將外賣進(jìn)行到底

說到吃，能讓你眼界大開的不僅僅是藜麥，還有位于印度孟買一家現(xiàn)代化的高效午餐外賣店。相信每個人都曾與外賣打過交道，有人也許還曾在外賣店打過工，送過外賣，但我們要介紹的這一家，可是非一般的外賣店噢 ^-^ Host： Think about how Americans often order pizza delivery. Now， imagine you had an arrangement to deliver lunch to your office every day. Imagine further that everybody in the office received a delivery every day， and so did everybody in the office next door. And imagine that its Indian food.

A system somewhat like this has prevailed for a century in one of the worlds largest cities， Mumbai. Every day in Indias business capital， thousands of delivery men， called *dabbawallahs hand-deliver meals to doorsteps across the city. Elliot Hannon reports from Mumbai on how this traditional service is delivering meals from a 21st century source.

Elliot： For decades， Indian workers have had their lunches delivered， usually from home kitchens. The prices were cheap and the food traditional Indian fare. But thats changing.

主持人：先想一想，我們美國人是怎樣經(jīng)常訂比薩餅，讓商家送貨上門的。好，現(xiàn)在設(shè)想一下你做好安排，把每天的午餐送到你的辦公室；再設(shè)想辦公室里所有的人每天都有午餐送上門，旁邊那間辦公室也如此。好了，再設(shè)想一下午餐是印度食品。

類似這樣的一個體系已經(jīng)在世界上人口最多的城市之一孟買盛行了一個世紀(jì)。在孟買這個印度的商業(yè)之都，每天數(shù)以千計被稱為“達(dá)巴瓦拉”的送餐員親手把一份份午餐送到全市的顧客手上。埃利奧特·漢農(nóng)在孟買向我們講述一家21世紀(jì)的企業(yè)如何運(yùn)作這種傳統(tǒng)的外賣送餐服務(wù)。

埃利奧特：在過去的幾十年里，印度上班族的午餐通常從自家廚房送到辦公室。午餐的價格低廉，都是傳統(tǒng)的印度食物。但這些都在發(fā)生著變化。

Nityanand Shetty （Chef）： This is our main kitchen. Its like a 2，000 ft2 kitchen. This guy is making the South Indian menu. Hes making a 1）beetroot dhosa. Then the other guy is making an egg white omelet over here.

Elliot： Nityanand Shetty is the head chef at Calorie Care， a high-end， health-obsessed delivery joint.

Nityanand： Its a new trend that has been started. Its a traditional dabbawallah， but at a premium kind of a thing， where the customer is conscious about what hes eating； hes not bothered about what price hes paying. So， the delivery chain remains the same， but the food， where it is coming from has changed.

The kitchen starts at night， 11 oclock. The food comes out of the kitchen somewhere around 2， 2：30， 3 oclock. Then the packing guys will start packing their food.

Elliot： Its a complicated process with hundreds of different meals， all with specific calorie counts. Calorie Care relies on software to keep everything straight. After a night of cooking and a morning of packing， each meal is put into a small metal 2）canister， or 3）tiffin， in time for the dabbawallahs pickup.

Nityanand： So when he comes at 9 oclock， everything has to be ready for him because they are on a very tight schedule. The dabbawallahs have a huge network. Thats the whole reason why we still use dabbawallahs. And theyre very effective.

尼蒂揚(yáng)尼·希提（廚師）：這是我們的主廚房，廚房的面積約有兩千平方英尺（約185平方米）。這個人在做南印度菜，他做的是甜菜薄餅，那邊的那個人在煎蛋清餅。

埃利奧特：卡路里飲食是一家專注于健康飲食的高端送餐服務(wù)企業(yè)，尼蒂揚(yáng)尼·希提是這里的主廚。

尼蒂揚(yáng)尼：這是一個開始不久的新趨勢。我們提供的是傳統(tǒng)的達(dá)巴瓦拉送餐服務(wù)，但卻是更優(yōu)質(zhì)高端的服務(wù)，我們的顧客對吃什么很重視，但卻不怎么計較價格。因此，送餐服務(wù)鏈不變，但食物的來源變了。

