Samoa people climbed up coconut tree which is more than 20 meters tall to get coconut, how they get fire from wood, how they use a spear to rapidly open a coconut and how they get coconut water. Anyway, a chief expressed his concern that less young people like learning the skills such as climbing the trees and getting fire from wood. He hopes that the skills can be passed down generation by generation.

As Hawaii has become home to many different ethnic groups over the past 200 years, each ethnic group has been adding individual cultures and customs to local life and these individual cultures and customs have been quickly integrated into Hawaiian society.

○湛藍的天空讓彩虹清晰可見。Beautiful rainbow in a clear blue sky.

Hawaii Pidgin English, a mix of all the group languages including Portuguese, Hawaiian, American English,Cantonese, Japanese, Filipinos, and Koreans is an example.

In Hawaii, when you ask for directions from the locals. They might not tell you directions with words like east, west, north and south, what they will do are possibly pointing to the directions of Mauka which means mountain and Makai which means sea.

The diversity in Hawaii can also be traced in the aspects of food, religion,music and customs.

Hawaiian locals like spam very much. The state might be the largest consumer of spam in the world. Almost every supermarket has spam on shelve.A can of spam usually only costs one dollar, a small size potato usually costs 1.5 dollars.

Spam is just one of many beloved foods in Hawaii, there are different kind of cuisine from different cultures.Residents and tourists in Hawaii have access to Chinese rice and noodle,Japanese sashimi and bento, Korean kimchi, Filipino sweet potatoes and adobo, Portuguese tomatoes and chili peppers, Puerto Rican casseroles and pasteles, American hamburgers and Hawaiian taro and kalua pig.

In terms of music, Hula and ukulele are embraced and shared across ethic groups. Hula, a kind of dance developed by native Hawaiians and ukulele, a musical instrument introduced to Hawaii by Portuguese, go into perfect match at various parties. You can imagine what a nice scene it is in which women present hula while men play ukulele.

Like the most popular Hawaiian word “Aloha” is more than a word of greeting or farewell or a salutation, it is also the essence of relationships in which each person is important to every other person for collective existence, Hawaii values both the individual ethnic group and the entire society of diverse culture.

When I was writing the article in my room, the sky outside is fascinating. In the west, sunlight penetrated through clouds, while in the east, a rainbow appeared as clouds gradually dispersed.The sunlight met with the dispersing clouds, projecting splendid colors which made the sky looked like a painting.