凝聚人心的韃靼美食

By Dave McGuire

Today， were looking for a European country with a small Tatar presence， and now a Tatar restaurant. Tatars， by the way， are Turkic Muslims， and that restaurant is in northeast Poland.

Dave McGuire recently paid a visit to the restaurant chef in the village of Kruszyniany.

Dave： Thats Jenata Bogdanovic in the kitchen of her restaurant. Its in a restored family farmhouse in a tiny village about a mile from the border with Belarus.

今天，我們來找一個有著少量韃靼人口，如今又有了一家韃靼餐廳的歐洲國家。順便說一句，韃靼人是突厥人中的一支，他們是穆斯林教徒，而那家餐廳位于波蘭的東北部。

戴夫·麥圭爾最近到克魯斯查涅尼村拜訪了這家餐廳的主廚。

戴夫：詹納塔·博格達諾維奇正在她餐廳的廚房里。這個小村莊坐落在離波蘭與白俄羅斯接壤邊界線一英里（約1.61公里）處，餐廳就在村里的一幢經過整修的農舍里。

The smell of onion is strong when you enter the kitchen. Jenatas preparing dishes that youd normally only find in a Tatar home. Jenata entered local cooking contests， and she won with a cuisine thats unfamiliar to most Poles. Polish food critics flocked her way and the tourists followed， so Jenata opened a Tatar restaurant， the first in the country， in 2003.

Jenata explains， the central theme of Tatar cuisine is meat， lots of meat； 1）mutton， 2）venison and especially beef. What you wont find here is pork， because Tatars are Muslim. All that meat is packaged in pastry. These are the dishes youd expect from nomadic horsemen. Meat inside dough： easy to carry and eat on the go.

Today Jenata is making pyzy and kuldunai. Pyzy look a bit like small footballs. Theyre dumplings filled with heavily spiced ground meat surrounded by a dough made with raw and cooked potato. She boils them in a beef broth.

一進入廚房，濃烈的洋蔥味撲鼻而來。詹納塔正在烹飪的是你只會在韃靼人家才能看到的家常菜。詹納塔曾經參加了當地的烹飪大賽，她以一道大多數波蘭人都不熟悉的菜在比賽中獲勝。波蘭的美食評論家蜂擁而至，她也因此吸引了不少游客。于是，詹納塔在2003年創(chuàng)辦了波蘭的首家韃靼餐廳。

詹納塔解釋說，韃靼美食的主題就是肉，他們吃大量的肉：羊肉、鹿肉，特別是牛肉。他們的食譜里惟獨缺豬肉，因為韃靼人是穆斯林教徒。韃靼人吃肉的方式是把它們放在面團里。這正是游牧民族吃的方式：用面團包著肉，因為這樣方便攜帶，可以邊走邊吃。

今天，詹納塔做的是皮茲和卡爾敦納這兩道菜。皮茲的樣子有點像個小小的足球，那就是湯團里填滿了重口味的肉沫和生熟混雜的土豆團。她把皮茲放進了牛肉湯里煮。

文化交流站

韃靼是古代中原人對北部國界線境外的各游牧民族的統稱。韃靼民族是突厥人的一支，歐洲人所說的“韃靼人”分廣義和狹義兩個稱謂，廣義是俄國境內使用突厥語各族的統稱，狹義韃靼則指韃靼族。而“韃靼”一詞起源于7世紀到9世紀時在貝加爾湖東南地區(qū)游牧的蒙古部落。今天，全世界共有57支不同的韃靼人，主要分布于中亞、阿富汗、俄羅斯的喀山、烏克蘭的克里米亞和歐洲（波蘭、白俄羅斯、立陶宛、芬蘭）各地。

Kuldunai are a variation on the same theme， but here the meat is put into a purse of pastry dough gathered up like a closed tulip. Jenata says kuldunai is one of her favorite dishes， because her most treasured family memories are of sitting around the kitchen table with her mom and her sisters preparing the food. It was a time to be together， to talk， and a chance to hear her moms stories about the past.

But its not all meat and potatoes. Butter， honey， and flour go into a pot. These are the ingredients for 3）halvah， a traditional Islamic treat. Jenatas enlisted some help for the final stages. The halvahs so thick， two women are stirring together， throwing all their weight into it. Its a dish that takes hours of stirring. The halvah is sweet， but not too sweet， rich and velvety and a little gooey as it cools. This is definitely the kind of food that draws people together. And that kind of community is critical to keep the Polish Tatars aware of their culture. Therere only about 3，000 of them left in the country. Jenata wants her restaurant to be a haven for Tatars. She says Tatar youth around the world can come to her like an aunt to learn about themselves and their history， and find a place to belong.

卡爾敦納與皮茲區(qū)別不大，但這道菜是把肉放在了一個面袋里，這個面袋看起來像一朵合上了口的郁金香。詹納塔說這是她最喜愛的菜肴之一，因為她最為珍惜的家庭記憶就是與母親和姐妹們圍坐在廚房的桌邊，一起準備食物。那是與家人在一起的時間，大家一起交談，聽母親講述她過去的事。

但他們的食物并不都是肉與土豆。把奶油、蜂蜜和面粉放進鍋里，這些是哈爾瓦酥糖的原材料，那是伊斯蘭食譜中的一款傳統點心。詹納塔在制作這款點心的最后階段找了一些人來幫忙。哈爾瓦酥糖太粘稠了，兩個婦女一起攪拌，用盡了全身的力氣。這道甜點光是攪拌就要花上好幾個小時。哈爾瓦酥糖是甜的，但不會太甜，而是口感醇厚，絲滑，涼了之后有點粘粘的。這確實是那種能夠把人都召集在一起的食物，而要讓波蘭的韃靼人時刻意識到自己的文化背景，這種把社區(qū)里的韃靼人聚集到一起的方式是非常重要的。在波蘭，韃靼人口只有三千左右。詹納塔希望自己的餐廳能成為韃靼人的港灣。她說，世界上年輕的韃靼人都可以到她這兒來，把她看成是自家的大嬸，向她了解韃靼人的文化和歷史，找到一個屬于自己的地方。

翻譯：旭文