我們的廚房從晚上11點開始運(yùn)行，食物大概在兩點、兩點半、三點鐘從廚房出來，然后負(fù)責(zé)包裝的人就開始打包食物。

埃利奧特：他們每天要準(zhǔn)備好幾百份各式各樣的午餐，全部都有詳細(xì)的卡路里值，整個過程非常復(fù)雜。電腦軟件幫助卡路里飲食把所有的事情都安排得有條不紊，井然有序。經(jīng)過一個晚上的烹煮和一個上午的裝盒程序，每一份午餐都被放進(jìn)了一個小金屬盒里，準(zhǔn)備好等達(dá)巴瓦拉送餐員來取。

尼蒂揚(yáng)尼：早上九點，他來了，所有午餐都為他準(zhǔn)備好了，因為他們的時間很緊。達(dá)巴瓦拉送餐員是一個龐大的網(wǎng)絡(luò)，我們繼續(xù)用他們也正是基于這個原因，并且他們非常有效率。

Elliot： Right on time， Kishan Palvar arrives for the pickup from Calorie Care. Hes one of 5，000 dabbawallah deliverymen who ferry some 200，000 lunches to offices across the city. The couriers make 500 rupees， or about$10， per person for a month of deliveries. Palvar picks up several dozen lunches here. To make sure each lunch pail ends up at the right place， each container has a 4）hieroglyphic-like coding system painted on the lid.

Kishan： Yeah， code number， yes， 94 M 1.

Elliot： Palvar checks the codes， scoops up his cargo and heads outside to load up. He clips the containers to the handlebars of his bicycle and starts his 45-minute cycle to the train station. At the station， the platform is jammed and so are the trains. Three dabbawallahs haul trays the size of dinner tables from the doorway of a commuter train. Some are transferred to other trains to go to different parts of the city. Lunches can be transferred three or four times before finally ending up on desktops of customers like Arif Bandukwala， who sits in a back office of a packaging plant waiting for his vegetarian entree.

Arif： I get my lunch everyday. Packing a lunch and bringing it， it doesnt serve the purpose. And also what I like about the food is its less of salt， so it suits our appetite.

Elliot： Before he leaves， the delivery man collects yesterdays container and the process starts all over again for tomorrow.

埃利奧特：基尚·帕爾瓦爾準(zhǔn)時來到卡路里飲食取午餐。他是五千名達(dá)巴瓦拉送餐員中的一員，這支送餐員隊伍每天把二十多萬份午餐送到全市不同地方的辦公室里。送餐員每個月會拿到500盧比（大約10美元）的報酬?；袕倪@里取走幾十份午餐。為了讓每一份午餐都能準(zhǔn)確無誤地送到顧客手中，每個餐盒蓋上都寫有像象形文字般的編碼系統(tǒng)。

基尚：是的，編碼，對，94 M 1。

埃利奧特：基尚檢查了一遍編碼，提起他的貨，到外面裝車去了。他把午餐盒夾在自行車的把手上，開始了他耗時45分鐘的路程，向火車站出發(fā)。在車站里，站臺上擁擠不堪，車廂里也一樣。三個送餐員把餐桌大小的餐盒托盤從通勤火車上抬下來，有些午餐會轉(zhuǎn)到其他車上，再送到市里的其他地方。有些午餐可能在轉(zhuǎn)手三四次后，才會最終被送到顧客的辦公桌上。阿里夫·班杜夸拉此時正坐在一個包裝工廠后面辦公室里等著他的素食午餐。

阿里夫：我的午餐每天都會送過來。光是把午餐裝好，送過來，這還不是送餐服務(wù)的全部。我要的食物要少放點鹽，所以他們送來的才合我們的胃口。

埃利奧特：送餐員在離開之前，會收齊前一天送來的午餐盒。明天新一輪的送餐又要從頭開始了。

文化交流站

dabbawallah

在馬拉地語中，達(dá)巴瓦拉意為“送盒子的人”，指在印度孟買從事將剛做好的午飯飯盒從上班族的住家運(yùn)往他們的工作地點，并且將空飯盒帶回來這一行業(yè)的人。Tiffin在舊英語中指“簡單的午餐”，有時也指裝午餐的飯盒。因此，達(dá)巴瓦拉在英語中有時也會被稱為“Tiffin Wallahs”。盡管這個行業(yè)看似簡單，但是它卻是孟買高度專業(yè)的服務(wù)，有超過一個世紀(jì)的歷史，是這個城市文化的一部分。達(dá)巴瓦拉的概念始于英屬印度時期。許多來到殖民地的英國人不喜歡本地食物，因此一項將午餐從他們的家中直接送至工作地點的服務(wù)應(yīng)運(yùn)而生。今天，印度的商務(wù)人士是達(dá)巴瓦拉的主要客戶。